Skip to main content
Help Center Community Shop

Electrical ?

Comments

18 comments

  • dav1965
    this is what I need in a ac to battery adapter
    input 120 v AC 60 Hz 120 mA
    this is what I have
    120 v 60 Hz 5w.......... s690 6-9VDC 0.9 watts
    will it work?
    thanks
    0
  • JimmyJack
    Run length? Aluminum or copper? I think you need to talk to an electrician. A shop without 220 is substandard.
    0
  • DirtyDawg
    more info needed. how many amps to sub panel, running copper or aluminum, distance???

    Pics of both would help
    0
  • Okie743
    You are WRONG!

    Get a electrician.

    Too technical to explain.

    A man has to know his limitations, Dirty Harry.
    0
  • dav1965
    The wire is aluminum #2 and the distance is 300 feet.
    0
  • redneckandy
    quote:Originally posted by Okie743
    You are WRONG!

    Get a electrician.

    Too technical to explain.

    A man has to know his limitations, Dirty Harry.

    +1
    0
  • jimdeere
    Do NOT bond the ground buss to the neutral buss in the sub panel. When I get back, I?ll reference the appropriate NEC article.
    0
  • diver-rig
    quote:Originally posted by jimdeere
    Do NOT bond the ground buss to the neutral buss in the sub panel. When I get back, I?ll reference the appropriate NEC article.


    Very correct, don?t do it.
    0
  • roswellnative
    be careful dav. I will mess with plumbing but not electrical.
    0
  • firstharmonic
    "however my sub panel has the neutral and ground tied together" This is wrong. They should always be separated/isolated in a sub panel. Otherwise you are paralleling the neutral and the ground going back to your main panel and that ground wire becomes a current carrying conductor.

    If that sub panel is a 240 volt panel - and it sounds like it is - it requires four wires - two "hots" if that's what you wish to call them, a ground wire and a neutral wire. There ARE ways to use aluminum wire safely but you'd better know what you're doing. We don't know each other so please forgive me for saying this but you really do sound like you're out of your depth.
    0
  • dav1965
    If you open the sub panel the way the box is made they have the neutral and ground tied together from the factory.

    I understand there should be 4 wires going to the sub panel. 2 hots 1 neutral and ground.

    My ? was what do you do when the neutral and the ground is tied together in the new sub panel.

    The sub panel is square d. 100 amps.
    0
  • pip5255
    quote:Originally posted by dav1965
    The wire is aluminum #2 and the distance is 300 feet.


    your house is 300 feet long ?????????

    your service wire from your house panel to feed your sub panel needs to be on a breaker in main panel sized accordingly for your new sub panel then you size your wire to that and your distance to panel, your runs from the sub panel to your other buildings get sized based on their distances as branch circuits.
    make sure you qualify for the sub panel = hook up an amp meter on your main breaker in main panel turn on all electrical devices as possible and measure amp draw on both legs total draw = both amp measurements divided by 2 and that must equal less then 50% of the main breaker before you can even qualify for the sub panel use.


    if you qualify for the sub panel then use a service wire rated for your sub panel breaker size, I would use say a 100 amp breaker in main panel to feed a 100 amp main breaker in weatherproof sub panel and the service wire would be rated for the 100 amp size, size all branch circuits accordingly.


    also check with local code enforcement to verify before you do it.
    0
  • pip5255
    quote:Originally posted by dav1965
    If you open the sub panel the way the box is made they have the neutral and ground tied together from the factory.

    I understand there should be 4 wires going to the sub panel. 2 hots 1 neutral and ground.

    My ? was what do you do when the neutral and the ground is tied together in the new sub panel.

    The sub panel is square d. 100 amps.


    your neutral and ground are only bonded at your main breaker source,
    your mistake is if you are going to use a main breaker panel for your sub panel then your service wire is 3 wire, panel must have it's own ground rod for grounding or you won't trip breaker in sub but in main and you will have to remove the bonding screw if not required by code.
    does your main panel have bonding ? you are stating they are separate.

    you may have been better off using a main lug panel that has no main breaker and just use the branch circuit breaker in main panel as the main breaker for the new panel.
    0
  • pip5255
    quote:Originally posted by dav1965
    Just to make sure i am right or wrong i have a ?

    I am putting in a sub panel to run a camper and my shop.

    My house has a separate ground and neutral however my sub panel has the neutral and ground tied together.

    So if i ran #2 #2 #4 from the house panel to the sub panel the #2 wire both would hook up to the power lugs and the #4 wire would be the ground/neutral.

    Right or wrong?


    My other question is going from the sub panel to the camper i ran #2 #2 #4. Does it matter which #2 is hot? Both #2 wires are coming from the power lug.

    Or what should i do?

    Oh the camper is 120 volts 30 amp.


    for the camper circuit you can use a single pole 30 amp breaker with a #8 2 wire with ground up to 500 feet away but the wire must be protected such as in a conduit or overhead or underground and correctly rated for such use.
    0
  • bpost
    In a separate building you need its own ground rod driven at least 6' into the ground near the service panel connected with a #6 copper wire going to it from the shop panel. You can't use the house ground for a separate building.
    0
  • cbxjeff
    Well you folks have me worried. I have the same situation as dav. 35 years ago I ran a 3 wire aluminum line from the house (replaced my electric water heater with gas) circuit to my shop 300' away. I also have a square D sub-panel where the neutral and ground are tied together. I asked here a month or two about a ground rod at the shop and will install one. I have 6 110V breakers and 5 are used for lights and outlets. I have one 220V breaker and want to install an outlet. I'm worried now about this talk about the neutral and ground being tied together by the breaker box.
    0
  • pip5255
    quote:Originally posted by cbxjeff
    Well you folks have me worried. I have the same situation as dav. 35 years ago I ran a 3 wire aluminum line from the house (replaced my electric water heater with gas) circuit to my shop 300' away. I also have a square D sub-panel where the neutral and ground are tied together. I asked here a month or two about a ground rod at the shop and will install one. I have 6 110V breakers and 5 are used for lights and outlets. I have one 220V breaker and want to install an outlet. I'm worried now about this talk about the neutral and ground being tied together by the breaker box.


    you only bond them if bonding is required locally but each building that has a panelboard must have it's own ground system which is normally a copper coated rod at least 6 feet long driven in ground and a solid copper wire no smaller than a #6 securely attached with grounding clamp.
    0
  • pip5255
    quote:Originally posted by dav1965
    Just to make sure i am right or wrong i have a ?

    I am putting in a sub panel to run a camper and my shop.

    My house has a separate ground and neutral however my sub panel has the neutral and ground tied together.

    So if i ran #2 #2 #4 from the house panel to the sub panel the #2 wire both would hook up to the power lugs and the #4 wire would be the ground/neutral.

    Right or wrong?


    My other question is going from the sub panel to the camper i ran #2 #2 #4. Does it matter which #2 is hot? Both #2 wires are coming from the power lug.

    Or what should i do?

    Oh the camper is 120 volts 30 amp.


    on your house incoming service wires where does the bare wire attach ? not the 2 hot incoming lines that go to main breaker.
    that should be your neutral buss bar where all neutral wires attach and it may be bonded to the ground buss bar that is attached to the panel box and a ground wire runs from that to rod or to a copper water pipe going into ground. ONLY bond if required by local code.
    0

Please sign in to leave a comment.

Recent Activity