Firearm restoration after flood??
If someone has experienced this situation, would like to know how it worked out.
I live on Lake Travis Austin Tx and have been evacuated from my house last Tuesday. As far as I know, the water has not reached the 2nd floor of the house. I have a fireproof Cannon gun safe on the 2nd floor and was thinking that since it was waterproof, may not have any damage. Later, I realized that there were holes in the bottom of the safe where it was bolted to the pallet.
Have 4 Savage rifles and 10/22 with synthetic stocks and 3 lever guns and my first .22 LR with wood stocks.
All I can do now is wait to see what happens.
Any info would be appreciated.
Lago
I live on Lake Travis Austin Tx and have been evacuated from my house last Tuesday. As far as I know, the water has not reached the 2nd floor of the house. I have a fireproof Cannon gun safe on the 2nd floor and was thinking that since it was waterproof, may not have any damage. Later, I realized that there were holes in the bottom of the safe where it was bolted to the pallet.
Have 4 Savage rifles and 10/22 with synthetic stocks and 3 lever guns and my first .22 LR with wood stocks.
All I can do now is wait to see what happens.
Any info would be appreciated.
Lago
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If they get under water fully disassemble and dry every piece as soon as possible. Follow with a coat of oil. Light surface rust will usually go away when rubbed down with 0000 steel wool and light oil.
I hope the water doesn't get that high.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Lago
Any info would be appreciated.
Keep them sprayed down with WD-40. Don0 -
never ever never use steel wool on any gun use ballistal oil as well as KROIL get a heater and remove every thing in safe and dry every thing 100% 0 -
As others have said get them dried inside and out ASAP. It's just like going out and hunting when it's raining heavy. As long as you disassemble it, get it completely dry and then oil it real good, everything will be fine 0 -
Why didn't you take the guns with you? 0 -
Yep, take them aparpt dry them off and lube. 0 -
My thought is that if the bolts fit the holes well and are tight they may stop the water from getting in, or at least limit how much can leak past them.
Hoping for the best though!
But this could be a "teachable moment" for those with similar safes -- put some silicone in the bolt holes and under the washers before you bolt it down to help the seal.0 -
The safe might be fire rates but the fire seal is not activated until it gets the heat and then it expands. If it is under water it will be full of water. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by dcon12
quote:Originally posted by Lago
Any info would be appreciated.
Keep them sprayed down with WD-40. Don
Now that could be taken in two different ways.[;)]0 -
Time is of the essence to remove any water OR internal condensation.
I would immediately field strip all guns, & use a hair blow-dryer to heat each gun & blow out any traces of water. If you don't see any water blown out, that gives you more time to detail strip & oil (if you still think that is needed).
Neal0 -
Barry Burdett (Burdett's Outdoor Adventure Shop) in College Station did a lot of work on guns that survived the Houston flood. I am sure he has information on "how to". I do know he had many 0200 days of cleaning guns from Houston. 0 -
Hair dryers. Lots of newspapers and time. 0 -
Might want to think about replacing the interior of the safe too.. 0 -
Sorry to hear about your situation. We experienced the same here is SE Tx after Harvey.
Like all have said, get them in oil. Do not worry about the wood stocks. Once they dry they will be back to their original dimensions. I have restored several firearms from the situation you now face. Contact me if my services are needed0 -
Some nearby areas had severe flooding back in '08. A friend's safe was in his basement and under water for over three weeks. And it wasn't just water, there must have been some very caustic chemicals mixed in. I told him to bring them over as soon as he could and we would disassemble and dry them out.
He had 6 or 8 guns in the safe and I was stunned when I saw them. We didn't work on any of them, they were junk. I would have never believed such damage could occur in a short time. They looked like they had been in a fire; deep pitting, frozen actions, and metal that just flaked off. We were just sick.
