1911 Extractor Question

MG1890

January 18, 2015 09:46

So, a new Ed Brown extractor will not snap over the rim of a chambered cartridge..... Should it?

If so how do I tune it?

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  rufe-snow

  January 18, 2015 09:57

  1911's have a controlled feed mechanism. As the slide goes forward, into battery. The cartridge is driven forward and upwards. This causes the rim of the cartridge to become trapped. Between the the rear surface of the extractor, and the face of the breech.
  
  If your pistol functions in the above manner, with the Brown extractor? I wouldn't worry about it. If it doesn't, the extractor has to be worked on.
  
  
  
  
  EDIT #1,
  
  Any time you alter the chamfer/radius on the face of the extractor. Or bend/spring the extractor, to alter it's function. You will weaken it to some degree. If the pistol is just used for plinking, or shooting at paper targets. Don't mean squat. If on the other hand, it's used for personal protection. This screwing with the extractor might cause unreliability, during a serious social situation. Keep this in mind.

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  Cheechako

  January 18, 2015 10:26

  You can "tune it" by polishing all surfaces of the extractor hook. That should do it.

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  Txs

  January 18, 2015 12:56

  quote:Originally posted by MG1890
  So, a new Ed Brown extractor will not snap over the rim of a chambered cartridge..... Should it?You shouldn't drop a slide on a round in the chamber any more than you'd open/close a revolver cylinder by flicking your wrist.

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  T J McGill

  January 18, 2015 13:06

  Possibilities, with the violent action that takes place when the pistol is fired, I want to be sure the new round is going to make it into the chamber with the extractor where it needs to be. No, it's not commen practice to load one in the tube and let the slide go home but if one slips and the bullet is under the hood if the extractor can't pivot out of the way your going to have a jam. That's going to suck big time if you need it for real. If you contour the face of the extractor close to but not as much as your hook angle the extractor will slide out of the way of the rim and engage where it needs to. You want to leave as much metal as you can at the tip, this will keep the strength in the extractor, go a little at a time when working the face of the extractor, once you get it to we're the extractor will slip over the case with just a hint of resistance stop there, pull it back out and polish the face to a mirror finish. Once fitted correctly, you should be able to put a round in the chamber, close the slide by hand until the face of the extractor comes into contact with the case, put slight preasure on the back of the slide with your thumb, you should see the extractor pivot out of the way then re engage on the rim. I've done this countless times and haven't had to replace a broken extractor that I've tuned yet.

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  Cheechako

  January 18, 2015 14:48

  MG 1890 didn't ask for a tutorial on the proper way to shoot an M1911. He asked how to tune the extractor to work under all conditions. T.J. McGill gave a good description of how to do that. Like T. J., I have built a lot of pistols, including fine tuning the extractor, and it has always worked for me.
  
  Ray

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  MG1890

  January 18, 2015 15:54

  Thanks, guys. This is the advice I was looking for.

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