Savage 110 in 22-250 Accuracy Question
Have a Savage Model 110 in 22-250 (Serial F0564XX) with a 22-in barrel that I bought off GB several years ago. It has never had superior accuracy (typically 3-in groups at 100 yards (should be much better down to 1/2 in groups). I have standardized the ammo to take different bullet weights/powders/ammo brands, etc out of the equation. I have meticulously gone through the scope zeroing process (Bushnell 6 x 18)with no improvement. I allow barrel to cool between shots for 2-3 minutes, so that should not be a factor.
Question: Is it common for a 22-250 barrel with 3600-4000 fps to be "shot out"? Is it difficult for a smith to determine if the barrel is "shot out?". Should I look at getting an upgrade on glass? Thats opening a can of worms. I could get better glass and still have an accuracy issue.
Just looking for some ideas/suggestions before I delve off into this. Thanks in advance!
Question: Is it common for a 22-250 barrel with 3600-4000 fps to be "shot out"? Is it difficult for a smith to determine if the barrel is "shot out?". Should I look at getting an upgrade on glass? Thats opening a can of worms. I could get better glass and still have an accuracy issue.
Just looking for some ideas/suggestions before I delve off into this. Thanks in advance!
0
-
Bob,
Glass will make a difference, ya get what ya pay for, so to speak.
I don't think that is the source of your problem though. I would take it to a competent gun smith and have him use a bore scope to check the barrel. See if the throat is erroded, also have the smith check the barrel crown. If the crown isn't right, or has a ding, it won't shoot.
Three to four thousand rounds of 22-250 can put quite a bit of wear on a barrel, that is where I would look first. Like I said find a good smith that has a reputation for making guns shoot straight.
Good luck,
W.D.0 -
Bill -- Thanks! Should have just sent you an email............ 0 -
The Capn, has given you a good starting point. Also check the torque on the bolts that hold your barreled action in the stock, and all of your scope base/ring/ring cap screws.
I don't care for the scope either, and you might want to swap it out if you have another on something else, just to check. Had a friend with a Tikka Super Varmint in 22-250, that had a nikon Buckmaster 6-18x40 go bad. Couldnt hardly keep it on the paper. Swapped it out and it was cutting sub 1/2 inch groups at 200 yards.
Best0 -
Shot a 110E in 30-06 a lot. Handloads or factory it did about 2 or 3 inch groups and we shot the snot outa that rifle. Very stout action. 0 -
By "standardizing" the ammo, you may have compromised your accuracy potential. The rifle may be more sensitive to certain ammo types and therefore just doesn't "like" the ammo your chose.
Last fall I did a scope check on an older Savage 110 22/250. Firing one round each of PMC 55 grain BTHP,Remington 55 SP, and a handload using the Remington 55 grain SP bullet and IMR 4895 resulted in a group under 1".
I think you have a bedding problem or a dirty/damaged bore(not from wear). While it is certainly possible to shoot out a 22/250 barrel, this is more likely to happen to a prairie dog rifle that gets overheated during extended firing. I have a Remington 700 22/250 that I used to shoot 20-40 times per week for 10-12 weeks every winter(never more than 4 shots at a time)for over a decade. That rifle certainly is not shot out.0 -
Free float barrel, pillar bedding and loading near the lands got my M70 22-250 shooting 1/4 moa. After 4000 rounds it still shot sub 1 MOA with a BSA scope. Throat erosion kept me from loading near the lands after 3000+ rounds. Let us know what you do. 0 -
3 inchs at 100 yards is bad, especially if this is average.
I would start by checking the following.
Change the scope (even a 2.5x7 or a 3x9) and while the scope is off the gun check to make sure the scope base screws are not bottomed out before the base gets tight to the receiver. (.001 shift will make approx 1 inch shift at 100 yards)
I've seen erratic scopes make a good gun look bad and cost a reloader several $$$'s before the intermittent bad scope was located. (I have a old 2x7 that I use for proving a scope is bad)
If the 3 inch group shift is alway kicking out in same direction, rotate the scope 90 degree in the rings and test. If bullet flyers shift 90 degrees the scope is bad. (best to sub the scope though)
Next I would get a good bore cleaner and make sure the bore is not copper fouled. Copper fouling will really makea barrel act like a smooth bore. I've brought guns from 6 inchs groups to less than 1 inch due to Cu fouled barrels. You will need to recognize how to read a cleaning jag so as to know when CU fouling is gone.
I've seen used guns with poor accuracy have cu fouled barrels most often.
I would glass bed the gun and free float the barrel, after I got it in the 1 1/2 inch average group area. Normally glass bedding is not going to get it from 3 inchs to 1 inch or better.
I would also back off on the velocity and see how it acts with good silhouette type target bullet. (select the bullet weight for your rifling twist) Don't expect a 22 cal hunting type bullet to produce consistent good groups at 3600 fps.
Also keep a record of your targets. Sometimes I've found a pattern, etc, when reviewing targets. Read the targets to try and interpret what the gun is trying to tell you.
I've seen quite a few guns that a new barrel was not the answer to their accuracy issues!
Also make sure the scope don't have a serious parallax issue! (movement vert or horz of eye when viewing the target produces a shift in the target center)
Also, don't hurt the messenger: Maybe consider having someone else test fire the gun. (so as to prove it's really the gun)
I've had to take a know good shooting gun to the range with me at times just to prove to myself that I could still shoot, when I run into a gun such as yours)
Stay calm!0 -
Update.....Checked rings to make sure tight; . Had a smith look at the bore yesterday. The bore was NOT eroded and "shot out". He checked the trigger pull -- 6#. He also suggested that I try a composite stock versus the wooden stock on the rifle now. He loaned me the composite stock to try.
Went to the range today. First 3 shots were low in 5 ring. Adjusted scope up with 20 clicks up elevation and 4 clicks right on windage. Last 5 shots in 10-ring bullseye--7/8" group. That's where I was trying to get to. Ammo Rem Core-Lokt 55 grain
I am going to buy the composite stock, get trigger pull down to appx 4 lbs. Eventually will work toward getting better glass. Apparently the barrel was not free floated on the wooden stock causing the higher than normal shot dispersion.
Thanks to all. My Best for a Happy 2012! [:)]0 -
Brownell's has some good articles about glass bedding using Acraglass GEL and some good videos on you tube.
7/8 inch average is good for 6# trigger pull, non-glassed stock and factory ammo! Re-search how to test for proper glass job by using a dial caliper so as to test that the action is not warped in the stock afterwards. (no movement of the barrel at the front of the stock as the recoil lug screw is tightened and loosened)
When properly glass bedded, you can remove and re-install the stock and no shift in POI.[;)]
The Savage gods finally smiled on you!0 -
You're fortunate that it is a Savage 110 you're having troubles with, it's probably one of the easiest rifles to change a barrel on. If all of the remedies mentioned above don't work, just buy a new barrel and have it installed. 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
10 comments