Luckily he didn't have any expensive guns. None were stainless steel, either.0 -
quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
never ever never use steel wool on any gun use ballistal oil as well as KROIL get a heater and remove every thing in safe and dry every thing 100%
Can I ask why you say never use steel wool on any gun? I have had good luck removing light rust spots with it.0 -
quote:Originally posted by redneckandy
quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
never ever never use steel wool on any gun use ballistal oil as well as KROIL get a heater and remove every thing in safe and dry every thing 100%
Can I ask why you say never use steel wool on any gun? I have had good luck removing light rust spots with it.
I prefer copper wool as it is a softer metal.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Idahobound
The safe might be fire rates but the fire seal is not activated until it gets the heat and then it expands. If it is under water it will be full of water.
Right: Fire proof is not waterproof and flood water is really sewer water not same as exposure to hunting in the rain.[:(]0 -
quote:Originally posted by redneckandy
quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
never ever never use steel wool on any gun use ballistal oil as well as KROIL get a heater and remove every thing in safe and dry every thing 100%
Can I ask why you say never use steel wool on any gun? I have had good luck removing light rust spots with it.
Copper or bronze wool won't take the bluing off with the rust. Same goes for Nickle vs Penny for the same thing. If you don't have Kroil on hand, auto ATF works just as good.
When you think you got it all, hose it off with auto brake cleaner. Any rust still there will light up bright orange, repeat as needed. After the last rinse off, hose it down with CLP or any other silicone based gun oil. If you don't, the whole gun will be rust in 24hrs.
A stock that has been submerged for any length of time needs the finish stripped off asap, especially a polyurethane finish. It holds the moisture in. If the stock doesn't crack when drying out, the moisture will condense under the finish. Then it causes black mold in the wood, and it's near impossible to get out.0 -
quote:Originally posted by TRAP55
quote:Originally posted by redneckandy
quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
never ever never use steel wool on any gun use ballistal oil as well as KROIL get a heater and remove every thing in safe and dry every thing 100%
Can I ask why you say never use steel wool on any gun? I have had good luck removing light rust spots with it.
Copper or bronze wool won't take the bluing off with the rust. Same goes for Nickle vs Penny for the same thing. If you don't have Kroil on hand, auto ATF works just as good.
When you think you got it all, hose it off with auto brake cleaner. Any rust still there will light up bright orange, repeat as needed. After the last rinse off, hose it down with CLP or any other silicone based gun oil. If you don't, the whole gun will be rust in 24hrs.
A stock that has been submerged for any length of time needs the finish stripped off asap, especially a polyurethane finish. It holds the moisture in. If the stock doesn't crack when drying out, the moisture will condense under the finish. Then it causes black mold in the wood, and it's near impossible to get out.
+1
Rust and mold cancer will attack fast to both metal and wood.0 -
I lucked out this time. The lake didn't make it to the 2nd floor. It's starting to drop now and I should be able to go home middle of next week.
Lago0 -
quote:Originally posted by Lago
I lucked out this time. The lake didn't make it to the 2nd floor. It's starting to drop now and I should be able to go home middle of next week.
Lago
Good news!
You will still have a lot of work to do.
If your guns did get damp be sure to dry them ASAP like has been said before.
If there is rust these work great: http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/
A little light penetrating oil like Kroil and a Big 45 cleaner will work wonders.0 -
Even if they didn't flood I would go over them with an oily rag and an oiled patch down the bore at a minimum...all that standing water around your place was sure to raise the humidity inside the house (and the safe) to near saturation levels.
Sure can't hurt....0 -
Originally posted by wallieOriginally posted by Lago
If someone has experienced this situation, would like to know how it worked out.
I live on Lake Travis Austin Tx and have been evacuated from my house last Tuesday. As far as I know, the water has not reached the 2nd floor of the house. I have a fireproof Cannon gun safe on the 2nd floor and was thinking that since it was waterproof, may not have any damage. Later, I realized that there were holes in the bottom of the safe where it was bolted to the pallet.
Have 4 Savage rifles and 10/22 with synthetic stocks and 3 lever guns and my first .22 LR with wood stocks.
All I can do now is wait to see what happens.
Any info would be appreciated.
Lago
Buy top-loaded Queenie saver chute
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