Need help with an old H&R top break revolver
I have an old H&R 1896 revolver in 32 S&W long that I want to put a few rounds through but the cylinder timing isn't working correctly when you cock it it spins and lines up almost perfectly with the barrel but the cylinder will easily move back some and be out of alignment. I think its the trigger assy that comes up from the bottom but I'm not sure. I'm hoping some one could tell me what part would need replaced to fix that issue. Also what model is it I looked at Numrich and I believe it is a old model large frame automatic. Only markings are on top the barrel with the H&R name and Worchester, Mass along with Patent dates are Oct. 4 87, May 14th & Aug 6 89, April 2nd 95, April 7, 1896 only thing else is the serial number under the grips.
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There appears to be substantial wear on the ratchet surfaces in your 3rd photo.
Given the age of the revolver this is not surprising. If the "hand", "locking bolt", and ratchet are worn. It would cause the problem(s) you describe.
Unfortunately these are not just drop in parts. Replacements have to be hand fitted by a knowledgeable gunsmith. To insure timing and lockup are correct. So that the H & R, would be safe to fire.
Not worth buying replacement parts IMHO. Between their cost, and what you would have to pay a gunsmith. The price would be way more than the revolver is worth.0 -
So I would suggest you take it completely apart and clean out the dried gunk that is preventing the bolt from protruding out of the frame enough to fully engage the cylinder notch. I doubt it was shot enough to wear it out, but someone dry firing at the TV for years could easily wear the unit out. H&R were the best of the cheapies.
It will not be worth paying someone to fix it or fit new parts if you could find any. DIY with an electric welder and a Dremel tool could replace some worn away metal. You could also try peening the hand to lengthen it a little to help the cylinder rotate far enough to allow the bolt to lock.0 -
try the action both in single and double action to see if it works the same both ways and let me know.
I have found some that will work one way but not the other.0 -
You might check to see if the lock-up tightens just before the hammer would be contacting the primer. Draw the hammer to full-cock then use your thumb to slow the fall as you pull the trigger just as the hammer nose enters the frame cut test the cylinder to see if it has locked, that is the most critical time for locking and some of the older lower priced revolvers got just enough added spring pressure on the cylinder bolt to fully lock it. It still won't be a revolver that you want to try rapid fire or extended firing with as it will probably shave quite a bit of lead. 0 -
they can work with broken parts in them for years until you take them apart an they quit working. some are easy to fix so are a night mare. will look an see if i have any of that model left that i can get yuo a set of internal parts. 0
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