Ruger GP 100
Has any body had experience with Ruger GP 100, I purchased one to use in security work. But when ejecting empties from the cylinder they don't come out all the way and have to be plucked out by hand. The ejector rod does not seem to eject them all the way. Is there a gun smithing cure for this problem.?
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i also ran across a GP 100 ruger 6 inch stainless steel 357 with adj rear sights.it is in 95% shape.also has rubber gripps.comes with factory grips.what is it worth? THIS GUN LOOKS REAL GOOD..SHOW ROOM NEW.. 0 -
Are you allowing gravity to assist you? You should hold the revolver so that the empties are facing the ground, barrel pointing skyward and give the ejector rod a quick, firm push. That should dump the empties out of the cylinder and onto the ground. You don't want to get in the habit of ejecting the empties into your hand as if you get into a "situation" where you need to quickly reload your revolver, you will revert back to the way you practice and will have a handful of empty cases when the coroner picks up your body.[;)] 0 -
try this: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXUwI_d8JlA
get back to us.
if you're still havign trouble, maybe theres another solution.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Layne12gun
Has any body had experience with Ruger GP 100, I purchased one to use in security work. But when ejecting empties from the cylinder they don't come out all the way and have to be plucked out by hand. The ejector rod does not seem to eject them all the way. Is there a gun smithing cure for this problem.?
No.
There is no way to re-engineer a short ejector rod to give a full throw longer than a cartridge length. To do that, you'd need to switch to a different model gun.
Note that if you use good technique (and it amounts mostly to pointing the gun barrel DOWNWARDS (Edit, UPWARDS. . )while ejecting the empties, then hitting the ejector rod HARD with the other hand) the empties should still pop right out, even with a less than full length ejector rod.
In fact, much of the time, they'll just slide right out of their own weight just when you point the muzzle upwards! (Sometimes this won't happen with HOT magnum loads).
I've never had an issue ejecting empties from a Smith J-frame with its half-length ejector rod using the "point muzzle up" technique.
Edit: This is what happens when you make posts past your bedtime. . .[:p]
As was hopefully clear by the rest of my post ("point muzzle UP technique", etc), I meant to say you point the barrel UPWARDS. . .you strike the ejector rod DOWNWARDS with your hand. . .and gravity will help pull the spent shells out of your cylinder.
Obviously clean chambers help too. If you have trouble seating the cartridges into the chambers to begin with, then of course you're going to have trouble ejecting them later! Ideally the cartridges should slide easily into the chambers with no extra force necessary on your part.
On models 10, those were standard issue for police and military all over the world for 50+ years, and in fact, they STILL are used as such in many places. As always, its more about making sure the rounds you have strike the right place, than what caliber they are or how many.
Personally speaking, my biggest gripe with a model 10 isn't the fact that its a 6-shot .38. I'd still take that over a lot of small autos. Ballistically, a .38+P with a good heavy bullet is probably as good as a 9mm luger, plus the revolver platform itself is idiot-proof , highly reliable, and relatively easy to hit with. My big issue with the old model 10 is just that the rear "gutter" sight isn't that easy to see.0 -
I have to wonder if you have the cylinders really clean. If you have been shooting a lot of .38s, you may have rings in the cylinders that would tend to hold .357s. Mine ejects the brass with no problems, .38 or .357. 0 -
I agree with He Dog. I have had the experience myself where the cylinder gets a ring just to the front of a .38spl cylinder case would be and is hard to eject or sometimes load a longer .357mag cartridge.
Also some ammo such as Blazer with its aluminum cases, or even some higher pressure magnum rounds may be harder to eject because of the expansion of the cases.
Clean the heck out of the chamber cylinders. Use lots and lot of solvent and lots of brushing.0 -
Great advice has been given. Make sure your revolver is clean, and DO NOT BABY it. Slap that ejector rod, to clear the cylinder.
Best0 -
quote:Originally posted by He Dog
I have to wonder if you have the cylinders really clean. If you have been shooting a lot of .38s, you may have rings in the cylinders that would tend to hold .357s. Mine ejects the brass with no problems, .38 or .357.
This is what I am thinking. My GP-100 needs the cyclinder cleaned real good after I have been shooting alot of .38's & start shooting .357 mag.
