Pitting
I have several Mauser receivers that I am going to paint. What do you guys recommend to fill in the pits with? They are to large to reblue without removing metal. Also what size wire wheel is needed for a matte finish?
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Lauer makes Durafil to apply to rough guns before Duracoat. Kind of a Bondo for Guns.
CAUTION: I have not tried it, just read about it.0 -
Thank you. I have heard that you can use Acraglas and was wondering also about I think it's called Devcon but was wondering about the durability. 0 -
Devcon epoxy is good stuff, proper degreasing and surface prep is the same as any adhesive. 0 -
+1 for really de-greased. Soaked in a really good solvent at least overnight. Warm the bad areas with a propane torch and wipe them again - big pores will sweat.
My favorite matte is done by bead blasting followed by hot salt blue.
I did a Browning BAR that had road rash on the left side from skidding down the road after being left on the roof or something. I didn't get 100% of the scratches out but with the bead blast they were really hard to detect.0 -
I also bead blast with 60 grit then hot blue but I've seen where some people use a wire wheel. I didn't know what diameter wire they were using. Thx for all the info. 0 -
What you fill with depends on the type of cure your paint requires.
For room temp cure Devcon or AcraGlass will work. For a spray on bake on finish I recommend this.
http://www.eastwood.com/hi-temp-lab-metal-24-oz.html
I've had success using it with Brownells TeflonMolly as well as the Eastwood Hotcoat.
As for the wire wheel either of these first two are good.
http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=wire+wheel&ksubmit=y
This probably doesn't need saying, but I'm going to throw it out there anyway. Wire carding won't do anything for a painted surface because the paint will hide the soft surface texture.0 -
I would bead blast with a large grit, then prep, for a Cera-Kote application. You will have the most durable finish on the market. Skip the wire wheel. 0
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