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Ruger sp101 vs SW 63

Comments

10 comments

  • charliemeyer007
    I vote S&W if you get to look at it first. It's pennies a day to own a pistol over it's lifetime, so the $100 is a mute point in my book. S&W are tunable, some of Ruger's designs not so much.

    added The original 22/32 kit guns were sweet to carry and shot good.

    I bought a k-22 classic, 6" barrel as trainer for other people. It was a 6 shot with a full under lug thus very heavy. Zero recoil and shot wonderfully. I got out of 22 rimfire when I scored a model 53 Jet. It's also has a 6" barrel. A lot lighter than the classic, yet still zero recoil even with full tilt Jet's. Muzzle blast is ear plugs and muffs. People freak when they feel the shockwave on the whole front of there body when it goes off. I could shoot the necks off quart beer bottles at 50 yards then shoot the rest of the bottle. I mostly shoot cast bullets in it now.

    Years later I got my uncle's Hi Standard HD Military when my dad no longer needed it. I could shoot the centers out of clay birds at 100 yards with frightening regularity with it. I have a 2" model 60. 1 gallon milk jugs at 100 yards were a piece of cake. Not bad for fixed sights, but they are .1"

    As far as I can tell after many thousands of pistol rounds, barrel length isn't the only or most important factor in accuracy.
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  • rufe-snow
    I had one of the original SP101's. It's been a number of years now, since I cut it loose. What impressed me over the other 22 revolvers, that I've owned over the years. Was that it extracted and ejected the fired .22 brass easily.

    No comparison with a S & W Model 34, that I had also owned. I use to take a small plastic hammer with me when I shot the 34. Even firing the first 6 shots from a clean revolver. I had to use the plastic hammer to persuade the brass to extract and eject.

    The barrel on the Ruger 101 fouled quickly though. Depending on the quality of the ammo. I had to use a bore brush every 18 rounds. To keep it from keyholing.

    If possible test fire both of them. Before making a final decision.
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  • Mobuck
    SP101 is way overbuilt for a 22(or even 38). Like driving an Abrams tank to get groceries BUT you'll never hurt it using it that way. Ruger will likely not be as "smooth" as S&W(that's where the extra $100 comes in).
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  • nmyers
    I had a M63 that I used for the same purpose. I installed target stocks, & had my gunsmith do the following: install wide trigger, install Woolf springs, & hone the action. It was not only much easier to shoot, but accuracy improved.

    Now if I can only get the grandkids to give it back.....

    Neal
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  • tsr1965
    If you really want something, scrap the "NEW" idea, and look for yourself a good old pinned and recessed Model 63. They are the best out there. They are worth the extra jingle they command. In comparison, the New Ruger, and S&W 8 shot small frame guns, are Junk...I have had all 3, and got rid of the two new ones.

    EDIT 1

    Just to clarify, the Ruger SP 101, is made on their version of the K frame from S&W, so it is going to be heavier. I had the 4.2 inch model, and immediately done a DA job on it after I got it. It was OK, but it is definitely not a S&W.

    The newer 8 shot S&W's with the lock, while better than the Ruger, IMO, are still junk in comparison to the older S&W 63's. However, if weight is a factor, and you insist on NEW, then I might suggest going to the NEWER S&W 317, which is an alloy frame, and tips in at around 15 ounces.

    EDIT 2

    That 317 comes in a snubby, and a 3 or 4 inch adjustable sight version.
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  • dunbarboyz
    The SP101 trigger is terrible out of the box.
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  • iceracerx
    I'm a real fan of older (pre-lock) S&Ws. That being said, I'd opt for the revolver with the longer barrel. It's much easier to hit the target with longer barrel than a shorter one (Snub lengths are the worst IMO).

    Most instructors teach students to shoot revolvers single action as they learn the basics of marksmanship. Double action training can come after they've mastered the basics.

    Single action training allows the student to concentrate on sight alignment/sight picture instead of fighting the double action pull at the same time.

    +1 for the Ruger
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  • He Dog
    quote:Originally posted by iceracerx
    I'm a real fan of older (pre-lock) S&Ws. That being said, I'd opt for the revolver with the longer barrel. It's much easier to hit the target with longer barrel than a shorter one (Snub lengths are the worst IMO).

    Most instructors teach students to shoot revolvers single action as they learn the basics of marksmanship. Double action training can come after they've mastered the basics.

    Single action training allows the student to concentrate on sight alignment/sight picture instead of fighting the double action pull at the same time.

    +1 for the Ruger


    +1, but I would make the Ruger a Single Six or Bearcat depending upon the ages.
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  • tone59
    charliemeyer007...
    I agree.The $100 is really not an issue.
    I am leaning hard towards the 63.

    He Dog...
    We would always begin in single action.
    I don't really consider a 3in. a snubby.

    I have trained with my beloved SA Colt new frontier in 22lr.
    It has a 7.5in barrel and is very accurate.
    I thought the time spent loading and ejecting was a little bit of a turn off for the trainee.
    A swing out cylinder on an 8 rounder should allow for more shots down range in the same amount of time.

    The weight of the 317 seems nice as a pocket gun.
    A SW 642 DAO fills that place.
    As much as I like the K-frame 617 10 shooter its near N-frame weight is a bit heavy.
    The early 63s are really great guns but only 6 rds.
    Wish the early ones held 8rds. or some new models came with a 4in. barrel.
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  • savage170
    If you run across a H&R 922 got one for my nephew years ago I'd hate to guess how many rounds he has put thru that gun. Got my model mixed up it was the 999 Sportsman that I got him
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