M1 rifle won't cycle..not even manually
Title says it...I even Removed it out of the stock incase of binding there...does not help.
It will load the first round fine...but trying to manually cycle after that it won't even open the bolt all the way. I have to literally use a hammer and block of wood to hammer it open....after it opens about an inch it can be done by hand...the next round does not always want to come up either...any ideas?
BTW...with spring and follower rod out it passes tilt test just fine.
It will load the first round fine...but trying to manually cycle after that it won't even open the bolt all the way. I have to literally use a hammer and block of wood to hammer it open....after it opens about an inch it can be done by hand...the next round does not always want to come up either...any ideas?
BTW...with spring and follower rod out it passes tilt test just fine.
0
-
Muzzle wear permitting gas to blow past exiting bullet, thus reducing gas pressure below the amount needed to operate the action? 0 -
Gas plug unaltered?
What ammo - load?
Mike0 -
You are trying to fire reloads that you did not full length resize?
You are trying to fire a parts gun assembled by someone unknown to you?
You bought a rifle with a CAI receiver?
This is a new problem with a rifle that used to work fine?
We need some help here.
Neal0 -
I have not attempted to fire the rifle. It will not cycle manually. 0 -
I think you need a hands on inspection by someone that knows an M1. 0 -
My guess is that it needs to be taken completely down, cleaned, and inspected. To further that guess, I suspect that someone has fired this rifle with hot commercial ammunition, and there is a good chance you have a bent op-rod.
Best0 -
quote:Originally posted by nmyers
You are trying to fire reloads that you did not full length resize?
You are trying to fire a parts gun assembled by someone unknown to you?
You bought a rifle with a CAI receiver?
This is a new problem with a rifle that used to work fine?
We need some help here.
Neal
Seen this one before.
Other reloading problem include not crimping and COL issues.0 -
If it passes the tilt test like you said, take a look at the extractor.
I would also take a close look at the chamber, make sure it is clean.
Can you open and close the bolt without the op rod installed?
A few dummy rounds would be handy here, you don't want to have to force the bolt open and closed on live rounds.0 -
The rifle is totally clean and properly greased and oiled. It will not cycle manually. If a fresh enbloc clip of factory loaded ammo is inserted into the rifle regardless if it's in the stock or not, regardless if the trigger group is installed, it will allow the first round to be stripped and chambered,and it will then not want to open. The oprod will come back about a 1/4 inch or less and not want to go any farther and the bolt will stay locked. You literally have to hammer the oprod/bolt open (not good) to get it to open...when you do this the extractor is griping the the rim properly it ejects properly....it does not always want to strip the next round from the clip then. 0 -
Again, what does the extracted case look like? Especially the forward end and shoulder. 0 -
Don't feel too badly. Many a soldier ,including yours truly, has stomped on an operating rod to clear an M1 action.
Gage the barrel-to-gas cylinder fit with ring and plug gages as well as the op rod piston. Replace bad parts a/r. If barrel at gas port is undersize, barrel is ng or could be plated up to size.
If no joy, borrow another op rod.
Never had follower issues then so can't help there.0 -
Just a wild guess, and assuming that the bolt operates normally without a cartridge, is there a notch worn in the receiver that is catching the bolt lugs/worn bolt lugs?
What about wear in the bolt recess where the op-rod engages?0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
12 comments