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Danish Oil and Birchwood Casey Tru - Oil

fhudik
I Need some help from one of you wood working experts - no joke. I'm about where I want to be, but one mistake now will be a major setback.

I have a walnut gunstock that I previously striped reworked and finished with Danish Oil finish medium walnut color. Afterwards I applied R. Gale Lock Company Early American Walnut Gun Stain purchased from Brownells on top of the Danish Stain. It did a great job penetrating the Watco Danish Oil. and looks great.

The Danish oil finish stains, seals & protects but it not recommended for exterior use.

Can you please tell me if Birchwood Casey Tru - Oil Gunstock Finish can be applied over Watco Danish oil. I have read that Tung oil will cover over Danish Oil but found no information if Tru - Oil Gunstock Finish will cover over the Danish Oil.

Again, thank you for any informantion you can provide.

Regards,

Frank
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Comments

8 comments

Date Votes
  • charliemeyer007
    Find a scrap piece of walnut and give it the same treatment(s) then try the Tru - oil over top.
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  • 35 Whelen
    I've refinished a bunch of stocks using Tru-Oil over the Watco Danish Oil Finish, and never had an issue. Give the Oil Finish at least 24 hours, after wiping off the excess, and it shouldn't bleed through the Tru-Oil when you apply it. The Tru-Oil will dry the same as always.
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  • Hangfire
    You should be good to go, Frank.. Tru-Oil over dried Watco is fine.. I use Watco Oil as a stain/sealer under many topcoats, for gunstocks and furniture.. I also like it for the finish coat in many applications..

    The only thing I'd watch is that the Tru-Oil ( or any other topcoat) doesn't pull out any of the stain.. The stain you used is alcohol based.. These are best applied to the bare wood, and not on top of another finish, like Watco.. If the stain you used dried almost instantly, it simply used alcohol as the carrier to deposit the color.. If it had a drying time, or felt like it had some body to it, it could have included a binder to lock the color when dried..Either way, no harm done- just be sure and proceed carefully with the first coat of Tru-Oil.. Once the first topcoat has dried, the color should be locked in..

    Just a thought on the interior/exterior designation.. Exterior rated finishes are really just those that are expected to to be exposed to weather all the time.. Most gunstocks aren't subjected to the same conditions as a patio deck- outside 24/7.. Tru-Oil isn't an exterior finish, just a harder oil/resin finish..
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  • fhudik
    I want to thank all of you for your responses. It was all good advice. I just put the first coat of Tru-Oil on about an hour ago. Thanks again for your time and trouble to respond.

    Regards,

    Frank
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  • joe snag
    I just redid my Remington stock and forarm with tru oil.heres a look,it came out great.
    100_4467.jpg
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  • CapnMidnight
    Put a pretty good coat of tru oil on, let it dry for 2 days. Take the top of it off with steel wool. Do this 3 or 4 times, until you have all the pores filled. Put the last coat on lightly, rub it in good, build a little heat in you fingers doing it. Let it dry 3 days, take 0000 steel wool and carefully take the shine off. Use auto polishing compound, polish the stock. The finish will look a foot deep. Put a light coat of good stock wax on it and your finished.
    This is my secret, don't be telling a bunch of folks.[;)]
    W.D.
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  • Ray Boone
    I like the put it on-take it off system as noted by WD, but I prefer Linspeed to Tru oil.
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  • joe snag
    I used tru-oil on my 760 only because I carry it out in all weather condition,snow and rain and I wanted the wood sealed.
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