Die rings with locking set screws
On my Lee Classic 4 hole turret I don't normally need die locking rings with set screws because I don't remove the dies from the turret plates on most of the calibers I load for. They stay in place already adjusted but I do have a couple of calibers that I remove dies from the turret plates and it's a pain to readjust them when I reinstall them.
I have tried a couple of different companies locking rings with set screws but they're to big and only have one set screw so I really can't use them on a turret due to clearance of the other dies and you can't get to the set screw if it's on the inside without removing the other dies in order to use an Allen wrench on them.
So I, having lots and lots of spare time with this retirement thing, decided to modify some of Dillon's small locking rings. I drilled and tapped a couple of them and installed Allen head set screws to see if it would work and they do. I just put one set screw in to start with and I'll put another one on the other side next but I think I might go up one size set screw to a #6 instead of the #4 because I've already broke one of the small #40 taps for the #4 set screw.
Any who that's what I'm doing today while I'm waiting on the ultra sonic cleaner to clean the carburetor for my Honda trail bike that's been setting for a number of years.
I have tried a couple of different companies locking rings with set screws but they're to big and only have one set screw so I really can't use them on a turret due to clearance of the other dies and you can't get to the set screw if it's on the inside without removing the other dies in order to use an Allen wrench on them.
So I, having lots and lots of spare time with this retirement thing, decided to modify some of Dillon's small locking rings. I drilled and tapped a couple of them and installed Allen head set screws to see if it would work and they do. I just put one set screw in to start with and I'll put another one on the other side next but I think I might go up one size set screw to a #6 instead of the #4 because I've already broke one of the small #40 taps for the #4 set screw.
Any who that's what I'm doing today while I'm waiting on the ultra sonic cleaner to clean the carburetor for my Honda trail bike that's been setting for a number of years.
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Another option is to use a second nut as a jam nut: that is, tighten one against the other. BTW, since you mentioned cleaning a carb, be aware that modern gasoline is horrible stuff when it dries up, leaving solid deposits that nothing will dissolve. Sometimes cleaning out a tiny jet orifice involves carefully using a small wire to work out the deposit. I have an older Kawi wheeler with a jet so tiny that a small enough wire couldn't be found. The only solution was replacement of the jet. 0 -
On RCBS, at least, there is a small pellet of lead between the nose of the allen screw and the threads to keep the die threads from being damaged. That's why it helps to take a piece of 1" dowel and hit the die lock ring on the side opposite the allen screw to loosen the lead piece. 0 -
There are steel set screws with nylon or brass ends to prevent buggering up the die threads. Buy em by the bag/box full and you can thank me later.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=16ydgpb
https://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=16ydi7u
https://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=16ydifp0 -
cut open a shot shell and take one lead pellet to put between end of screw & the die 0 -
Nice work! Great pic's. A lead bb is good for people that wrench everything down to tight, it's not like you are adjusting the position daily.
My Herders collet bullet puller would lock the ring down really tight. A 10" Crescent wrench was too small to fit the nut, so I drilled and tap the nut to use the operating shaft lever - no tools required to remove the unit.0 -
Have used the "b.b." spacers to good effect but my favorite is the RCBS split rings! 0
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