grinding butt plate / finishing how to's
Hope someone can offer how to's, just got disc sander and tried first plastic butt plate, using 220 grit (aluminum oxide) discs. Sander is 9", grinds fast, finish is rough, if I go to finer grits, say 300, 400 or so, will it finish so no polishing is needed? Any help or how to much appreciated. (Grinding plastic butt plates, haven't tried rubber pads yet. Thanks, Slimnjim
0
-
Unless you have a butt plate mounting fixture that Brownells sells for gunsmiths your angling for a major fail.
Could try layers of masking tape around base of stock though. If you very carefully grind down to the tape, then finish it with a Dremel it might come out OK.0 -
Layers of tape works. I used this tool at a friends shop and would never want to free hand one again. Too fine a grit with too slow of movement leads to burning/melting. Score some junk stocks/pads at a gunshow and practice on them. You can read and watch vidio's all you want but it's actual practice that will build the skill.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=44670/Product/RECOIL-PAD-FITTING-JIG0 -
have also found it best to grind pads from rubber to mounting plate as reverse can actually separate the rubber from the plate. 0 -
When fitting pads or plastic butt plates, I install them and wrap the wood at the joint with electricians tape. Over lap the joint about half way and put several wraps on. Use a disc grinder and remove excess material from the pad. Stop grinding at a point where the disc starts to cut the tape. After getting as smooth as possible, with a mill smooth file, wipe the plastic with a rag dipped in acetone. It will smooth and shine the plate. 0 -
I install the pad. Scribe around the butt onto the pad. Remove and sand off the excess to just outside the scribed line w/a belt sander. Then tape stock, reattach and work the pad down flush as described above. 0 -
I know you are using the fine grit paper for a better finish but I found the a coarser grit will work better. fine paper clogs and burns. if you have problems try 120 grit. with thick soft pads I use 80 grit. as stated trying to grind the correct angle without a fixture can be difficult. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
Layers of tape works. I used this tool at a friends shop and would never want to free hand one again. Too fine a grit with too slow of movement leads to burning/melting. Score some junk stocks/pads at a gunshow and practice on them. You can read and watch vidio's all you want but it's actual practice that will build the skill.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=44670/Product/RECOIL-PAD-FITTING-JIG
That's the fixture I use mounted on a Grizzly 5hp 12" disc. I also use a technique similar to what Fatstrat described.
I have yet to see a butt or plate/pad that had a truly flat mating surface. You will want to first grind them true on a belt sander.
Be cautious with the butt stock as excess heat will damage the finish.
Apply one layer of 2" masking tape around the butt to protect the finish. Mount the plate/pad and scribe around the plate/pad. Remove the plate and apply a bright colored lacquer stick or lipstic to the scribe line and wipe away excess. Mount plate/pad to the grinding fixture and adjust per instructions included with the fixture matching either toe line or heel line. I have found that with pads it is best to place the pad/fixture in the freezer to stiffen the pad which aids in eliminating stretch and tear.
If you are using PSA (pressure sensite adhesive) discs you may want to acquire one or two extra platens. You can then change grits without wasting a disc.
I coarse grind with 220 grit.
You want to grind Down To the colored scribe line Without removing it. If need be readjust fixture and again grind Down To the line on the remainder of the pad.
Remember, you have the width of the scribe line Plus the width of the masking tape left to remove.
I final grind with 480 grit.
Final grind takes a steady hand and Very good lighting as you are goint to remove Just the colored scribe line.
You still have the width of the tape to remove.
For final Sand I use a dead flat hardwood block with a sheet of 600 grit glued to the face. A lubricant such as mineral oil can be helpful.
This is done by hand off the stock and is solely to remove any minute high spots that may be present and smooth up grinding marks.
edit(forgot to mention)
You will want to seal any bare wood on the mounting surface prior to final installation of the plate/pad.
Lastly, mount up your freshly done plate/pad.0 -
I was told to hand sand with wet dry paper and a drop of lemon oil for the final finish. 0 -
I use chalk and sand a little off onto the back of the pad and then I sweep it into my score mark so I can see the line better.
quote:Originally posted by asphalt cowboy
quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
Layers of tape works. I used this tool at a friends shop and would never want to free hand one again. Too fine a grit with too slow of movement leads to burning/melting. Score some junk stocks/pads at a gunshow and practice on them. You can read and watch vidio's all you want but it's actual practice that will build the skill.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=44670/Product/RECOIL-PAD-FITTING-JIG
That's the fixture I use mounted on a Grizzly 5hp 12" disc. I also use a technique similar to what Fatstrat described.
I have yet to see a butt or plate/pad that had a truly flat mating surface. You will want to first grind them true on a belt sander.
Be cautious with the butt stock as excess heat will damage the finish.
Apply one layer of 2" masking tape around the butt to protect the finish. Mount the plate/pad and scribe around the plate/pad. Remove the plate and apply a bright colored lacquer stick or lipstic to the scribe line and wipe away excess. Mount plate/pad to the grinding fixture and adjust per instructions included with the fixture matching either toe line or heel line. I have found that with pads it is best to place the pad/fixture in the freezer to stiffen the pad which aids in eliminating stretch and tear.
If you are using PSA (pressure sensite adhesive) discs you may want to acquire one or two extra platens. You can then change grits without wasting a disc.
I coarse grind with 220 grit.
You want to grind Down To the colored scribe line Without removing it. If need be readjust fixture and again grind Down To the line on the remainder of the pad.
Remember, you have the width of the scribe line Plus the width of the masking tape left to remove.
I final grind with 480 grit.
Final grind takes a steady hand and Very good lighting as you are goint to remove Just the colored scribe line.
You still have the width of the tape to remove.
For final Sand I use a dead flat hardwood block with a sheet of 600 grit glued to the face. A lubricant such as mineral oil can be helpful.
This is done by hand off the stock and is solely to remove any minute high spots that may be present and smooth up grinding marks.
edit(forgot to mention)
You will want to seal any bare wood on the mounting surface prior to final installation of the plate/pad.
Lastly, mount up your freshly done plate/pad.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Fatstrat
I install the pad. Scribe around the butt onto the pad. Remove and sand off the excess to just outside the scribed line w/a belt sander. Then tape stock, reattach and work the pad down flush as described above.
And when you do this, put the pad in the freezer for a while before grinding... re-freeze as needed.0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
10 comments