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13 comments

  • SP45
    different. tru oil has a hardner.
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  • Junkballer
    quote:Originally posted by SP45
    different. tru oil has a hardner.
    Thanks, so other than that they're the same. [:)]
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  • MIKE WISKEY
    TRU OIL WILL GIVE A 'HARDER' FINISH THAN TUNG OIL (HARDER TO SCRATCH)
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  • Junkballer
    Thanks for the replys, I just was'nt sure which I wanted to use. [:)]
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  • Pelican
    Linseed will give a nice finish also. Have to be careful with the rags you use though, it will spontaneously combust (personal experience).

    Pel
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  • Junkballer
    Pelican, thanks, LOL, that brings up another question I meant to ask, what is the difference in linseed and boiled linseed ? Again thanks for any replys. [:)] Quess you know I'm planning to do !
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  • 45er
    Howdy junkballer,

    If recall, (been years), Truoil by Birchwood Casey leaves quite a shine. Which can be, when throughly dried, buffed down with ultra-smooth finishing sand paper, or 0000 steelwool, both which I go over with a tack cloth after. As stated, a good, hard finish.

    Tung oil seals the wood pores, linseed does not. Both give near the same appearance when dry.

    Boiled linseed is processed to dry faster-- go with it, if decide on linseed. And yes, still suseptable to combustion, the rags. But tung is a good bet, too. I like both.



    45er
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  • givette
    Post WWII military wood used tung oil. It will take a back seat to none other for military firearms.

    Linseed oil? Okay, if you want the real thing in an '03, or Krag, or whatever.

    I have found tung oil easier in the application.

    Just hang your rags on the back fence or sumsuch after you are done.

    Hi gloss civvy-type finish? Then use Tru Oil.

    Best, Joe
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  • WinMike
    First time I used linseed oil, I think it took about 2 weeks to dry between coats [|)]

    Then I learned about boiled linseed. Much faster drying time. In my limited experience,it seems like the stocks I've finished with boiled linseed or tung oil both have a deeper finish than Tru Oil and similar products, i.e., minor scratches only have to be rubbed out, not refinished.
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  • oneoldsap
    There are far better products out there than the 2 you mentioned ! I have been using Pro-Custom oil from Brownells for several years now , which is a urethane modified Tung oil . The Danish wipe on finishes look nice and are quite rugged , from what I hear . I also use Spar urethane now and then too , very weather and wear resistant ! Mask off the checkering before applying finish , you don't want to fill it with finish .
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  • WinMike
    well.....I'll admit I'm an old guy [:D]
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  • Junkballer
    A (BIG) thanks for all the info, very helpful [:)]
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  • charliemeyer007
    I really like LinSpeed.
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