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Steel Shot

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11 comments

  • victorj19
    Can you tell me if my remington sp-10 and browning bps 10 ga are capable of handling steel shot,or where I can find out myself.T hanks Gordon.
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  • duckhunter
    If you do your job they will do theirs. [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D]
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  • rufe-snow
    Make sure your shotgun can handle steel shot. Lot of the older shotguns, ( pre 1980 ). Were made for lead shot only. Heavy steel shot loads, can ruin their fixed choke barrels.

    It was common at the time, for older full choke guns. To have their barrels opened up, to improved cylinder. To prevent damage when firing steel shot loads.
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  • buschmaster
    yep. for steel shot #2 is about right for ducks, but you're going to beat up your choke. the less choke the better.
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  • victorj19
    Thanks guys. I have a "newer" (about 10 yo) 1100 and plan on using a modified choke tube.
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  • iceracerx
    Good luck.

    It's mostly Bufflehead shooting on St Clair, so #2s are on the large end. You want at least #4 or BB for Geese, if you get the chance. I haven't had a shot at a Mallard or other large duck in the last 20 years 'on the flats'.
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  • diver-rig
    Mallards, pintails, and such over decoys, 6-4 shot.

    2-3-4 shot when they get wary later in the season, and shots are farther away.

    I use either 2 shot or bb on canadas, 2 or 3 shot on whitefronts, and any steel shot bigger than 6 shot on snows.

    Pattern test your shotgun to see what it likes. I have a Browning BPS that had holes in 3" 4 shot that were bigger than most ducks. Kept playing with different brand choke tubes till I found one that worked for me.

    Warning, duck hunting is very addictive and very expensive hobby.
    Have fun.
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  • asphalt cowboy
    quote:Originally posted by victorj19
    Thanks guys. I have a "newer" (about 10 yo) 1100 and plan on using a modified choke tube.


    If your tubes are of the flush type buy at least one extra.
    Even steel compatible tubes will stretch and can jamb in the barrel.
    While it's a good idea to check your tube periodically to ensure it hasn't shot loose, with steel you want to catch it, and replace it, before it jambs.
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  • discusdad
    i'm thinking you should use either a LIGHT modified or an Improved cylinder tube if you plan on shooting decoying ducks. generally speaking steel shoots tighter than lead so a modified steel is close to full choke with lead. shot size is fine for most all ducks this time of year. december and january you may want to put the 3s in the cabinet and go with 2s and 1s..BB if the ducks are decoy shy.. best bet is have 2 tubes as suggested and PATTERN your loads at 30 yards. gotta know not only the pattern density, but also if the gun is shooting where you are aiming.
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  • dakotashooter2
    quote:Originally posted by discusdad
    i'm thinking you should use either a LIGHT modified or an Improved cylinder tube if you plan on shooting decoying ducks. generally speaking steel shoots tighter than lead so a modified steel is close to full choke with lead. shot size is fine for most all ducks this time of year. december and january you may want to put the 3s in the cabinet and go with 2s and 1s..BB if the ducks are decoy shy.. best bet is have 2 tubes as suggested and PATTERN your loads at 30 yards. gotta know not only the pattern density, but also if the gun is shooting where you are aiming.


    I agree with this...I don't know why some guys are so hung up on full choke especially for decoying where the birds are likely going to be under 35 yards.. I tend to have best results with steel using an improved and modified or light modified.
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  • charliemeyer007
    Metal filled choke tube lube is worth the trouble. Marking's on the tube doesn't always match actual performance on paper or birds for that matter. +1 for patterning at several ranges. I like bigger shot, less to pick out if you are eating the birds.
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