redfield/leupold mount compatability
do the leupold rings for their bar mount fit the redfield jr bar mounts
and vice versa? referring to the bar with forward ring lug fit into bar and rear ring
overrides the bar and held captive with side bolts. scope removal with one rear bolt,
pivot/rotate entire scope to free front lug.
and vice versa? referring to the bar with forward ring lug fit into bar and rear ring
overrides the bar and held captive with side bolts. scope removal with one rear bolt,
pivot/rotate entire scope to free front lug.
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yes they are compatable, either way 0 -
Yes
But always when installing the turn in rings (dovetailtail types) use a broom handle and turn it both directions, cw and ccw or you can easily bend your scope if later removing the scope from the base by removing a windage screw and using the scope as the rotation lever.
Kinda misleading but this turn in front and windage rear type base and rings (dovetail front, windage rear) is sometimes called standard type.
If you leave one of the windage screws in place, when the scope is twist removed and then reinstalled the scope will be really close to original point of impact if the Scopes tube did not bend very much and the one removed windage screw is re-torqued to same placed as before.0 -
thanks for advice. Based on your suggestion I went a step further. Using a thin
open end wrench to turn the ring at its base point, thus preventing any lateral
stress on the ring. then using true stock one inch bar in place of scope to make a
precise barrel to scope alignment. plan on making a alignment mark on bar to
rear ring base for return to position. i like this bar mount......does it provide additional
support to the receiver ?0 -
"..does it provide additional
support to the receiver ?)
I believe it does, some say no as only 3, 6x48 screws are involved but you have not only shear support but also friction support.0 -
You asked!
does it provide additional
support to the receiver ?
Mike Whisky is right on.
That receiver support is more of a selling point for a one piece base and kinda a old wives tale. I preferred a one piece base few years ago but you will find that a two piece base set-up is more user friendly for at least couple reasons, allows more access to the magazine area, and on some guns the scope can be used as a handle when carry the gun thru heavy brush, etc. (two piece base allows fingers to be wrapped completely around the scope at the receiver area on some guns and the gun carries balanced with a firm grip)
If a receiver is so flimsy a one piece base is needed for additional support the gun should not be used!
Also when I twist the front ring in with a bar, wrench, etc I twist it CW then CCW so as to shear the metal both directions on the dove tails.
This CW-CCW helps shear the metal to metal of the dovetail both directions so as to let the scope align the dovetail easier as the rear base windage screws are tuned Left and Right to get the scope crosshair windage of the scope centered. Scopes can easily be dented (ring marks with the dovetail front mounts, windage rear if the front dovetail is real tight fit.
Burris (has a good idea here) has some Posi-align rings that has a plastic insert that allows a scope to align itself when the dovetail rings are offset or not aligned and they are great if you have a expensive scope that you don't want rings marks on. No need for lapping rings when using the posi-align. When a scope is removed from the posi-align rings it will still look like original with no ring marks.
The Burris are not as easily found as the standard Leupold rings. (probably why you very seldom see them in use.
They also have plastic inserts that allow for both windage and elevation fine tuning so as to keep your crosshair adjustments centered.
A good bore sighter is a good thing when mounting a scope with the dovetail front ring, windage rear.0 -
thanks for taking time to respond, can not learn these things on a university level.
I asked about strenght because some critizize the mauser thumb cut out as a weaken modification to the receiver.
seems to me all the stress of pressure is placed between the bolt lugs and the matching lugs
withn the receiver ring nothing to do with the reciver sides and rear portion.0 -
quote:Originally posted by jaegermister
thanks for taking time to respond, can not learn these things on a university level.
I asked about strenght because some critizize the mauser thumb cut out as a weaken modification to the receiver.
seems to me all the stress of pressure is placed between the bolt lugs and the matching lugs
withn the receiver ring nothing to do with the reciver sides and rear portion.
Some things you cannot get out of a book!
I have few custom Mausers and glass bedded several of the Winchester, Rem, Mauser actions and have not seen any receivers yet that NEEDED a one piece base to keep the receiver from bending, flexing or breaking.
Seems sometimes things (tales) are spread and just keep getting larger, like for example two that come to mind right offhand, the one piece adds NEEDED strength to the receiver and 2nd, weaver bases and rings are a POS.
When I hear people repeat these tales I can't keep my mouth shut any longer. What gave Weaver rings and bases a bad reputation was people were not really using WEAVER rings or bases, they were using the flimsy weaver STYLEPOS stuff and then they claimed bad Weaver rings and bases therefore the seed is planted.
Nothing at all wrong with WEAVER bases and rings in the hands of someone who knows what they are doing, instead of Bubba.0 -
Don't believe anyone mentioned cleaning the front ring's lug and where they fit in the slot (probably not the correct word) of the bar. Then lube both the lug and slot lightly with grease before torqueing using an appropriate diameter pipe/solid-cylinder not your scope tube. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by jaegermister
I asked about strenght because some critizize the mauser thumb cut out as a weaken modification to the receiver.
seems to me all the stress of pressure is placed between the bolt lugs and the matching lugs
withn the receiver ring nothing to do with the reciver sides and rear portion.
The main problem there is poor inletting/bedding of the receiver into the stock and improper tightening of the guard screws. While most any receiver could be flexed the charger cut Mauser is more prone to flex in the charger cut area.0 -
quote:Originally posted by asphalt cowboy
quote:Originally posted by jaegermister
I asked about strenght because some critizize the mauser thumb cut out as a weaken modification to the receiver.
seems to me all the stress of pressure is placed between the bolt lugs and the matching lugs
withn the receiver ring nothing to do with the reciver sides and rear portion.
The main problem there is poor inletting/bedding of the receiver into the stock and improper tightening of the guard screws. While most any receiver could be flexed the charger cut Mauser is more prone to flex in the charger cut area.
Right about poor bedding or a soft stock at the tang area and Bubba over tightening the guard screws warping the receive.
A one piece base to strengthen the receiver is not the answer for correcting such warping Bubba issues. You can check for such warping or poor bedding of the receiver if the barrel is free floated from about 2 inches in front of the recoil lug to fore end (no pressure point) and place a sliding dial caliper at the fore end and over the barrel and loosen and tighten the recoil screw with the tang screw at proper torque and if the dial caliper indicates movement up or down the bedding between the tang and the receiver recoil area is not proper and needs attention. I use the RCBS plastic jaw caliper for this test so the barrel won't get scratched by steel caliper jaw.
You will be surprised using the caliper test how many bolt action guns have poor inletting or bedding in this area.0
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