Hard Bolt Closure - 300 Weatherby Resized Cases

January 15, 2012 13:54

I picked up a 700 Remington Classic in 300 Weatherby last week that has had few if any rounds fired. I don't have any factory rounds on hand but have been trying to reload some once fired Weatherby brass today with new RCBS dies. Resized once and couldn't close the bolt. I set the die deeper in the press and can now close the bolt but it is hard to do. I've run in to comparable problems before with non-belted calibers where the die wasn't set to push the shoulder back far enough. However, in this case the die base is solidly against the shell holder, plus 1/4 or more turn, and I'm giving the press lever about all the pressure it, and I, can take. The case goes in the rifle chamber but it is still very hard to close the bolt. Any advice will be much appreciated.

Just resizing the brass so far. No primer, bullet, or powder. Do not plan to crimp though.

Thanks to all for the recommendations. To answer the questions: Cases are Weatherby and I'm sure they are once fired but not in this rifle. Checked case length and they are 2.821 to 2.825 which should be ok. Lube is Hornady spray case lube. Shell holder is RCBS. Dies are new and look fine to me. No brass build up on the bolt face; looks very clean as in unfired or fired very little. I'll check the bolt/receiver locking lugs to be sure all is clean. Bolt closes very hard but once closed can easily be raised and then easily closed again. But if take case out of chamber and reload, then is is hard to close again. Guess a trip to the gun shop is in order to try a new factory load and have the gunsmith take a look.

Ambrose, yes, that is correct. Load the case, push bolt handle down HARD and bolt closes. Then lift bolt and close again, no problem, feels normal. Open bolt, case seems to extract normally, reinsert same case and bolt is again very hard to close.

Comments

13 comments

5mmgunguy

January 15, 2012 16:33
Are you crimping the bullets?
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76k20

January 15, 2012 17:57
Have you checked the case length? Might need to trim.

Are you saying that you sized the cases, and they wouldn't chamber correctly, so you resized the sized cases?

What manufacture of brass? Are you certain it is once-fired?

Dies are new, did you disassemble/clean them prior to use? Everything look okay with the dies? What case lube?

I know that 300 Wby ammo is expensive, but I would get a box and see how the factory rounds chamber in the rifle. If the factory rounds chamber hard, it is most likely something with the rifle, and not the cases/dies.
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charliemeyer007

January 15, 2012 18:01
Is your shell holder the same brand as your dies? You might check the bolt face for brass build up. Also clean the recesses for the locking lugs in the reciever. Last check the case length sometimes even once fired brass is too long.
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CapnMidnight

January 15, 2012 19:57
Another vote for checking overall case lenth. What kind of case lube?
I use Hornady Unique Case lube, I put a little dab on a Q tip and lube the inside of the case neck. This helps your press work easier.
All of the advice you've been given is good, check everything.
W.D.
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Okie743

January 16, 2012 04:24
I've seen this happen when the brass was fired in another gun that had excessive headspace and the brass case head stretchs between the belted rim and the head of the case. This area is not re-sized in a belted magnum die.

I think maybe a company makes a die for such for approx $80, but not sure as this area would be hard to re-size due to the solid web area of the brass.

I would also try a NEW brass hull or factory ammo and if still tight have the gun checked by a competent gunsmith even if a new gun just to make sure all is normal before firing a round!
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dcs shooters

January 16, 2012 06:21
quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
Is your shell holder the same brand as your dies? You might check the bolt face for brass build up. Also clean the recesses for the locking lugs in the reciever. Last check the case length sometimes even once fired brass is too long.

Try another shell holder. A friend had the same problem with 223, I think. He took his shell holder and put it in his lathe and took a few thousnads off the face to get the shoulder back some.
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Ambrose

January 16, 2012 15:58
Do I understand correctly that once you close the bolt on a case the bolt raises and lowers easily but if you remove and then replace the SAME case the bolt is hard to close again? If that's so, then there must be a problem with the extractor. I've never heard of that with a 700, but there must be something wedged behind that extractor preventing it from over-riding the case rim.

EDIT: You could check for an extractor problem with any of several belted magnum cases like a 7mm Rem. Mag. or .300 Win. Mag.--you do not necessarily need a .300 Weatherby case.

EDIT II: I do not think your problem is with your cases or the way you're resizing them. I believe the extractor is not moving aside as freely as it needs to in order to over-ride the case rim. The case would, of course, extract normally even so. Are you getting scars on your case rim where the extractor might be gouging it? If so, the extractor should be removed and its recess checked for foreign matter. That will require a tool that most of us do not have. (Read gunsmith trip!) The only other thing I can think of that my be causing your problem is an almost impossibly heavy plunger ejector spring.
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charliemeyer007

January 16, 2012 17:05
I have a Carl Gustaf in 7mm RMag and it really like Norma brass but last 200 I got Weatherby brand marked made by norma. You should try the fit with factory Rem or Win ammo. I always have best results with new brass for my guns, used stuff bring out these sort of problems.
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Okie743

January 17, 2012 02:03
quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
I have a Carl Gustaf in 7mm RMag and it really like Norma brass but last 200 I got Weatherby brand marked made by norma. You should try the fit with factory Rem or Win ammo. I always have best results with new brass for my guns, used stuff bring out these sort of problems.

used stuff bring out these sort of problems.Very true. I don't buy brass that is SAID TO BE once fired, especially MAGNUM brass. I only use once fired brass unless I witness it being once fired
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v35

January 18, 2012 19:45
Put bluing or black marker on the case as well as the base and top and bottom of the belt and repeat the problem.
The blacking will be removed in the problem area.
The belt could be expanded or not concentric to the resized case or the bolt face may not be perpendicular to the case body.
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243winxb

January 21, 2012 17:00
Buy new brass or get this die. Check out the website, many tips on loading the belted magnums.
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v35

January 22, 2012 10:40
That die sizes right up to the belt but doesn't address the concentricity or expansion of the belt.
Do the blackening job and see where it is rubbing off. That will focus you on the problem.
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Okie743

January 22, 2012 13:55
A easy and user friendly way to blacken a empty brass case for checking is too take a propane cigarette lighter and hold the bright polished case at the very tip of the flame for a few seconds and the case will blacken easily.

This is also a easy way for adjusting a die for see how much you are acutally sizing the NECK only of a case!

I would try a new case first! It's a little strange that the case will load OK once then when you simply lift the bolt and attempt to re-close it's tight. (per your first post)

Have you found the problem YET????
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