Reading about Colts, is this true?
"4. To eliminate scarring your Colt with that damaging drag line on the cylinder is really very easy, here's how. Whenever you have your hammer cocked back for any reason, whether in the safety notch or loading notch before you lower it down always, and I repeat ALWAYS cock the hammer fully to the rear or full cock position and while holding it with your thumb pull the trigger and let it down from the full cock position all the way forward to the frame. This way, while you are cocking the hammer all the way back the bolt will properly index and come up from the frame and contact the cylinder in the little approach cut-out next to the lock notch on the cylinder, instead of popping up on the cylinder halfway in between the notches and dragging an ugly line all the way to the next notch when you turn your cylinder to rotate it into battery. If your Peacemaker is properly timed, following these easy steps will allow you to shoot many thousands of rounds without ever scarring your cylinder with an ugly drag line.
5. If when you cycle your Colt normally you find that your pistol is so far out of time that your bolt is popping up outside of the cylinder approach and causing a drag line on your cylinder don't operate it until you can have a qualified gunsmith repair the problem.
By following these easy steps you can now shoot your prized Colt without worry that you will be carrying your Colt in an unsafe condition or causing expensive damage to your new Peacemaker. "
5. If when you cycle your Colt normally you find that your pistol is so far out of time that your bolt is popping up outside of the cylinder approach and causing a drag line on your cylinder don't operate it until you can have a qualified gunsmith repair the problem.
By following these easy steps you can now shoot your prized Colt without worry that you will be carrying your Colt in an unsafe condition or causing expensive damage to your new Peacemaker. "
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To add to this: Is there any lubricant or wax that will minimize drag lines? 0 -
Very true, it times the stop bolt to the cylinder so no drag [xx(] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by MBK
To add to this: Is there any lubricant or wax that will minimize drag lines?
The only way you can minimize drag lines. Is to pay big bucks to a really pro gunsmith. To adjust the timing so that the bolt doesn't touch the cylinder. Until just prior to lock-up. Unfortunately with any amount of use, this won't be permanent.
It's viable for a pristine revolver that going to be a safe queen. IMHO, Don't waste your money doing this to a shooter.0 -
So much for ask the experts 0 -
Hello mogley 98. I see engineering is your bag. In my opinion Fire-Arms have lots of Compromises when it come to how different parts interact with each other. If you look at an early Colt single action "4 digit serial numbers" you will see that the cylinder has no LEAD to the locking notches so in those pistols it would be near impossible. to adjust the TIMING for no DRAG MARK. If the timing is late the lock misses the cylinder notch all together It has to be early to be able to fall into the notch as soon as possible That is why they "colt" started making a lead to the cylinder notches Colt was not worried about a drag line.
they wanted 100% function . Likewise in semi auto pistols like a COLT 1911 The slide has to go far enough back to allow the magazine spring to have enough time for the cartridge to fully rise to allow the slide as it starts to close to be able to push this cartridge straight into the chamber. That is why a recoil buffer can and dose
sometimes cause jams on a pistol that without the buffer functions 100%. I truly feel COLT wants the cylinder to have the best chance possible to be LOCKED in perfect alinement to the barrel and DRAG line is not important to them or the function of the pistol. YMMV0 -
Forward motion of the hammer causes the bolt to release and pop up from the half-cock position, which is used for loading/unloading/inspecting.
The only rule to follow, is to never lower the hammer from the half-cock position. Instead, pull the hammer to full cock after loading/unloading, etc., which will then properly index the cylinder, and then lower it.
I sold an SAA that I had for 22 years, whose grip straps were worn white. Supposedly knowledgeable people who looked at it agreed that it had been handled very extensively, and also that it appeared to never have been fired, because of the unmarred cylinder. They didn't know that I had put over 30.000 rounds through it. And they obviously didn't know what an SAA looks like when properly handled. [:D]0 -
The factory cylinder lock and trigger spring is unnecessarily stiff.
If you compare cylinder lock pressure between SAA Colts and any S&W
it becomes obvious. Thinning and tapering the leaves doesn't seem to increase their life.
S&W timing releases the lock halfway between lock notches to avoid overrunning the notch. A lighter spring coupled with polishing the lock bolt top retards formation of "ring around the cylinder".
Colt combination springs are very unreliable and break with much use
Music wire aftermarket springs should be more reliable.
In loading the SAA, the trigger is in the half cock notch with the locking bolt retracted, it's normal to lower the hammer into the safety notch instead of full cocking over a loaded chamber and then lowering the hammer into the safety notch.
This is the major cause of the dreaded ring.
Removing the locking bolt and polishing its' top will minimize
scuffing the cylinder.0 -
I'd rather have a single action revolver with honest wear than one with an amateur polish job on the lockwork. 0 -
That wasn't the question.
With a lot of shooting/handling, the stiff SAA combination spring will pound the notch lead-in, debluing and peening it or worse if the cylinder lock drops in earlier.
For a lot of shooting, substituting the music wire combination spring along with polishing the lock top and breaking sharp edges on the lock "button" will make it easiest on your SAA.
Polishing here, means use of rubberized Cratex Dremel wheels.
No sense beating up your SAA or percussion Colt any more than you have to.
There are other things that can and should be done to improve life of both cylinder lock bolt and trigger/cylinder lock spring.
None of this stuff is complicated.0
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