Stainless Scratches
My stainless Anaconda has a very small few scratches on it - about the size of an eraser head and very slight, just a few lines from what looks like 600 grit "wetndry" paper. Crocus cloth doesn't quite take it out, nor does "Osso" - a nearly non-abrasive polish I use to keep the thing looking clean. I need something a bit more agressive than bore paste and that is worked by hand, no wheel. Any suggestions?
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FLITZ. 0 -
600 Silcon-Carbide wet/dry strip with a pop sickle stick or stiffer piece of wood for backing. Look at the surface and see if there is any grain, not sure what you would call it for metal, and follow the surface grain. Inspect after dry use and if it looks like the spot has been removed sufficiently removed then wet with oil and try sanding it again. Flitz works fine on just about anything (e.g., surface rust, fiber-glass stocks, polishing barrels with a jag, etc.) but you apparently need to remove some metal. Don't try steel wool - could end up with some steel atoms in the stainless matrix and they could rust. 0 -
Steel wool won't imbed in gun steel. All you have to do is wipe it off. 0 -
Flitz is your friend.
W.D.0 -
You remember the combo erasers with pink and grey? The grey side might do the trick. You may have to polish after to match the rest of the gun.
Also anything you do you might wanna try it under the grips (or some other place) that won't show.0 -
quote:Originally posted by spirits
600 Silcon-Carbide wet/dry strip with a pop sickle stick or stiffer piece of wood for backing. Look at the surface and see if there is any grain, not sure what you would call it for metal, and follow the surface grain. Inspect after dry use and if it looks like the spot has been removed sufficiently removed then wet with oil and try sanding it again. Flitz works fine on just about anything (e.g., surface rust, fiber-glass stocks, polishing barrels with a jag, etc.) but you apparently need to remove some metal. Don't try steel wool - could end up with some steel atoms in the stainless matrix and they could rust.
Actually, that's the stuff that put in the scratches. This pistol was made in 1994 and there was what I would call the stainless steel equivalent of rust on the right side of the frame behind the recoil plate. I used a well worn bit of the 600 grit and it left enough of a scratch to be noticeable on what is an other wise nicely polished surface. The revolver isn't high polished, as in "is that nickel" clean and shiny.
Steel wool is kind of working, but damn - it's going to take forever.
I was thinking of the "grey" eraser, might give it a try as suggested under grips. Is Flitz a bit abrasive? I have some "NevrDull" and that has no abrasive, or close to none.0 -
I've had good results with whitening toothpaste on stainless steel again try under grip area first 0 -
We have very good results on S&W SS with a sanding sponge. You need to try a grit to match the Colt [;)] 0 -
Felt wheels in an adjustable speed Dremel tool. Find an assortment pack of stainless polishing compound. Wire brushes will work too.
Practice on some junk stainless steel silverware.0 -
Doug,
Leave it as is, unless you send it into Colt for a refinish. That is a brushed stainless finish, unless it is the Ultimate Stainless, that is mirror polished. Messing up either one, with the Anaconda being highly collectable, will detract from the value.
quote:Originally posted by Bill DeShivs
Steel wool won't imbed in gun steel. All you have to do is wipe it off.
That is NOT a myth. If you use regular steel wool, the iron atoms WILL imbed in the pores on the stainless, and oxidize, unless well oiled. Been there and done that.0
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