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Mod. 94 stock

Comments

8 comments

  • charliemeyer007
    Just do a nice job of gluing up your stock, maybe add a few reinforcing pins.

    I'm sure you can obtain a nice matching set from the aftermarket stock people.

    https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/product-configurator/

    forend $46 buttstock $65

    https://www.macongunstocks.com/

    added Might look threw these. Some lack good desctiptions I'd ask before bidding.

    http://www.GunBroker.com/Rifle-Stocks/BI.aspx?Keywords=winchester+94+&Sort=13

    added2 Thanks for the follow up.
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  • notnow
    Ok charlie, thanks. I checked out Boyds but they weren't real specific on the model variations like I mentioned. I'll try calling them. The other place I've never heard of so thanks again. I bought this gun for $175. There's no rust on it. But there's a row of 5 wood screws down the side of the stock. Kinda beyond reasonable repair. This whole thing started when I bought a #2 tang sight for $5 at Gander Mountain when they were closing down.
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  • asphalt cowboy
    Try contacting Donnie to see what they have.

    SHOW-ME GUNSTOCKS, INC,
    PO BOX 97, 19557 QUAIL RIDGE ROAD, WARSAW, MO 65355.
    PHONE: 660-438-4568,
    FAX: 660-438-4569,
    EMAIL: GUNSTOCK@EMBARQMAIL.COM.
    OWNERS: DONNIE AND DIANE GEMES
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  • NeoBlackdog
    IIRC the Ranger is the 'economy' version of the 94 and regular 94 stock should fit.
    If I was you I'd jump on the auction below.
    http://www.GunBroker.com/item/709459024
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  • notnow
    Wow, thanks guys.
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  • Kenneth Stuart
    I've repaired cracked stocks, which were in pieces sometimes or cracked to the extent that they seemed un-recoverable, to where you could not tell if they had been cracked at all. Here's what I do:
    1. clean inside and around the stock crack using cotton qtips dipped in acetone several times and let dry
    2. mask of the area around the crack with masking tape for two inches at least
    3. collect some (i.e., a small pile of) wood saw dust via sanding the wood under the butt plate
    4. determine if there is a way to put pressure on the wood to close the crack - sometimes you find that wood clamps, padded vice, rubber hose, etc. work - other times it is impossible to apply pressure to slightly close the crack
    5. take some devcon two part "two-ton slow cure" epoxy and mix it according to instructions and then thoroughly mix the saw dust with the "slow cure" devcon two ton epoxy
    6. using your clean finger tips push the epoxy-wood mixture into the crack and keep pushing it into the crack, wipe your fingers off with isopropyl alcohol
    7. apply pressure around the crack and then relieve the pressure using whatever device from 5 to essentially close and open the crack - this will cause a sucking action and work the epoxy-wood mixture deeper into the crack - at this point you could use your finger tips to work the mixture into the crack
    8. wipe off any excess epoxy-wood mixture around the crack/masking "not in the crack" with the isopropyl alcohol
    9. if you were able to apply pressure around the crack then apply a little pressure and set the stock to dry oriented so that gravity wont cause any running of the epoxy-wood mixture and let dry it for 24 hours
    10. afterwards, remove the masking around the crack and sand the crack and surrounding wood with finer grades of sand paper with a drop of linseed oil
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  • notnow
    Well, I went with Gunstocks Inc. The reason was, I called them and an actual human voice answered. $82.00+ for butt and forend. Clean clear walnut. No branch knots. Ordered Wednesday... delivered Saturday. I'll give them 5 out of 5 stars. Like I said I wanted to be sure of fit because of all the model variations. The old guy I talked with on the phone cleared it all up fast.
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