For better or worse...
I just bought a rock chucker supreme master reloader kit.
I'm certain their are others that are better/cheaper/nicer color. But that's what I bought.
[;)]
I'm not too interested in working up 1000 yd rounds for .223. But I am interested in learning how to create a serviceable round in a reliable and safe manner. And hopefully saving a buck or two over the prices I'm experiencing locally.
So for a beginner, what's the most forgiving/easiest round to learn on?
Currently, I shoot .380 9mm .45acp .223 .308 on a fairly regular basis.
Of those, knowing what you know, which would you choose to start with?
I'm certain their are others that are better/cheaper/nicer color. But that's what I bought.
[;)]
I'm not too interested in working up 1000 yd rounds for .223. But I am interested in learning how to create a serviceable round in a reliable and safe manner. And hopefully saving a buck or two over the prices I'm experiencing locally.
So for a beginner, what's the most forgiving/easiest round to learn on?
Currently, I shoot .380 9mm .45acp .223 .308 on a fairly regular basis.
Of those, knowing what you know, which would you choose to start with?
0
-
Not really any difference in the hardness in loading pistol vs. rifle. Pick the one(s) you can actually get primers, powder and bullets for providing you have brass.
Carbide dies for pistol rounds are worth the extra bucks.
Get a good reloading book or two and read them. It's a lot faster to learn from someone with experience.0 -
I've got brass for all.
And I intend to read a bunch.
From what I've read so far, pistol is a little easier than rifle.
No?0 -
Most bottle necked cartridges use only 2 dies, straight cases 3 or 4 dies. Auto-loading rifles sometimes require small base sizing dies and pistols usually are full length sized every time. Bolt guns with good chambers can often be just be neck sized.
Custom made ammo in the 223/308 will likely be more accurate in your gun than factory ammo. With your pistol ammo it will be harder to tell the difference for most people.
A .1 grain error +- in 5 grain means more than that same amount in 30 to 50 grains.
45ACP is easier than the short .380 if you have big finger and hands.0 -
I think you picked a good outfit. I do almost all my loading on an old Rockchucker.
I'm going to list a few common rookie mistakes to avoid:
#1 Don't neglect to lube your rifle cases prior to sizing. I use RCBS lube like you probably got with your kit. Don't get lube on the shoulder or you'll get little dents in the shoulder. If you don't lube, you'll get a case stuck in the die and they are very difficult to get out. Don't ask me how I know!
#2 Sometimes resized cases are difficult to chamber in your rifle. If that happens you may have to adjust your sizer die to bump hard against the shell holder.
#3 Do not screw your seater die in too far. There is a crimp shoulder in most seaters that usually I do not use. Put an empty resized case in your shell holder, raise the ram, screw your seater die in until you feel the crimp shoulder touch the mouth of the case. Back the die off a half turn or so and set the die lock ring. Use the bullet seating stem to adjust the bullet seating depth.
In answer to your question, I started with .30/06 and .220 Swift for bolt action rifles so I would suggest you start with your .308 or .223.
And when you run into trouble or are unsure of something, come back and ask more questions. Good luck.0 -
You did great!
Load the 308 first. it is easy to load for and will show the results of your labor on the target.
Do be careful with the 45ACP, do not over bell the case mouth and be very mindful of your powder charges. It is a easy round to load but you need to pay attention to seating depth and neck tension.0 -
I would start with rifle. Only 2 dies. Nice kit, just use a spray lube. I don't think that RCBS still sells that lube pad(worthless). I think the 223 would be good.
Pistol has 3 or 4 dies. The bell or flare is different. And I use an extra taper crimp on all my 40sw and 9mm. 5 dies total. On a 5 stage progressive.
I do almost all rifles on single stage. Still using RCBS special 5 press from my Dad. Over 35 years old.0 -
There is a lot of good video's on youtube as well. 0 -
Some good advice here so far...
Read The ABCs of reloading...watch some Youtube videos (there are many)...ask every question that pops into yer noggin'
It would be IDEAL if you could find a mentor; someone local, whom you're comfortable hanging out with, and who has the knack for explaining things in a way YOU understand.0 -
You picked a great kit!! It will give you many years of service, enjoy! 0 -
Start with the .45 ACP. I have loaded all the rounds you mentioned and .45 ACP is the one to start with. 0 -
Package came today.
