BHP Barrel
I purchased a 357 Sig barrel for my 40 Caliber BHP MkIII. Required a bit of fitting but nothing more than cleaning up some sharp edges. The barrel, for some reason, is 6" long and needs to be cut back. The steel is hard as hell and I'd like a suggestion as to what to use, preferably a hand tool or blade.
I have the tools, pilot & cutters needed to crown and finish. I've done enough barrels to know what I can and can't do. I'd like a hand tool that helps me get through the barrel cleanly and neatly.
I have the tools, pilot & cutters needed to crown and finish. I've done enough barrels to know what I can and can't do. I'd like a hand tool that helps me get through the barrel cleanly and neatly.
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I bought one of Lone Wolf's 10 mm Glock 20 barrels, with a muzzle brake. Didn't like the brake, so cut it off with a hack saw. Made of stainless, not difficult to cut.
To make sure your cut is straight. Wrap duct tape evenly around the barrel. So you will have a guide, to make a even cut. If your barrel's steel is to hard for a hacksaw? Use a resin cut off wheel in a Dremel.
Make sure to leave extra stock. To square up the barrel. Even with the tape guide, there will be some unevenness. Put a sheet of emery cloth, on a piece of plate glass. Hold the barrel vertical with the muzzle down on the emery cloth. Carefully rotate the barrel in circles. Until the cut barrel muzzle, is trued up square. Going slowly and check the muzzle often, to make sure that it is truing up square as possible.0 -
If you have an Olympic Arms .357 Sig HP barrel, then use a hacksaw to cut the extra length off. Just use the edge of a vise as a guide, then finish with a sharp file and polish after crowning. That is what I did.
Get a buffer technologies buffer and a Wolff 22 pound recoil spring for your Hi-Power when you use the .357 Sig barrel. My pistol battered the slide and frame without the buffer so badly it was difficult to remove the barrel.
The buffer and 22 pound spring combo works, no more slide peening the frame.
I did have a 26 pound mainspring installed, but had to increase to a 30 pound mainspring. Factory is 32 pounds, so if you still have the factory mainspring installed then you are good to go.
If you reload I recommend a Lee 358-125-rf bullet sized to .357 and powder coated over a charge of 8gr Alliant Power Pistol is a great load. [:)]
Contrary to Internet rumor and BS, you CAN neck down .40S&W brass to .357 Sig. The brass will be shorter, but works great for the cast bullet loads. I have fired over a thousand and counting![:)]0 -
Thanks for the info. I use a collett that slips over the barrel to ensure a straight up & down cut. Not exactly high tech but clamped in place it always works. I enjoy the actual crowning, it's so exacting and I like seeing the progress and result. I'm think the 11 degree would look neat, there's enough "meat" on the barrel for it to show a nice slope in.
I have the factory spring in place. I reload & am set up for 357 Sig. I'm not loving it though, bit of a PITA finding the right bullet style. Finally found some 125 FP lead for it.
CDNN had 357 Sig ammo on sale a while back, $16.00 per 50. I got lazy and used that instead of reloading.0 -
quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
Thanks for the info. I use a collett that slips over the barrel to ensure a straight up & down cut. Not exactly high tech but clamped in place it always works. I enjoy the actual crowning, it's so exacting and I like seeing the progress and result. I'm think the 11 degree would look neat, there's enough "meat" on the barrel for it to show a nice slope in.
I have the factory spring in place. I reload & am set up for 357 Sig. I'm not loving it though, bit of a PITA finding the right bullet style. Finally found some 125 FP lead for it.
CDNN had 357 Sig ammo on sale a while back, $16.00 per 50. I got lazy and used that instead of reloading.
I bought a bunch of that Hornady 147gr also. I think it is a touch watered down, but it is good brass anyway. I have tried AA#9 And Power Pistol, both are very good but I prefer Power Pistol.
I powder coat the cast Lee 358-125-RF and size to .357. Very accurate and feeds great. If you don't have a case gauge get one, Wilson makes one. I also like to put a bevel on the case mouth and give a slight bell before seating. A light crimp with the Lee FCD works great. I have not had any setback with cast or jacketed bullets. If you don't want to lube your brass resize with a .40S&W die then neck down with the .357 sig die. I load .357 Sig on a Dillon 550, works great![:)]0
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