1911 Trigger Pull Problem
I'm building my first 1911 .45 from the frame up.
Upon completing the frame parts fitting and installation with new Wilson Combat parts, I've noticed the trigger pull seems too tight or too hard to pull as opposed to my other factory 1911.
I'm using the deluxe Wilson Combat pre-polished sear and pre-polished commander trigger combination as well as the Wilson Combat spring kit.
I'm assuming the main spring tension and/or the sear spring tension may possibly be the reason, and maybe I need to change them out to a lower tension? Or maybe I'm way off. I have no idea, since this is my first build.
Any ideas?
Thank You
Upon completing the frame parts fitting and installation with new Wilson Combat parts, I've noticed the trigger pull seems too tight or too hard to pull as opposed to my other factory 1911.
I'm using the deluxe Wilson Combat pre-polished sear and pre-polished commander trigger combination as well as the Wilson Combat spring kit.
I'm assuming the main spring tension and/or the sear spring tension may possibly be the reason, and maybe I need to change them out to a lower tension? Or maybe I'm way off. I have no idea, since this is my first build.
Any ideas?
Thank You
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How tight is the trigger in the frame [?] It might need fitting there. 0 -
The magazine can also contact the trigger 'loop' and cause a heavy trigger pull. 0 -
You should be lightly stoning almost every machined edge. Drag a micro fiber cloth or a silk gloved finger on all surfaces and edges to feel for burrs. The little plastic flexible polishing stones are nice.
Check each part for fit, then check the assembly.
Be really careful not to change the working face angle on the hammer and sear. You can make a jig to hold the hammer and sear in their proper relation so you could inspect and or adjust their engagement.0 -
Wow, great responses!
Yes, I have the Wilson Combat adjustable trigger, so I'll check that.
No, I did not stone polish the trigger bow channel. I will.
Yes, adequate clearance between the top/bottom/sides of the trigger where it moves back/forward in the frame.
No, I did not shorten the hammer hooks and leave a burr on the leading edge.
Yes, my grip safety stud is totally clearing the trigger bow when fully depressed.
Yes, the disconnector is going far enough into the slide.
Yes, thumb safety is completely rotating out of the way of the sear.
No, I did not polish the tips of the sear/disconnector springs. I will.
No, I did not polish both sides of the the disconnector 'paddle' along with the rear of the trigger bow. I will.
I will also check the hammer 'strut' is not putting pressure on the disconnector spring when the hammer is cocked.
No, I have not lightly stoned all machined edges. I will.
No, I have not and will not worked the strut or hammer with anything. I'll ruin it if I do, since I don't know how to do it correctly. That's why I bought the deluxe pre-polished ones. I hope to leave them alone as they seem to look and function properly.
No, I have not inserted the magazine yet. so that isn't the problem...at least not yet anyway.
The trigger is not tight to the frame. It glides rather well. I did polish the rails on the trigger, but not the channels on the frame yet.
I'll work the above described areas as you all have suggested. I can see how these suggestions will help.
Thank You very much![:D]0
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