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16 comments

Date Votes
  • jonk
    While 4350 doesn't strictly NEED magnum primers, it IS a slow burner and they should be fine. I'd go with 168 gr data if you can't find 165, and if you start nearing the max load watch for pressure signs due to the hotter primer.
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  • Toolfogie
    165 GR. HDY GMX IMR IMR 4350 .308" 3.225"
    52.0 2546 46,700 PSI
    56.6 2770 58,200 PSI

    165 GR. SIE SPBT IMR IMR 4350 .308" 3.300"
    56.0 2746 48,100 PSI
    60.0C 2934 57,600 PSI

    http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp
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  • Pistollero1050
    Sounds like you got everything ya need, let'r rip.
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  • charliemeyer007
    It would be nice to know what rifle you are shooting your reloads in.
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  • JustC
    start low, especially since you have magnum primers.
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  • Alan Rushing
    woodshed87 - sounds as though you'll be going into productions soon ... bravo! [:)]

    IMR 4350 is one of several powders that I've used. I've loaded near everything that I shoot with it at one time or another. To me it's a steady.

    (Not faulting anybody, nor their powder choices ... but it has met my needs and wants in the past quite well.) [;)]
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  • Okie743
    What is the make and model of you 06?
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  • woodshed87
    It is a Savage 111 19 Years old As Pictured below
    When You say Start Low ... How Much lower?
    or Should I Just Go with the Specs And Get different Primers (correct ones)
    100_2006.jpg
    http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=273491363
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  • charliemeyer007
    Nice rifle and pic. The Sav 110 is a tough gun. I don't know the 111. You should get a loading book or two. Brass make/type and the primer along with the powder and bullet make the load. Start with the brass, I like to work with at least 50 of the same stuff. Trim to length, champher, deburr the flash hole, clean the primer pocket. Regular primers would be my choice.
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  • JustC
    when I say low, I mean at the lower end of the published load data, since those primers may/may not cause some pressure issues prior to the book maximum. Honestly. I would just buy LR primers and be done with it.
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  • Topkick
    I have read many times that you can use magnum primers just fine- with a 10% reduction in the powder charge.

    Check for yourself and don't take my word for it though.

    And as stated earlier, work on the low end of the spectrum regarding your charge.
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  • Rocky Raab
    Ideally, you should use the load recipe exactly as printed in the manual. But even that doesn't guarantee identical results, which is why we always begin with the START loads.

    Swapping component types is a bit trickier if you don't have a chronograph, but as long as you don't notice a pronounced change in primer appearance or bolt lift, or the sudden appearance of ejector hole smearing on the headstamp you should be fine. (If you do see any of those things appear as you work up, you have already gone too far.)
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  • guntech59
    I have been reloading for 6 years...I still do a LOT more listening and reading that I do talking or typing.

    It is really easy to do, Roger. Confidence will come with a little experience.

    Get a couple of manuals (I started with Speer and Sierra) and use the Hodgdon website. Read the hell out of the manuals. I had mine for a couple of months before I actually tried to do any loading.
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  • Okie743
    You say you are new at this!

    You really need to spend a few dollars more and get large rifle NON-Magnum primers and refer to a reloading manual or on-line recommended load data from Hogdons using your IMR4350 powder and you could be pleasantly surprised by the inherent accuracy of your 06 when testing your reloads. start at the low end of powder grains and test fire 5 shots at 80-100 yards, then load 5 more at 1 grain more (using the 4350) and I usually stop testing at about 1 gr below max. When I seen promising accuracy from a load I re-test and watch the first shot cold barrel load to see if it's a winner. I then sometimes load .5 (1/2 gr) above and below the accuracy load to see if YOU can fine tune or too see how critical accuracy is for powder weight changes, etc. Keep count of your reload times on the hulls and I always discard 06 hulls before the 3rd length trimming and you can really extend the life of 30 06 brass by neck sizing only.

    Sometimes you can really keep the accuracy tuned by weighing your brass and keep the brass weight within about 5 grains weight, for example 155-160 gr. If you mix up nonmatched weight brass this has the almost same accuracy effect as varying your powder weights. due to internal volume changes in pressures. I've found that deburring (uniforming) the primer holes inside the case is another step that is worthwhile. Usse the Lyman or RCBS primer pocket uniformer. The lyman is a good one and fits most all brass from 22cal to large calibers without adapters.

    You will also be pleasantly surprised by how much the felt recoil is reduced on a 06 shooter by using the 150 gr bullets vs 180gr bullets and usually still achieve real good accuracy. by good accuracy I'm referring to 1 1/4 inch group average or better at 100 yards for a hunting rifle, starting with acold barrel first shot shooting 3 shot group strings)

    Welcome to the reloading world! You will find if you enjoy shooting and accuracy tuning, reloading can be a good thing and additive as well as rewarding. (almost as additive as Spring Turkey hunting)
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  • FrancF
    Personally- I would like to see you run new standard CCI large rifle primers out of the get go and fresh powder. Not saying older stuff will not work. Load data changes with powder/primer formulation.

    Just want you to have a safe experience first time out.

    Also- the people here are top notch, so don't take it the wrong way.[:D] Just want you to start fresh from scratch till Ya got a handle on it.

    Bet most will agree.
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  • Okie743
    Originally posted by FrancF
    Personally- I would like to see you run new standard CCI large rifle primers out of the get go and fresh powder. Not saying older stuff will not work. Load data changes with powder/primer formulation.

    Just want you to have a safe experience first time out.

    Also- the people here are top notch, so don't take it the wrong way.[:D] Just want you to start fresh from scratch till Ya got a handle on it.

    Bet most will agree.


    Right on. (not that costly to start with NEW powder, primers and brass for a 06) At least start learning from using new powder, primers, and new brass or brass that you KNOW is once fired. (do not buy what is said to be once fired brass) OLD bad powder can really ruin your reloading experience. (the sniff test don't always prove it's a GOOD batch)
    I've actually proved couple of reloading experiences to being old detoriated powder and a novice would most likly would have thought it was his gun or went back to factory rounds.
    Test and use your old powder for practice rounds, etc, after you get your gun tuned with the new stuff. I also research how to read the date codes on the containers when buying powder and I don't buy powder from the stores that weighs from a bulk container and places the powder into a paper bag for customers.
    You should start with fresh powder and primers. CCI BR2 (bench rest) or CCI200 would be CCI large rifle and H4350 or IMR4350. I somewhat prefer H4350 as it seems little less critical of the grains weight vs accuracy and compared to the IMR4350.
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