Treating a Leather Holster
I have an old Hunter (3100 R 2) holster that appears to be a very good fit for my 1948 vintage K-22.
The leather isn't cracked and stitching is solid but it just seems dry and "hard". I could use it as-is, but want to presserve it properly and to the extend possible fit it to mirror the contours of my old S&W.
I have saddle soap and neats foot oil, and even recall advocates of soaking the holster in water, wrapping the revolver in a thin coat of saran wrap, and letting it dry in place, then applying the treatment of choice.
So what's the best way to proceed? Not a high quality rig, to be sure, but it seems solid enough and worthy of working with.
Thanks,
Rob
The leather isn't cracked and stitching is solid but it just seems dry and "hard". I could use it as-is, but want to presserve it properly and to the extend possible fit it to mirror the contours of my old S&W.
I have saddle soap and neats foot oil, and even recall advocates of soaking the holster in water, wrapping the revolver in a thin coat of saran wrap, and letting it dry in place, then applying the treatment of choice.
So what's the best way to proceed? Not a high quality rig, to be sure, but it seems solid enough and worthy of working with.
Thanks,
Rob
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Ballistol is a great product and can be used on all metals on wood and great on leather is non toxic BIO DEGRADEABLE can even be used to treat wounds on your hunting dog or your self .[^][^] 0 -
I like Pecard leather dressing.
Neal0 -
Personally, I prefer Lexol products, but the two already mentioned are good. Just stay away from garbage like neetsfoot oil and saddle soap. They're not ph balanced for leathers. They break down the leather fibers and that's the reason they soften/loosen up the leather.
quote:Originally posted by RCrosby
CharlieM., you mentioned wet forming your holster. I'd be interested in any specifics on how you or others did this, pros and cons, etc.
Rob[:D]
Wet forming is easy. Plain kitchen Saran wrap works to wrap the gun. Oil the gun well and put several layers of it on as it tears easier than shippers stretch wrap.
Dampen the leather with water. You don't want it sopping wet, just enough to Loosen the leather up so it will form to the gun. Being careful not to tear the plastic wrap insert the gun into the holster.
I'm too cheap to buy boning sticks, I just use the pad of my thumb to form the leather to the contours of the gun. All that's needed now is to put it aside until the leather dries.
If you use your hands to form wash them well. Any dirt on your hands will transfer to the leather and may leave stains that won't come out.0 -
This the fully lined flapped holster I made for my Jet. Leather was wet formed and dried on the bagged pistol.
Mink oil will soften the leather was too much if used in excess. Once a year on a hot day I rub a very small amount of SnoSeal on the outside. Maybe every 5 years a tiny bit of mink or neat's-foot oil on the entire outside and the inside of the flap. Saddle soap is good stuff.
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Appreciate all the advice on good products; one of which I'll definitely try while looking for alternative uses for my old bottle of saddle soap! ;-)
CharlieM., you mentioned wet forming your holster. I'd be interested in any specifics on how you or others did this, pros and cons, etc.
Rob[:D]0 -
Another Vote for Pecard. I have used it to bring back to life two holsters left in drawers since WWII. 0 -
Thanks for the link, Forgemonkey. That and some Picards will be the plan.
Thanks to all who took an interest and responded0 -
Pecard 0
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