460 S&W burn spots on cylinder
I have a S&W 460 stainless steel smooth cylinder, 14" fluted barrel and am firing factory ammo. I am getting a burn spot about 1/4" on the outer front edge of the cylinder. Is that normal and how do I clean it?
Thanks
Thanks
0
-
That is a lot of fire comming from that gun, and that should be normal procedure. The way to clean it, is with good old Hoppe's #9, a NYLON brush, and some burlap...what we call elbow grease. Let the solvent sit for an hour or so to soften the fouling.
I will also tell you, that if you try to speed this process up by using harsher chemicals, or more abrasive cleaning utinsils, you will not like the results on the finish of your revolver.
Best0 -
You could ask them as the book doesn't seen to cover it. I would sort of look at it as the blue chrome of a harley pipe. I would suggest that use RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube to grease your pistol.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Category4_750001_750051_757826_-1_757814_757812_image0 -
Flitz metal polish will remove the burn marks pretty quickly. 0 -
I use a Kleen Bore Lead Away cloth to remove powder burns from my 625. Just don't use one on a blue gun. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by alligator123
I have a S&W 460 stainless steel smooth cylinder, 14" fluted barrel and am firing factory ammo. I am getting a burn spot about 1/4" on the outer front edge of the cylinder. Is that normal and how do I clean it?
Thanks
Yes, it normal to get fouling on the front edge of cylinders when you fire revolvers. The problem is worse with magnum revolvers, especially "hyper-magnum" ones like the hand-cannon you've got.
Personally, I don't really see the need to clean this, since it doesn't affect function, and will just re-accumulate every time you take a shot. IMO, "working" guns just need to be "working", they don't need to look like they just came home from the store. (Then again, I don't typically wash my car, either!). I just rub off the actual burned powder, then let it go.
If you do want to clean it, there is more than one way to skin a cat.
TSR's way is probably the "safest". Start with any typical powder solvent (Hoppes, Breakfree-CLP, MPro7, etc), wipe it on, let it soak in a little bit, then scrub with something rough, but softer than steel (toothbrush, rag, brass bristle brush, etc). That should take it off.
This guy is using a scotch brite pad to do it, that will definitely work, though I'd be careful NOT to use it on the OUTSIDE of the gun, because it WILL mark the finish.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSI20nHKZwg
On metal polish, I definitely wouldn't use that on the OUTSIDE of the gun or cylinder, because as TSR says, a metal polish like Flitz will also potentially rub the bead blasted finish smooth too.
For the front of the cylinder. . .eh. . .a little bit once in a while won't hurt anything, especially if you don't rub too hard.0 -
Back a while there was a pump spray of "juice" you sprayed on when the gun was clean (before using). Basically the crap that would build up would just wipe away. Forgot the name but I'm sure it's still out there. 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
6 comments