300 blackout
Looking for 300 blackout surpressed sbr. From what I've read I'm really leaning towards spikes lrs with the surpressor adapter un pinned so I can use different cans if I choose. There's some nice equipment out there but I think this is one of the better ones.
Any thoughts
Thanks
Scott-
Any thoughts
Thanks
Scott-
0
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FWIW
I'd prefer a 14.5" barrel with the adaptor pinned in place(making it 16") and save the SBR stamp fee. Due to the cost, frustration, and wasted time involved with owning legal "cans", I don't see much advantage to the idea of "I can use different cans if I choose".
It's not like buying a car and deciding you don't like it so you trade or resell it.0 -
I got a heck of a deal on a 16" upper from Hardened Arms. Works on ANY lower and with standard 5.56BCG. Has standard threads so you can screw on whatever you want on the end.
I have put many sub MOA groups on paper using their uppers in 300 AAC.0 -
trox32,
I think if you have the money required to do what you state above, you should have at it. There is little any of us can say to dissuade you from your goal.
However, as far as being 'one of the better ones', that's simply one of those innocuous remarks that contain lots of wiggle room for arguments. It doesn't really say anything. But if you want to discuss alternatives I think I can help.
First and foremost, there is an absolute metric ton of quality AR15 equipment and components. From the low cost upwards there is very little if any difference in quality as far as function is concerned. They all have to meet mil-spec qualifications. But the differences can be seen in the exterior or superficial 'look' of the combo upper and lower.
The biggest difference occurs in pricing. We've all seen the Anderson lowers for $49/each, sometimes as low as $39/each on one of those lightning specials. You might find little finishing flaws but the basic function is still the same as those lowers which cost several time this price but function the same. This is what I call the Nosler/Leupold effect for pricing. You simply choose to raise your prices to the top end of the market and claim that yours are the very best which requires the most expensive level of pricing. The best should cost the most, right? Well... not necessarily.
I've seen some of the top semi-auto competitors shooting basically no-name uppers and lowers who finish in the top 10 of major competitions. Why? Because the barrel was top quality and the assembly was done correctly. Not just right but perfect. Surfaces trued, torque specs met, everything straight, true and tight. The trigger was fitted and tuned to perfection AND it was bullet-proof, a no fail trigger. This doesn't account for sponsored shooters though. They HAVE to use the sponsors parts or assemblies because that's who pays the bills.
Suppressors are some the highest profit components used in the firearms industry and that's due to legislation and taxes. You can find a range of suppressors from .22 cal at $200/each up to the top end centerfire suppressors running in excess of $1500+/each. This doesn't include the specialty suppressor though. Make a run over the pond to Great Britain and check out their prices to see what a mark up is really all about. There suppressors are required in many locations to do as they were intended, reduce loud noises.
Sure there are some differences in specifications but the mark ups are huge in some instances. That's what shopping is all about. Look around and see what some of the other makers have to offer and what they charge. Everyone has their favorites, of course. Mine is Silencerco. Great products at slightly more reasonable prices based on performance. Their Harvester model for .30 cal. can be found for as little $659/each. Many of us shoot this model in PRS competitions.
If you aren't having a custom rifle made to your specifications then I suggest that you get the best factory barrel available. These are NOT the same but depend on who the actual maker is. It will take a little extra time but you will get what you want as far as quality is concerned, not some run-of-the-mill piece of junk with a huge mark up.
If you insist on the 300 Blackout then you need to get an adjustable gas block. This can make all the difference in the world when it comes to tuning your loads and maintaining reliability especially with these tiny short barrels. Sure the short barrels might look cool but they can be fraught with all sorts of problems when it comes to getting a proper load tuned to work in that length.
As for loads, there is some factory fodder which can be pretty good as far as accuracy is concerned. Reloading is another ballgame.
I use the Berger 230 Hybrid and the Sierra 240 MK. For powders I suggest looking up the Accurate Powder website for this cartridge, they have some very nice loads for both. I have also found that Tin Star (Vihta Vuori) works extremely good.
Good Luck with your search!
Best.0 -
nononsense,
Thank you for putting the differences in AR parts out there, mostly. (a few that don't meet standards) I agree with you. Assembly is huge in how a firearm will shoot. A good point to pay attention to.
As to not choosing a .300 Blackout, what alternatives do you suggest? As I read the OP's original intent of the rifle to be a SBR suppressed, I see the .300 Blackout as the easiest solution to that. Obviously there are more options. Caveats?
