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Which pillars to use to bed benchrest rifle?

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7 comments

  • llama
    Check your local hardware store. I've made pillars for bedding a 10/22 out of a brass air hose bib. Put it in a drill press and use a file to turn down the outside, insert, mark, cut off with dremel to close to proper height, finish it off with the drill press and file again.
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  • Cheechako
    Pillars do not have to be exactly the correct height (length) because you want to do a final epoxy bedding with a thin layer of bedding material over the top and bottom of the pillars. Most Benchrest shooters that use pillars do not want the action, triggerguard, or screws to make direct contact with the pillars.

    Any non-compressable material will do. You can even make them out of your epoxy bedding material. Pillars are not meant to support the action. They are there to keep the stock from compressing under the tension of the action screws. If you use a glue-in method of bedding, you do not need pillars.

    Ray
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  • tsr1965
    Most pillar bedding jobs, the pillars start out longer than needed. They are epoxied into the stock, then cut back down with a reamer, to just below the surface. From there the stock is further recessed where needed, and a good epoxy like Marinetex, Brownells Steel Bed, or Balzona, are used. J-B Weld, can also be used in a Jam. These have almost no shrinkage, and have a wide range of temperature stability.

    After the epoxy has cured, remove the rifle from the action. In the previous step, in order to facilitate this step, it is prudent that you use adequate amounts of release agent. Sometimes in multiple coats.

    As for your question...if I can find them, I use brass 1/4" pipe, and use a hacksaw to cut it to the length I need. A 3-4 foot length of pipe, will work for many pillar installations.

    Properly installed pillars are dual purpose. First they provide a rock solid platform to support the action and barrel. The stock is only a handle, that holds that platform.

    Secondly, they provide a medium that is rigid, so one can torque the action screws, with no residual decompression.

    Best
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  • midnightrunpaintballer
    this is the basic mock up of what I'm building and its progress so far. hv41.jpg

    Gotta bed the action, pick up another set of rings, and do the finish work. Just came back from the smith from having bolt stop installed, barrel threaded, brake installed, and brake turned down to match barrel profile. Time to get back to work on it now.
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  • MG1890
    Chambering?????????????????????


    That's sounds like fun. Good pieces, should be a real shooter.

    I've built several 6mm-284's, love that rebated case. Have you considered making your barrel channel large enough to allow barrel removal without removing the stock or scope, and setting this up as a switch barrel?
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  • midnightrunpaintballer
    quote:Originally posted by MG1890
    Chambering?????????????????????


    Well it started out as a rem 700 adl in 30-06 but I blew it up.

    99nw.jpg

    So I decided to scrap everything but the action and build it into what I wanted.

    Got a Screamin deal on a Shilen #7 contour barrel in 308 win so I jumped on it even though I'm planning to make it a 6.5x284 sometime in the future.

    had the smith blueprint the action, install barrel, install bolt stop, and do the work for the brake

    Jewell 1.5 oz BR trigger

    Richards Microfit benchrest stock that I've reshaped into what I want. I'll do finish sanding and several coats of high gloss clear when I finish bedding it.

    Nightforce Competition 15-55x52 with ddr reticle

    another set of Burris signature zee rings will be the last purchase I need to make to complete the build.

    I've got a couple new boxes of Lapua brass, a couple jugs of Varget, and a bunch of Berger VLD's and Hornady A-Max's to test when it's ready.
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