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Kimber 22 rimfire auto?

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6 comments

  • charliemeyer007
    You could use like a trigger pull gauge on the bolt knob after cocking it. A string and weights attached to the bolt knob. A jig with a guide rod and a platform to stack weights on while measuring the deflection will yield the best test results.

    Grinding off one full at a time is how I fit coil springs.

    Not a lot info for your Kimber model 22

    Measure your existing spring then see how close you can get
    http://www.acxesspring.com/spring-calculator.html
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  • pip5255
    check with www.gunsprings.com
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  • perry shooter
    In my opinion cutting coils off a spring is the WRONG way to go about getting weaker recoil ammo to function you may have other problems cutting a coil will reduce what it take to fully cycle the slide but may result in Not enough force to fully chamber a round . one problem cure may cause another problem I would get a LIGHTER spring but full length I modify hammers to allow lighter loads to WORK NOT THE ORIGINAL HAMMER but an aftermarket one you can also buy lighter main spring that go into mainspring housing remember it takes a lot of recoil energy to cock a hammer pull the slide back with hammer down and then do same with hammer cocked big difference
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  • rufe-snow
    I have a number of guns with the same problem. CCI makes the best ammo for functioning purposes in them.

    Tactical, Mini-Mags and Blazers are the 3 different types. I always try to get my hands on.

    Remington Golden Bullets and the new Thunderbolts, also work OK. Remington seems to have fixed their problem(s), with the Thunderbolts. They don't foul the barrels like the old ones did.

    I have also heard that Federal Cartridge, is making .22 Blazers for CCI now. Given the problems I have had with Federal 22's, in the past. I wouldn't bet that they function the guns. Like the CCI made Blazers do.
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  • tsr1965
    quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
    In my opinion cutting coils off a spring is the WRONG way to go about getting weaker recoil ammo to function you may have other problems cutting a coil will reduce what it take to fully cycle the slide but may result in Not enough force to fully chamber a round . one problem cure may cause another problem I would get a LIGHTER spring but full length I modify hammers to allow lighter loads to WORK NOT THE ORIGINAL HAMMER but an aftermarket one you can also buy lighter main spring that go into mainspring housing remember it takes a lot of recoil energy to cock a hammer pull the slide back with hammer down and then do same with hammer cocked big difference


    +1, I agree. Cutting coils does NOT reduce the spring rate, it just reduces the pre load. You might call Kimber and ask what rate spring they use in that, then try to find one that is about 10% weaker, and work your way down to get to where you need to be. I am sure they put an upper end spring in there, incase some nimrod decided to shoot a steady diet of the other stuff, that the aluminum slide would not beat itself to death.

    Coil Springs are usually rated at a weight/linear measurement, designation, meaning how much weight to move the spring a certain distance. Yours would be in pounds per inch, which is the standard American term. As such we usually leave off the inch, and just use the term pound(s).

    Best

    EDIT 1
    quote:quote:Originally posted by Grasshopper
    What the heck model of semi auto you have? I have had several Kimbers but no semi?


    It is a 1911, with a 22 LR upper on it.
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  • rufe-snow
    The fail to fire problem, might also be caused by to weak of a recoil spring, Rather than the to heavier.

    Recently I've worked on (2) .22 conversion units. Rock Island XT, and Kimber target, made by Ciener..

    Had continual fail to fire problems, with certain ammo. Went to the local hardware store and got larger I.D. springs. They fit over the original recoil spring. Functioning to increase recoil spring tension.

    Worked in both pistols. But required high speed ammo,like Golden Bullets for positive function.
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