I've ordered a rcbs die kit for .45 acp and .223.
.45 is a three piece carbide set.
.223 is a two piece steel set.
And the associated holders.
I'm going to go to the only gun store I know that has primers on the shelf and pick up some large pistol and small rifle primers. Tomorrow, weather permitting.
At this point I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IM DOING!
And I'll do a lot of reading before I load anything.
I'm also going to get a sturdy backing plate for both sides (top and bottom) of my work bench before I bolt this thing down.
I'm thinking for this first run through, I'll just order components. That way I'll be in "assembly" mode instead of "reloading" mode.
What am I missing that will bite me??0 -
What am I missing that will bite me??
Hard to predict at this point. Just go slow, read the instructions, ask more questions.
One more thing: If you are using fired military .223 brass, the primers are crimped in place. The fired primers will come out in the usual way but the crimp has to removed before a new primer can be seated. There are chamfering tools and swaging tools for this and some guys just peel it out with a jack knife.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Ambrose
What am I missing that will bite me??
Hard to predict at this point. Just go slow, read the instructions, ask more questions.
One more thing: If you are using fired military .223 brass, the primers are crimped in place. The fired primers will come out in the usual way but the crimp has to removed before a new primer can be seated. There are chamfering tools and swaging tools for this and some guys just peel it out with a jack knife.
See. I already knew that. From reading!!!
Thanks for the caution.0 -
Understanding the mechanical part of reloading is actually easy. The art of reloading is where it gets into your blood.
Beginner errors are too much belling on the pistol cases and shoving the shoulder back on rifle cases by having the seating die screwed down too far. Another common issue with the 45 is not setting the seating die to hold the lead bullet firmly yet leave enough case mouth to headspace on.
A taper crimp die for the 45ACP is recommended.0 -
RCBS calls it the "Master Reloading Kit"...but you will be buying lots of "little" extras...I highly recommend a decent Dail Caliper right away. As for reading, get one of the more recent Lymans reloading guides/manuals. Used ones are just as good as new..if ya know what I mean..shop around. Read learn and take your time..The easiest rounds to reload are straight wall handgun rounds...my 2 cents...be safe and be smart..relooader44mag 0 -
One thing I highly recommend is the Factory Crimp Die made by Lee. I have one for all the calibers I reload. 0 -
The dies I ordered arrived today.
RCBS 3 die carb set for .45 acp/ar/gap
RCBS F L die set .223
#10 shell holder arrived
# 03 shell holder is being shipped separately.
I bot some primers last weekend.
1000 small rifle for $32ish
1000 large pistol were marked $3.29 I pointed out to the clerk they were clearly mispriced and negotiated a $30 price point. [;)]
Everything is still in boxes.
But I'm having fun reading and collecting components!0 -
.308 is easy enough. Personally/my preference I like to stick to a max weight of 168gr. bullets. It is not limited to that, My fav. is in the 155gr range. Little heaver than 147 NATO's and a little slimmer 168/175 match. 0 -
My .308 is consistently sub moa with a variety of factory loads.
Far more accurate than I will ever shoot offhand. [:D]
But I'm interested it what is possible. Once it warms up. [:D][:D]
So another question.
I bought 2k primers the other day. I put them in my gun cabinet (not safe) in the original packaging. I have desiccant in the cabinet.
I'm reading again (as you all advised) and saw that I should not store large quantities of primers together since even a few hundred primers can cause serious injury or death.
So 2k is more than several hundred. But nowhere near what my LGS had sitting on his shelves. I'm guessing I'm ok. But I'd appreciate some reassurance.0 -
bigoutside..If the primers are in the factory packaging ...dont worry about them being a hazard. Best to keep them away from flames...primers dont like to be on fire[:D]. I store mine on a shelf next to my reloading bench...never had a problem in over 25 years...Hey, email me your address and I will send you a new in the package Cabelas Stainless steel dial caliper....I got a good deal on it and its been sitting around for a few years...its all yours, just email me your addy, shipping is on me[:)]...reloader44mag 0 -
About 50 years ago I started reloading for the only CF rifle that I had at the time, a Rem M700 .308Win. I started with a Lee Loader and an Ohaus scale. After I got the basics down I expanded to an RCBS Rockchucker. Sounds like you are on the same course. Using the rifle primarily for big game hunting, my preference was 180 gr Nosler Partitions and 46 grains of W748. I would use either Speer or Sierra 180s with the same load for practice. 0 -
You are fine with primers. People turn them into a bomb when they take them out of the package and pour them in a jar to save space and provide a sealed environment.
