Stovepiping problem on FEG PJK-9HP
Two gunsmiths have not been able to get this pistol to reliably eject spent casings. About 10% of the cases hang up like stovepipes. Since the smithies say the gun is OK, could a limp wrist or a weak powder load be the problem? Has anyone else having this model had this problem?
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Might consider, replacement recoil and hammer springs from Wolff. Also try different type(s) of ammo. I personally had problems with the steel case Russian ammo, when it first became available. U.S. made ammo is under powdered, IMHO. Years ago when I owned a Keltec P 32, I ran RWS ammo in it from the fatherland. It seemed more "snappy" and better functioning than U.S. made stuff.
High polish the chamber and throat with flitz on a tight fitting bore mop. Make sure also that the extractor is OK, and functioning correctly.0 -
Have someone else more experienced than you run a box of ammo threw the pistol. Try running your mags with only 3-4 rounds in them several times and see if the issue frequency changes, same drill but only 3-4 rounds out of a full mag.
+1 for load your own ammo tuned to that pistol, or try a box of each factory loads until you find what it likes.
Some autoloaders need to break in before they function more reliably. Polishing, de-burring and stoning can speed up the process. Aftermarket springs can be a good choice, buy 2 so you can modify one and still have a full strength spare.
Proper lubricant in the right places can help.0 -
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
Might consider, replacement recoil and hammer springs from Wolff. Also try different type(s) of ammo. I personally had problems with the steel case Russian ammo, when it first became available. U.S. made ammo is under powdered, IMHO. Years ago when I owned a Keltec P 32, I ran RWS ammo in it from the fatherland. It seemed more "snappy" and better functioning than U.S. made stuff.
High polish the chamber and throat with flitz on a tight fitting bore mop. Make sure also that the extractor is OK, and functioning correctly.
Thank you for your good suggestions. Different ammos have not helped, and I load 9mm almost halfway between "recommended" and "maximum" to get more pop, so my powder load is not weak. I use a bore snake for cleaning but, honestly, I do not know what a bore mop is. Same for flitz. By tomorrow, I will! As problems like this come up, my gun toolbox grows.0 -
quote:Originally posted by pgspears
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
Might consider, replacement recoil and hammer springs from Wolff. Also try different type(s) of ammo. I personally had problems with the steel case Russian ammo, when it first became available. U.S. made ammo is under powdered, IMHO. Years ago when I owned a Keltec P 32, I ran RWS ammo in it from the fatherland. It seemed more "snappy" and better functioning than U.S. made stuff.
High polish the chamber and throat with flitz on a tight fitting bore mop. Make sure also that the extractor is OK, and functioning correctly.
Thank you for your good suggestions. Different ammos have not helped, and I load 9mm almost halfway between "recommended" and "maximum" to get more pop, so my powder load is not weak. I use a bore snake for cleaning but, honestly, I do not know what a bore mop is. Same for flitz. By tomorrow, I will! As problems like this come up, my gun toolbox grows.
Photo of bore mops off the net. Use one that is a tight fit in the chamber, like a 41 caliber one. Saturate it with flitz metal polish, than chuck the shank of the bore mop in a electric drill.
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quote:Originally posted by charliemeyer007
Have someone else more experienced than you run a box of ammo threw the pistol. Try running your mags with only 3-4 rounds in them several times and see if the issue frequency changes, same drill but only 3-4 rounds out of a full mag.
+1 for load your own ammo tuned to that pistol, or try a box of each factory loads until you find what it likes.
Some autoloaders need to break in before they function more reliably. Polishing, de-burring and stoning can speed up the process. Aftermarket springs can be a good choice, buy 2 so you can modify one and still have a full strength spare.
Proper lubricant in the right places can help.
I am still too much of a newbie to understand some of the lingo: By +1, do you mean add 1 grain of powder to recommended load? I reload my own ammo, but know nothing about gunsmithing. Thank you for the suggestion about checking how the mags work fully- or partially-loaded. The rest of the technical suggestions I will give to the gunsmith. Those seem to be advanced procedures that a specialist should do. The pistol has not been fired many times (less than 300 rounds total of various handloaded and manufacturer cartridges) because it is too frustrating to clear the stovepipes. Nevertheless, I tried different manufacturers' ammo without noticeable improvement. Thank you for sharing your experience.0 -
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
quote:Originally posted by pgspears
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
Might consider, replacement recoil and hammer springs from Wolff. Also try different type(s) of ammo. I personally had problems with the steel case Russian ammo, when it first became available. U.S. made ammo is under powdered, IMHO. Years ago when I owned a Keltec P 32, I ran RWS ammo in it from the fatherland. It seemed more "snappy" and better functioning than U.S. made stuff.
