Cera Cote
Has anyone here used the AIR DRY ceracote to cover a complete rifle (metal)? I have used the DURACOTE, but find it to not be very durable. Or should I just pay the local shop to do it for me. THX
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I have the Ceracote on my 243 varminter and the Duracote on my .300 Wby. The only place the Duracote is showing any wear is at the ports on the muzzle brake. The Ceracote is showing a little degradation at the muzzle. Both have several hundred rounds through them. Based on my experience I would say there is little to chose between them.
Edit: My error, my Ceracote is the baked on version.0 -
Hey 62fuelie. Is the ceracote the air-dry type, or the baked on "dealer type". 0 -
In order for any finish to work, the surface it is being applied to, must be properly prepared.
Most of the time, that means bare, clean, oil free metal. Then a prep coat is applied. That coat is usually a bonding agent, that is heat activated. Then the final finish coat is applied. On the majority of finishes, a heat cure will out perform the air dry one, in the long run. However, that is not to say that the manufacturers don't try to market a formulation for the hobbyist that do not have access to the proper oven facilities.
Here is the procedure for applying Cerakote. It has the binder/adhesive in the hardener, most likely.
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/resources/files/Cerakote-Training-Manual-Web.pdf
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Hawkshaw,
Air dry will not be as durable as the heat activated Cerakote. But it is a simple matter of building a safe and usable oven to do the heat curing if that's the way you would like to go.
I have found ovens thrown away that I can scavenge parts from and use an old gym locker or better yet I bought a new smoker on a discontinued sale for pennies on the dollar. You can look for a complete smoker that's tall (vertical) or learn how to take the rifles apart and coat each part individually which is how we do it. The end result is far superior.
Remember that preparation is the key to complete success.
Best.0
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