Converting a 1911 to 40 Cal
Considering the above conversion. Not sure why but I am. Other than the slide, barrel and magazine, what other parts would be needed?
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Recoil spring. A 10mm would be a lot more interesting to me. The Gun Talk guy had a special edition run of some brand.
https://www.ammoland.com/2010/10/the-kimber-gun-talk-10mm-1911/#axzz4y9f0Ciwt
Since you are reading this thank a teacher. Since you are reading this in english thank a veteran.0 -
If you are going to do this you could use the slide set up for the 10mm as the case heads are the same size. Have you considered just going to the 10mm and using a 16 pound recoil spring with 40 level loads and a 20 pound spring for full house 10's? Brass is scarcer and a bit more expensive, but this would give you some more versatility. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by 62fuelie
If you are going to do this you could use the slide set up for the 10mm as the case heads are the same size. Have you considered just going to the 10mm and using a 16 pound recoil spring with 40 level loads and a 20 pound spring for full house 10's? Brass is scarcer and a bit more expensive, but this would give you some more versatility.
I hadn't until now.0 -
.40S&W would make a nice plinker (cheaper than .45ACP and much cheaper than 10mm). Depending on the 1911 10mm might be much. Say an aluminum frame wouldn't last long with the 10mm. Also some cast frames might not fare well either with the 10mm.
Think about reloading both .40S&W and especially 10mm. Save the brass in all cases. Load-X in California will load for you if you send them the shells. So I'm sure someone in your state or in your neck of the woods will do the same. Until you're ready to reload for your self.0 -
Just buy one and save yourself the headache of tweaking an tuning until it runs right.
http://www.GunBroker.com/item/7167546780 -
quote:Originally posted by yoshmyster
.40S&W would make a nice plinker (cheaper than .45ACP and much cheaper than 10mm). Depending on the 1911 10mm might be much. Say an aluminum frame wouldn't last long with the 10mm. Also some cast frames might not fare well either with the 10mm.
Think about reloading both .40S&W and especially 10mm. Save the brass in all cases. Load-X in California will load for you if you send them the shells. So I'm sure someone in your state or in your neck of the woods will do the same. Until you're ready to reload for your self.
10 mm ammo varies substantially. The original loaded for the Bren 10, of the 1980's, (I believe by Norma?). Was way hot, ugly on both shooting, and on impact. Modern commercially, loaded fMJ, (Remington UMC, etc.), economy loads, not so much.
Although a lot of folks don't like them. Using a buffer, would prevent a lot of battering to the frame. If hot loads were your thing.0 -
useing the right recoil spring heavy spring for heavy loads will take care or the frame better than a" plastic[V] buffer" 0 -
quote:Originally posted by NeoBlackdog
Just buy one and save yourself the headache of tweaking an tuning until it runs right.
http://www.GunBroker.com/item/716754678
I like that one.0
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