I find that after shooting alot of specials the mags don't fall all the way in the cyclinder by themselves and need a little help seating.
I use a plastic brush with the twisted wire handle to clean it. I cut the loop of the end of the handle to chuck in a cordless drill. Let the cyclinder soak with bore cleaner and give it some revolutions with the drill.0 -
quote:Originally posted by beantownshootah
quote:Originally posted by Layne12gun
Has any body had experience with Ruger GP 100, I purchased one to use in security work. But when ejecting empties from the cylinder they don't come out all the way and have to be plucked out by hand. The ejector rod does not seem to eject them all the way. Is there a gun smithing cure for this problem.?
No.
There is no way to re-engineer a short ejector rod to give a full throw longer than a cartridge length. To do that, you'd need to switch to a different model gun.
Note that if you use good technique (and it amounts mostly to pointing the gun barrel DOWNWARDS while ejecting the empties, then hitting the ejector rod HARD with the other hand) the empties should still pop right out, even with a less than full length ejector rod.
In fact, much of the time, they'll just slide right out of their own weight just when you point the muzzle upwards! (Sometimes this won't happen with HOT magnum loads).
I've never had an issue ejecting empties from a Smith J-frame with its half-length ejector rod using the "point muzzle up" technique.
Seriously?? Hold the muzzle pointing at the ground, then hit the ejector??? You are working AGAINST gravity to clear your revolver of empties. I guess all of my instructors at the police academy were trying to get us young coppers killed when they showed us how to empty our model 10's![;)][:0]
Here is a video of Clint Smith doing a revolver reload, this is the way we were trained in Philadelphia. Is this the only correct way? probably not, but it worked for me.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbcyAKoQZrs
I never felt outgunned with my model 10. I practiced all the time and could hit fast and accurately with it. When you only have six rounds, you tend to make each shot count. There is no spray and pray with a revolver.[;)]
There was a story many years ago about a Florida Highway Patrol Officer who pulled over a couple of dope dealers. They both jumped out of their car and started spraying bullets, gangstah style towards the officer with mac-10 look alikes, the trooper was armed with a 6 shot wheelgun but he stayed cool and popped both bad guys, ending the confrontation. Winning a gunfight is all about training and focus. Software (your brain) versus hardware.0 -
quote:Originally posted by CS8161
quote:Originally posted by beantownshootah
quote:Originally posted by Layne12gun
Has any body had experience with Ruger GP 100, I purchased one to use in security work. But when ejecting empties from the cylinder they don't come out all the way and have to be plucked out by hand. The ejector rod does not seem to eject them all the way. Is there a gun smithing cure for this problem.?
No.
There is no way to re-engineer a short ejector rod to give a full throw longer than a cartridge length. To do that, you'd need to switch to a different model gun.
Note that if you use good technique (and it amounts mostly to pointing the gun barrel DOWNWARDS while ejecting the empties, then hitting the ejector rod HARD with the other hand) the empties should still pop right out, even with a less than full length ejector rod.
In fact, much of the time, they'll just slide right out of their own weight just when you point the muzzle upwards! (Sometimes this won't happen with HOT magnum loads).
I've never had an issue ejecting empties from a Smith J-frame with its half-length ejector rod using the "point muzzle up" technique.
Seriously?? Hold the muzzle pointing at the ground, then hit the ejector??? You are working AGAINST gravity to clear your revolver of empties. I guess all of my instructors at the police academy were trying to get us young coppers killed when they showed us how to empty our model 10's![;)][:0]
They might have been trying, by just issuing you model 10's0 -
Hey Layne,
RUGER GP100s work much the way that BTS (& others) have described, but I have yet to see a Model 10 S&W GP100 that accepted or ejected anything as wild and wooly as a .357 Magnum.
Maybe they weren't thinking specifically of the over-engineered RUGER line of revolvers like the SP101, GP100, the Six Series (Speed, Service, Security, etc.).
If you decide to spin anything in your chambers; try a dab of JB Bore Paste on a tight-fitting patch first. This stuff will polish out any rings, dings or other things left from shooting 38s, 380s or whatever caused your empties to hang up in the first place.
ALSO- if you use handloads made by someone other than yourself in your gun; be exceedingly cautious when loading, shooting and unloading them, because you have no idea what happened to 'em before you got 'em.0
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