Any Luger Experts? Pics
hi i just bought this luger and really do not know too much about them. can anyone tell me what i have here. numbers appear to be matching. says "gesichfrt" next to safety. serial # is 2058. gun is in nice condition. probaly 80% anyways. bore is good. any idea on age and approximate value would be helpful. thanks.
scott
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
scott
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]
0
-
I used to collect Lugers and still have two or three reference books but am certainly not best qualified to answer. The parts numbers are in the military locations and I believe it is from the late 1930's production. There should be a date number or code on the receiver ring and a code or name on the toggle link indication which factory produced. Since a date on the receiver would have told you the date of manufacture I suspect it is a G (1935) or K (1934)date. Those are fine photos and at least a couple more will be very helpful in answering your questions. Photos of the pistol from above showing toggle and receiver ring will be most helpful. From the photos I would say the metal finish and grips are original. A photo of the bottom of the magazine would be of value also. 0 -
thanks for the insight. the pin on the rear of the slide or cocking mechanism has the number 61.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]0 -
Please add a picture of top of the toggle in the closed position and the receiver, showing the markings on both. 0 -
The grips don't look original to me. The amount of wear seen on the grips should be reasonably comparable to that seen on the wooden base of the mag.
Puzzling to me that you would post quality photos of the Luger and ask for valuation help? With out providing photos of the top surface and front of frame beneath barrel. Which are the two most important areas for positive identification and valuation.
EDIT #1, Still need photo of front of frame under barrel to verify frame serial number.
As it stands you have a "G" date luger made in 1935. Rust and mismatched part detracts from value. I would call it value wise $800 to $1,000 even with these problems.0 -
It says GESICHERT = SAFE. Wooden base mag suggests pre ww2.As already stated tho photos of top of gun needed 0 -
here are some pics on top. thanks for your help.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]0 -
A G date Parabellum is a nice addition to a collection. It was made in 1935. In '36, Mauserwerk dated them with numbers on the top instead of letters. It's a good one to have, but the mag is wrong for that year. 0 -
take the grips off and then soak the entire pistol in Kano Kroil It would be better if you can strip the pistol to all separate pieces but If you don't know how to do that get all areas wet with Kroil then wrap in paper towels wet the paper towels and store it all in a plastic Zip lock barrel for 24-48 hours then go to cleaning section of a Grocery store and get Brass /copper Pot scrubbers brand is "CHORE BOY" with gun wet with KROIL scrub with pot scrubber the gun may turn copper color but this will wipe off with oily rag . the copper pad will not damage the bluing that is not already damaged. DO NOT USE ANY GRADE OF STEEL WOOL a Luger of this vintage is RUST blued and this is very thin and easy to damage. You can make your pistol LOOK MUCH BETTER using this method to remove loose rust. 0 -
Sage advice from Perry Shooter. BUT, if you don't have a set of hollow ground screwdrivers to remove the grip screws, DON'T EVEN GET STARTED. Either find a friend who does have the right screwdriver, or pay a gunsmith to take it apart for you.
Value depends to a large extent on the condition of the bore & the breech. One person's "good" is another's "rusty sewer pipe"; we need something more definitive, such as "mirror bright bore with no rust or pits".
You might want to work on your photo technique; some of your pics are either out of focus, or the single light source washes out the details. I use a fluorescent shop light for fill lighting, & hold it just out of picture range.
If it cleans up well, & there is no damage from corrosive ammo, I think it may turn out to be worth > $1,000.
Neal0 -
quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
take the grips off and then soak the entire pistol in Kano Kroil It would be better if you can strip the pistol to all separate pieces but If you don't know how to do that get all areas wet with Kroil then wrap in paper towels wet the paper towels and store it all in a plastic Zip lock barrel for 24-48 hours then go to cleaning section of a Grocery store and get Brass /copper Pot scrubbers brand is "CHORE BOY" with gun wet with KROIL scrub with pot scrubber the gun may turn copper color but this will wipe off with oily rag . the copper pad will not damage the bluing that is not already damaged. DO NOT USE ANY GRADE OF STEEL WOOL a Luger of this vintage is RUST blued and this is very thin and easy to damage. You can make your pistol LOOK MUCH BETTER using this method to remove loose rust.
Just so there's absolutely no confusion:
Perry Shooter means 'Wet The Paper Towels With Kroil'...not water!
What Nmyers says..absent the correct screw-drivers, you can take a knife-blade, and place the cutting-edge of the blade into the grip screw-slots, and then lever the screws off. Be careful to not allow any of the blade to come in contact with the wooden grips. Do not place the knife-point into the slots....use the flat side of the knife's cutting edge.
Do Not make the attempt to loosen the grip screws if you have any doubt or question about the [procedure in paragraph immediately above].
Best, Joe
Best, Joe0 -
Mixed parts pistol not 85%. Toggle assy is a mismatch by S/N.
Barrel carries frame S/N but "tuning fork" carries a different S/N leading me to believe it was a German rebuild. The safety S/N matches tuning fork S/N tends to confirm a rebuild.
If tuning fork is mismatch then pistol can't be I.D.d by receiver code.
Nazi period should carry eagle proofs.
Having imperial frame proofs may mean it's a WW1 pistol.0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
11 comments