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S&W model 10 firing pin breaking

Comments

7 comments

  • dannej
    The pistol is a Bill Davis Custom PPC gun..
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  • nmyers
    Did you use the correct conical-tip punch on the straight end of the rivet?

    Neal
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  • charliemeyer007
    Where did you get the part? Other than the broken tip did they look the same? Good pic of one here http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/hammer-parts/hammer-blocks/hammer-nose-kit-for-s-w-k-frame-sku713000167-60393-126184.aspx
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  • machine gun moran
    The hammer noses need a certain amount of 'float' to travel straight through the firing pin hole while the hammer is travelling in an arc. A too-rigidly mounted firing pin will break fairly quickly.
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  • dannej
    Got the part at Jack First. Rivet did not move in or out so I think I used the right conical tip punch. The pin moved easily up and down in the hammer. It takes the hammer nose without the spring. Its a model 10-8 and I could see no place for the spring.

    The hole through the frame appears perfectly round and I could see no wear on the sides of the hammer or inside the frame where the hammer falls.

    The first break occurred while dry firing with no snap caps. The second break occurred while dry firing with empty cartridges in the cylinder. (After firing a string, I would repeat by firing on the empties, before reloading).
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  • SP45
    check the firing pin protrusion as well make sure it is not to long
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  • chris8X57
    There are two types of K-frame hammer noses (firing pins); they both pivot on the hammer rivet, however one is spring loaded and one is not.
    Try replacing it with the Model 19 style that is spring loaded. You will need the nose and the spring. A new rivet is recommended also. Check to make sure the nose pivots freely with no bind in the hammer after staking the rivet.

    You should be able to dry fire a K-frame and not have to worry about the nose breaking.
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