As long as that is said, I also have to say if the rifle (upper) stays in that configuration for that purpose it will do well. However, the .300 BLK is not a long range cartridge by any means. People can get out a ways with them, but it's never, ever as easy as using a cartridge in an upper made to get out a ways.
That said, I have to agree with Mobuck and skip the SBR part. Make the rifle over 16" with the suppressor. With the adaptor permanently fixed so it's legal. If you read the regs, to move an SBR from state to state is a royal pain. Depending on most contiguous states that allow them, you don't have to do that with the suppressor. 2" isn't going to matter when you can put a shorter stock on there to reduce overall length. Stocks, BTW, are measured in the "extended" position. So, as long as it meets that criteria you don't have to worry about getting to short overall.0 -
sandwarrior,
quote:As to not choosing a .300 Blackout, what alternatives do you suggest? As I read the OP's original intent of the rifle to be a SBR suppressed, I see the .300 Blackout as the easiest solution to that.
My intent may have gotten a little garbled when I launched into that dissertation on ARs. I was not intentionally demeaning the .300 BLK as a cartridge or as being useful in this situation. I'm not the world's greatest writer so I sometimes give the impression that I am negative about a subject when in reality I simply didn't get it written as neutral as I would have liked.
Anyway, there is nothing wrong with the .300 BLK. I'm working with a couple right now but I have dismissed the idea of using anything less than a street legal 16" barrel. This stems from the reality of having to tune these little monsters so that they will perform with both reliability and consistency at lengths shorter than 16" throughout their useful barrel life. That's also why I suggested being sure to get an adjustable gas block no matter what. This will go a long way towards being able to tune out some of the slam bang action which takes place with these short barrels.
I certainly understand the desire to have an SBR and I support a client's desire to own and shoot one. My own uses are dedicated to not having to fuss with the system because I want a short barrel.
I also have some more bullets coming which should let me attempt to harvest of a couple of coyotes and maybe a javelina or two... These are supposed to be expansive down to about 900 fps. My load work up says I should be good out to nearly 300 yards if I can manage the bullet drop. I need to try out the BREVIS suppressor to check it's performance. It is 5" long and weighs 19 ounces. Should be pretty good for either hunt.
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trox and sandwarrior,
In conjunction with the above explanations about SBRs and the need for adjustable gas blocks, I am posting an article about these same components based on the experience of others. This will give a slightly longer explanation and opinions from others rather than just a singular viewpoint.
Yes they are more expensive than a standard gas block and they do need attention on occasion but the benefits far outweigh the detractions.
http://tinyurl.com/jyq6ls6
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I really don't understand what the fuss is all about. I own three 300 Blackouts. One is a Remington 7 bolt action that is threaded for a suppressor, a 16" carbine with carbine gas tube and an 8.5" length upper with pistol length gas tube. Both the AR's cycle every time with or without a suppressor using AA1680 powder and 208gr Hornady and 225gr Hornady. I don't have an adjustable gas block and never have any problems cycling. All 3 rifles group 1/2"-3/4" @50 yards all day with the right wind conditions. 0 -
Great tip! I had never heard of them . I called and spoke with the GM the other day for an hour. Great responses from everyone here. I really appreciate it.
quote:Originally posted by chiefr
I got a heck of a deal on a 16" upper from Hardened Arms. Works on ANY lower and with standard 5.56BCG. Has standard threads so you can screw on whatever you want on the end.
I have put many sub MOA groups on paper using their uppers in 300 AAC.0 -
bigborefan,
What I've found and possibly nononsense as well, the problem arises more when going from heavy subsonic rounds to the lightest bullets you can push the fastest. And, still maintain a high degree of accuracy.
I have full faith your model 7 will be accurate under most all velocities you will see with the .300 BLK. I think you would see a change going from the aforementioned heavy subsonics to the lighter faster 110-135 gr. range. In an AR it's the byproduct of how much the gas system may affect POI. From what I've seen, they do change a pretty fair amount.
nn,
I was wondering about that. I love the fact that an AR is so flexible. And the number of AR's I've seen rounds chambered in it, and worked with is amazing. Lots and lots of cool stuff out there. But, I have to admit, the easiest one to get working is the .300 BLK/Whisper (for a heavy suppressed round). My "caveats?" question was directed more at anything you thought unique in this realm of heavy/suppressed. All options on the table if you want.[:D][;)]0 -
Sandwarrior, I agree with what you are saying. My 8.5" AR is strictly used for my subsonic Blackout while my carbine length is strictly used for the lighter bullets. Works out well for me. The 8.5" barrel is 1 in 7 twist while the carbine length is 1 in 9. I run 125gr and 135gr Sierra. 0
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