cold bluing
I'm thinking about trying a cold blue product like Blue Wonder or Brownells 44/40. I need some opinions on these or some other product.
0
-
Are there any cold bluing solutions out there that will wear as well as a hot blue? 0 -
Brownells Oxpho Blue.
You need to follow directions to the letter though.
quote:Originally posted by AdamsQuailHunter
Hello - I am voting with the other two members. I use both the bluing and the heat gun. Birchwood Casey Super Blue is a very distant second but if it has to be done TODAY and the good stuff isn't handy it can be used. Best - AQH
Have you tried Brownells 44/40?
IME it's much easier to work with and more durable.
quote:Originally posted by Rocklobster
Ditto on the Oxpho Blue. Patience is the watchword. Wipe on, wipe off, burnish with 0000 steel wool. The more reps, the better it looks.
I stopped using steel wool in favor of one of these arbor mounted to a 1/3 horse motor.
http://tinyurl.com/jhwpame
ooops, wrong one.
http://tinyurl.com/jjst2wa0 -
quote:Originally posted by asphalt cowboy
Brownells Oxpho Blue.
You need to follow directions to the letter though.
+1 a heat gun is real handy. Warm parts blue much better than cold.0 -
Hello - I am voting with the other two members. I use both the bluing and the heat gun. Birchwood Casey Super Blue is a very distant second but if it has to be done TODAY and the good stuff isn't handy it can be used. Best - AQH 0 -
Ditto on the Oxpho Blue. Patience is the watchword. Wipe on, wipe off, burnish with 0000 steel wool. The more reps, the better it looks. 0 -
I've tried them all and really like G96 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Tflogger
quote:Originally posted by asphalt cowboy
Brownells Oxpho Blue.
You need to follow directions to the letter though.
+1 a heat gun is real handy. Warm parts blue much better than cold.
I'm in agreement with Tflogger. I heat the parts up to the point where I can barely hold them. I then wash on Brownell's Oxfo-Blue in the liquid form. It dries almost instantly with the heat. I heat the part up again and repeat the process. After this 2nd coat dries, I neutralize the part with water, dry it, and then I spray it thoroughly with Rem-oil and brush the entire piece with a soft tooth brush. I then burnish it with 0000 steel wool. It turns out pretty good for cold bluing. In my opinion, Brownell's Oxpho-Blue is the best cold bluing solution out there, and I've virtually tried them all.
buttplate0 -
Have had good results with Oxpho and Blue Wonder. The key is metal prep- no product will take the place of that. Polish well, degrease, warm metal, apply bluing. If you use steel wool to apply the bluing, the chemicals are trying to blue the steel wool instead of the gun- and most steel wool has some oil in it. Some steels react better than others to cold bluing. Once you degrease the metal, do not touch with bare hands. It is still not a hot caustic blue, but it can come darned close if applied right. 0 -
none are worth the powder to blow them to hell....cleaning solutions wash them off.....and they wear off almost quicker than they go on....really not worth the effort.... 0 -
As others have said, Oxpho-Blu works very well for those who know how to use it properly. It doesn't work so well if you just wipe it on over old bluing, but if you get the old bluing off and get the metal really clean and warm, Oxpho-Blu leaves a blue-black finish almost instantly. It's probably not the match of hot blue, but if you're working on, say, the metal on an old singleshot that's only worth $150 or so, Oxpho is a practical alternative to expensive cold blue. 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
10 comments