Some wood worker ideas please
I have planned down a lot of rough sawn barn wood to the surface I need. They are going into a 2-1/2 season porch for the walls. I am not too concerned about the variances in thickness, it is part of the plan to keep it natural looking.
I used a jointer to remove the rough sawn edges.
What is going to be an issue is the right to left width warping of various boards. I am not seeking a perfect edge fit, just one with no more than 1/8" gap. Some look like they may be leaning left by about an inch.
If you needed to remove high spots along the width edge how would you do it??? I have about 10- 8' boards that I would like to look nice in the corners. The 36" boards are no issue.
I have a jointer, router, router table, table saw, jig saws hand saws and all sorts of wood working tooling, I just don't know the easiest way to accomplish this task.
I used a jointer to remove the rough sawn edges.
What is going to be an issue is the right to left width warping of various boards. I am not seeking a perfect edge fit, just one with no more than 1/8" gap. Some look like they may be leaning left by about an inch.
If you needed to remove high spots along the width edge how would you do it??? I have about 10- 8' boards that I would like to look nice in the corners. The 36" boards are no issue.
I have a jointer, router, router table, table saw, jig saws hand saws and all sorts of wood working tooling, I just don't know the easiest way to accomplish this task.
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Rip cut,table saw. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by montanajoe
Rip cut,table saw.
Will that take off only the high spots?0 -
Use a chalk line along the convex side. You'll be cutting it on a table saw free handed. As in no rip guide. When you finish that cut, flip the board and cut that side. You'll be able to use the rip guide on this cut. 0 -
Free hand cuts with the table saw can get a feller in trouble. Run 'em through the jointer, it's designed to give you a straight edge. 0 -
Get the correct bits for the router (preferably a router table) or a dado blade for the table saw and put ship lap joints on them. They will overlap and you won't have to worry about a perfect fit or a gap when the boards expand and contract. 0 -
tack a straight edge board to one side and run that against the fence, take it off and flip it over and cut the other side. I would suggest you do a board and batten treatment, then the boards can shrink and not be noticed. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by NeoBlackdog
Free hand cuts with the table saw can get a feller in trouble. Run 'em through the jointer, it's designed to give you a straight edge.
They all have been ran through the jointer but the length makes it impossible to true it up.0 -
Buy pictures. Hang them on the wall where you notice the gaps. 0 -
Both left and right sides are not square?? Gonna have to go free hand with jig saw,skill saw on at least one edge. Mark a straight,true line with a straight edge,or a T-square. Agree with NEO, don't try to do free hand on a table saw. 0 -
You could pop a chalk line and cut it with a circular saw.
You could do that and have no more than a 1/8 inch gap. The wood needs to be dry otherwise it will shrink and the gap will increase.
If it is antique barn wood I guess it is dry.0 -
quote:Originally posted by NeoBlackdog
Free hand cuts with the table saw can get a feller in trouble. Run 'em through the jointer, it's designed to give you a straight edge.
PLus 1, this is what a jointer is for . Joint one side then rip other side on table saw for parallel sides0 -
Get your self a 1" or 1 1/2" piece of angle iron as long as your longest board and clamp it to the board you're ripping. Use it with a 'Skill' saw to make a nice straight edge to run up against your table saw fence.
Done lots of rough sawn lumber that way.0 -
quote:Originally posted by khornet
tack a straight edge board to one side and run that against the fence, take it off and flip it over and cut the other side. I would suggest you do a board and batten treatment, then the boards can shrink and not be noticed.
^^^^^ This!0 -
Done a few jobs with old barn siding. Most had holes, knots. man made etc. I always referred to them as "charter" marks. Lined walls with tar paper under the applied siding and the finish product always looked rustic. Even gaps between the vertical boards looked good. They do move after awhile which the black tar paper help disguise. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by khornet
tack a straight edge board to one side and run that against the fence, take it off and flip it over and cut the other side. I would suggest you do a board and batten treatment, then the boards can shrink and not be noticed.
Winner winner chicken dinner. Put the barn wood on the bottom, and use a push board to keep it down with forward pressure. You might need to make a couple of cuts if the warpage is too extreme.0 -
quote:Originally posted by hunter86004
Get your self a 1" or 1 1/2" piece of angle iron as long as your longest board and clamp it to the board you're ripping. Use it with a 'Skill' saw to make a nice straight edge to run up against your table saw fence.
Done lots of rough sawn lumber that way.
Aw, you wimp, come on, cut it free hand! I have made cuts like that many times.0
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