Out of way more than a 100 firearms I have loaded for, only one shot better with their ammo than mine. I tried every primer, powder, bullet, 3 different die set in 5 different presses to no avail. The vast majority shot way better with my ammo.0 -
quote:Originally posted by reloader44mag
bigoutside..If the primers are in the factory packaging ...dont worry about them being a hazard. Best to keep them away from flames...primers dont like to be on fire[:D]. I store mine on a shelf next to my reloading bench...never had a problem in over 25 years...Hey, email me your address and I will send you a new in the package Cabelas Stainless steel dial caliper....I got a good deal on it and its been sitting around for a few years...its all yours, just email me your addy, shipping is on me[:)]...reloader44mag
A very kind offer.
Thank you.0 -
The stars aligned.
I started opening boxes. And I couldn't stop!!!
Brought in the walnut medium I picked up at harbor freight two weeks ago, but left in the trunk of my car.
Opened the vibrating case tumbler that came in the mail last week from an established GB seller. Assembled that last night. Four screws. Not a big deal.
Dumped about 250ish .45acp brass into the tumbler with a "best guess" amount of media. (Odd that the amount isn't indicated in the instructions). I suspect I over filled it.
Got things humming while I figured out how to mount the press ( from one of my favorite GB sellers) on the accessory plate.
Clamped the plate to my bench (my first choice isn't going to work at all- glad I didn't screw it down yet). And attached the press to the plate. The press is FAR heavier than I suspected. I'm guessing 70% of the total kit weight. Nothing an average 4th grader can't handle; but a little wonky when you're taking things out of the box.
Stabbed myself in the thumb trying to get the shell holder in place. (No instructions on how that works) sprayed some gunscrubber on the wound and the bleeding stopped.
The instructions included with the dies, the press, the tumbler, the stands... Totally inadequate. I'm very glad I've read Bruce's stickys at the top of this forum. And asked a bunch of stupid questions which were kindly answered by you all. YouTube is great. But a live resource is better!!
Tumbled, decapped and resized a couple hundred pieces of .45 brass. Separated large/small primer pockets. (I'm really proud of that. I can tell the difference between Federal and Winchester when I picked them up).
I'm probably wrong. But I put the 150+ large primer brass back into the tumbler for another go around without primers. I suspect an hour or so will make everything pretty for the new primers.
Haven't started the tumbler yet. So if I'm crazy, let me know before I plug everything in tomorrow night.0 -
Dont forget to pick the media out of each blow hole, and shine up the pocket with a tool, or flatbladed screwdriver that fits properly. Add a little auto polish to your media, it settles dust and really shines the brass. 0 -
I add red jewelers rouge to my walnut media...alittle residue left after tumbling but cleans the brass up nice...I never tumble handgun brass after primers are removed..too much work afterwards. As far as too much media in the tumbler...I add brass and fill to the top with media every time...have fun...be careful and take your time...the thumb injury sounds familiar...that should only happen ONCE[:D] 0 -
I hand scrape every primer pocket every time. It gives you a chance to inspect your brass. Vinyl coated cable from the box stores can be found in the right size for large and small primer pockets. Buy a few feet of each size for a couple of bucks. Use a Dremel or other cut-off wheel tool to make square ended lengths about 3 or 4 inches long. Use utility knife blade to strip about 3/8" of the vinyl coating from one end. Rotate the free wire end in the primer pocket. Wire lay will have a preferred direction of location. When worn out use cutoff wheel to shorten back to a new square edge and trim then vinyl - new tools again.
I chuck my cable in the Unimat lathe when I doing lots of cases. I also do the same for the champher tool.0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
27 comments