M1 Garand rechambering?????
Are there any tricks to rechambering an M1 Garand with a pull thru reamer?
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Hello - I am far better known for my weakness for turn of the century SXS shotguns - but I have several - that's more than two - bolt action rifles in 30-06. And I have several relatives that have M1-Garands. My question is - why would you want to convert it from one of the most versatile cartridges on earth???? Yes - you are welcome to flame me.
When facing multiple bad guys - first take out the one that is the most dangerous - that is the one with the shotgun!!0 -
Perhaps, I mis-spoke...... I am not actually rechambering this Garand...... the problem is that the aftermarket barrel that was installed will not allow the bolt to close all the way. Different bolts have been tried, to no avail. So the chamber has to be relieved, very so slightly and was wondering if there's any special tips or tricks that would help with a pull thru reamer? 0 -
Hello - CaptFun has an associate - plus there are several others on this forum that are very good with M1-Garands - perhaps one on them will come up on line with the information you need. I know nothing about semi-automatic rifles - Brownings - Remingtons - and Weatherbys semi-automatics shotguns - I might be able to help you on. Best Regards - AQH 0 -
I think all the replacement barrels are short chambered.
http://www.m1-garand-rifle.com/m1-garand-assembly/finish-reaming.php
http://www.ktgunsmith.com/garand_barrels.htm
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/barrel-tools/reamers/centerfire-reamers/pull-through-chamber-reamers-prod5172.aspx0 -
charliemeyer007 .....THANK YOU.....The links were very informative, especially the 1st one![:)] 0 -
I have used a pull reamer on an M1A and it is pretty straight forward. The reamer is inserted and turned by the extension at the muzzle. When the bolt closes, it is done. On thing that surprised me is how little it takes to remove a few thousands of metal. Do not spin the reamer at all once the bolt closes! I did and ended up under no-go, but not as tight as I would have liked.
Go slow, and clean the reamer and bore of chips often. Also use reaming/threading lubricant liberally. Finally, because the chamber walls have to be very smooth to properly extract, you'll have to polish it slightly with some fine emery paper after reaming.0 -
Yes!
1)make sure your bolt is stripped and you go very very slow...it is better to go one turn and clean and gauge check than to ruin a two hundred dollars plus barrel by doing to many turns...besides the more often you clean and reoil the better the cut will be.
2) use a proper cutting oil...wd-40 will not do it. Think a cutting oil you would use with tap and dies.
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3)use clmyer gauges...fosters may be cheaper and fine for most rifles, but with m-1s use cylmers...they are worth the extra cash.
4)before you even start any of this ensure your barrel is properly clocked and that your front sights line up properly and your rifle tilts properly with the oprod installed.
Forgot to add, check your gas port for correct size before complete reassembly.0 -
I've always used Microfinish(TM) when chamber reaming.
Never had any probs.
quote:Originally posted by kidthatsirish
...use a proper cutting oil...wd-40 will not do it. Think a cutting oil you would use with tap and dies.0
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