bedding question
I have now bedded two rifles. It has taken two bedding sessions each to get full application where I want it. I am bedding the tang, recoil lug and the first 2-3 inches of barrel in front of the receiver.
On both attempts I did not get quite enough epoxy into the target areas and had to go back for round two, applying more epoxy bedding the next day to get full coverage.
Is there any issue doing it this way???
On both attempts I did not get quite enough epoxy into the target areas and had to go back for round two, applying more epoxy bedding the next day to get full coverage.
Is there any issue doing it this way???
0
-
I've found that multiple layers of epoxy tend to stay separate. that is, layer number 2 tends to not completely attach itself to layer number one. To encourage intermingling of the layers I've found roughing up layer number one a little before applying #2 helps. 0 -
Cleaning the release agent off is hard and that is what makes for a weak bond. Roughing up that first surface helps a lot.
Being a frugal guy, I think you will use less (have less waste if you can do it in one shot). After you do several more it will be easier to estimate how much to mix up and not waste so much.
I triple treat with release agent (drying between coats) after loosing a nice tiger striped maple stock on my Newton rifle. A few areas the size of large pin heads can really provide a bite.0 -
bpost,
What rifle and stock type are you bedding?
We don't ever allow two part bedding because of potential failure. I don't care about other opinions on this. Bed the rifle in one operation for barreled receiver and one for the bottom metal. Be absolutely sure that the bedding process is stress-free or you will not have resolved anything at all.
Stop being so conservative on the amount of bedding compound and make sure you have a little more than enough to fill all the voids. Use masking tape to protect some of the surfaces on the stock and to provide relief on the recoil lug.
One properly applied coat of mold release will be adequate to insure no sticking so long as you cover all the right areas.[;)]
Best mold release available for bedding:
AeroMarine Products: Ultra 4
This is available through Amazon as well as other suppliers for the consumer. We buy it direct several cases at a time.
http://www.amazon.com/Mold-Release-epoxy-ounce-aerosol/dp/B0047R2D0C/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1417966747&sr=8-18&keywords=mold+release+spray
Best.0 -
I had same problem when first started bedding rifles.
You are just not applying enough bedding epoxy. The epoxy will fill up the recoil lug area and squeeze out fuller if you will build a dam ahead of the recoil lug at the area where you want the epoxy to stop in the barrel channel. A user friendly way of doing this (building a dam) is use soft modeling clay, place a strip of excess clay across the barrel channel in the stock, apply little grease (Vaseline) to the barrel of the rifle, press the barreled action into the stock then remove the barreled action and trim the rear of the clay dam blunt and straight across. I usually use the 2 inch wide heat air duct tape across the stock barrel channel then place the clay on top as this will keep any epoxy that might get under the clay from sticking to the stock. The aluminum tape can be removed during final clean-up The grease on the barrel keeps the barrel from sticking to the clay dam and leaves the dam in the barrel channel for trimming square. This clay dam forces your epoxy to go back towards the recoil lug and magazine box area to get a good fill and up. Keep a heads up when you see epoxy squeeze up above the center line of a round barrel action because if it dries hard the action is glue locked into the stock. I use the dremel and make small channels back towards the magazine box area so as the epoxy that don't squeeze up and out can flow back into the magazine box area and be trimmed out later. On some rifles you can trim this excess thru the magazine floor plate when the epoxy not completely dry and putty consistency. The excess epoxy is not as user friendly to trim when completely dry. After removing the stock I carefully use round and flat files to trim the edges of the epoxy. With care adding dye you can dye the mixed epoxy to match the color of the stock. I now always try to have some epoxy left over or excess squeeze out. I wax both the action and gunstock before applying the release agent as additional release protection. The aluminum type 2 inch wide tape is real good for trimming and sticks to the gun metal and wood real well for use around the recoil lug area of some rifles where you want little clearance. Apply the aluminum tape to clean metal then apply release agent over the aluminum tape. Don't use the aluminum tape direct to a wood stock because it to sticky and may lift the finish, use wax and then good masking tape on wood. (wax is additional insurance if epoxy gets under the masking tape) You can use sharpened popsicle sticks to trim the excess squeeze out of epoxy from around the receiver and barrel w/o scratching the surrounding areas after the epoxy becomes putty like, usually about 1 hour after applying. Leave some in a test container right by the gun to get a idea of how hard it's set up for the trimming procedure. Do not trim while its still real soft, just when it's putty like and wants to cut easily with the wooden popsicle sticks.