High polish the chamber and throat with flitz on a tight fitting bore mop. Make sure also that the extractor is OK, and functioning correctly.
Thank you for your good suggestions. Different ammos have not helped, and I load 9mm almost halfway between "recommended" and "maximum" to get more pop, so my powder load is not weak. I use a bore snake for cleaning but, honestly, I do not know what a bore mop is. Same for flitz. By tomorrow, I will! As problems like this come up, my gun toolbox grows.
Photo of bore mops off the net. Use one that is a tight fit in the chamber, like a 41 caliber one. Saturate it with flitz metal polish, than chuck the shank of the bore mop in a electric drill.
Will do! Thanks for the pics and instructions!0 -
quote:Two gunsmiths have not been able to get this pistol to reliably eject spent casings. About 10% of the cases hang up like stovepipes. Since the smithies say the gun is OK, could a limp wrist or a weak powder load be the problem? Has anyone else having this model had this problem?
First of all "+1" is just board "code" for "I agree with" (IE I'm adding one more voice to that opinion).
On your question, 9mm guns should function fine with normal factory 9mm ammo, and if not, something is wrong. If the problem persists with normal factory ammo, especially more than one type, you'll know its not the loads. If you haven't tried factory BRASS CASE ammo, do so first. That's a pretty easy thing to check/test, and fortunately 9mm ammo isn't hard to come by or all that expensive right now. Pretty much EVERY 9mm gun should run the 124 grain "NATO" type ammo well. . .start with that, if you can get any. If that fixes your problem, you have the answer.
Could "limp wristing" be the problem?
Well, sure it "could". *ANY* semi-auto can "limp wrist" if held loosely enough and "stovepipes" are one potential symptom. I've seen it happen with "perfect" Glocks, and I've even seen it happen with multiple full sized .22LR semi-autos (ie, in the hands of new girl shooters).
Realistically, you're talking about an all steel 9mm gun, and if you're an experienced shooter who has no problem getting other 9mm pistols to cycle during firing, its probably not the case. IE, steel 9mm autos usually aren't that susceptible to this problem.
If you're not an experienced handgunner, you might try loaning your pistol to someone who is for a few magazines to see if they get the same problem.
Assuming this is not the problem either, then there are a few things that could cause your issue. Dirty or worn/bad extractor could do it. Take a good look at the extractor and check it for dirt/wear. Make sure you lift up/out the extractor because dirt can get caught UNDER it.
Tight/dirty chamber is another thing that can cause unreliable extraction. That's where the "Flitz" (its a mild metal polish) comes in.
Make sure your guns mainspring is appropriate. Either too stiff OR too soft of a spring can cause these problems. Too stiff, and gun slide doesn't go back fast enough to reliably eject. Too soft of a spring can alter the gun cycling rate, again leading to reliability issues.
And perhaps before doing ANY of the above, strip the gun down and make sure the gun itself is entirely clean and lubed SPARINGLY with a proper gun-lube (NOT graphite. . .NOT WD40, etc). Anything that retards the motion of the slide can cause ejection issues. When you rack the slide, does it move freely back and forth? Have you tried just racking a magazine full of live rounds out one at a time? (do that AT RANGE, with muzzle pointed in SAFE DIRECTION!).
I've seen any number of guns that show erratic function when dirty or dry, but run perfectly after clean and lube.0 -
I'm suprised that no one here has suggested the most common cause of misfeeds-the magazine.
Try new mags, and your problem is likely to go away.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Bill DeShivs
I'm suprised that no one here has suggested the most common cause of misfeeds-the magazine.
Try new mags, and your problem is likely to go away.
The OP's first post noted his problem, was concerned with the ejection of fired brass.
Your suggestion is worth a try though. I believe this Hungarian made pistol. Used standard Browning H-P magazines. Perhaps the OP will give a original H-P mag a try. To see if it fix's the problem.0 -
Most European 9mm's are sprung for Euro standard loads, which are warmer than U.S. standard loads. Try to find some 9mm NATO loads and try them. If they provide the recoil pulse needed to fully eject the empties then look for U.S. made +p 9mm loads, they approximate the 9mm NATO. 0
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