If I have to do a skin bed to get a non stressing of the action I use a Dremel tool and rough up the existing epoxy using a upside down dovetail bit so as to lock in the new bedding to the other and also drill small cross angle holes with a dremel ball head bit. When adding the new epoxy use a toothpick and push the new epoxy down into the small dremel bit holes so as their are no air pockets underneath. I bed the actions of all rifles with a free floating barrel from about 2 inchs in front of recoil lug and then test for no stressing by installing ALL the action screws to proper torque and use a dial caliper on front of barrel at front of stock at about where the pressure point was or at the sling swivel area and no movement should be seen as the front screw at the recoil lug area is loosened and torqued.(you will not believe how dead steady the dial caliper will remain (no movement of the dial at all) WHEN YOU GET IT RIGHT AND NON STRESSED)It will take you a few trial runs to use the dial caliper and loosen and tighten the screw at the same time by yourself. Use a good fitting hollow ground gunsmitch screwdriver and have the gun laying on it's side and no finger or hand pressure on the barrel to stock at the caliper, I use a plastic jawed dial caliper so as to not scratch the barrel or stock. I've had some guys that I told this stress test procedure too that had already bedded their guns call me back and say I wished you had not told me that test procedure, I'm going to have to re-do my favorite old Betsey, or are you sure that it can be bedded so as the caliper don't move at all as the recoil screw is moved? When you see this stress free action you are ready to start accuracy testing, reloading, etc. After you get experienced you will be able to use your fingers at the fore end/barrel and feel for movement at first without using the dial caliper. I free float the barrel for about two thicknesses of paper and sometimes you will find that a thin spacer in front of or behind the recoil lug area is much more user friendly than hogging out the wood channel to get a free floating barrel. Also if you will use stock inletting screws and spring loaded clamps or surgical tubing for clamping the action into the epoxy the job will usually be stress free when complete because excess clamping force will stress the metal and wood. If final testing results in some stress detection try adding a shim of aluminum (.010 thick) like from a pop can behind or in front or behind of the recoil against the barrel portion and retest. If the stress movement is worse add the shim at the tang area and re-test. Majority of time it will be the recoil lug area of the receiver/barrel area that needs a slight skin bed to get it stress free and the dial caliper dead as the front recoil screw is moved during testing. once determined when the skin bedding needs to take place then use the Dremel tool to lockin the skin bed and leave a small shim spacer washer in place so as to get the correct amount of epoxy. All my hunting rifle have free floated barrel and are very accurate and a free glass bedded action with a floated barrel allows me to remove the stock and reinstall w/o point of impact change whereas a pressure point at front of barrel will change point of impact as the torque on the recoil lug screw is changed or as the stock stress changes. (point of impact usually shifts up and down)
Glass bedding some of the Ruger rifles takes some special tricks.
Lots of glass bedding info available on line and Brownells tech dept mailed out good info at one time about how to test final results using a dial caliper. (using their Acraglass)
Take care and don't get em glued together. I've come close few times, had to use the chest freezer trick one time to get one apart.
I always let the bedding cure for at least 48 hours before test firing and on the big magnums I add ground aluminum dust to the epoxy at the recoil lug area for more strength. Steel dust will rust. You can make you own with a grinder.
Always when first playing with glass bedding a gun, borrow your brother in laws gun, don't experiment with a good gun of your own until you get familiar with do's and don't.0 -
bpost,
As I stated above, this should be accomplished in one layer not two. Use the release agent I state and you will never stick an action if applied in all the correct locations.
I have printed this DIY article from Richard Franklin several times but it never hurts to have it up once more since it is the best:
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/
Any questions or problems feel free to e-mail me.
Best.0 -
quote:Originally posted by nononsense
bpost,
As I stated above, this should be accomplished in one layer not two. Use the release agent I state and you will never stick an action if applied in all the correct locations.
I have printed this DIY article from Richard Franklin several times but it never hurts to have it up once more since it is the best:
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/
Any questions or problems feel free to e-mail me.
Best.
Very good. I've never seen that article about bedding.
Thanks!0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
6 comments