Question Woodstove Guy's -
I have a Chimney Contractor coming over this coming Tues. to look at running chimney pipe from my rather large Fischer Grandpa model woodstove up and out of my large 7' wide, inside the house rock chimney, narrows down to about 4' wide once it leaves the roof.
The chimney can not be really cleaned out from above with a Chimney brush because it open up inside as you come down. I had a chimney fire a couple years ago. Scared the c r a p out of me. The contractor is talking about SS Double wall pipe going out.
My question is, is that really necessary? If so, no problem. My other question, is that I would like to bring the woodstove out about another foot in to the house before the elbow to increase heat in the house. I am thinking of having a flue (?) If that is the correct word installed in the exit pipe before it enters the steel plate covering the fireplace opening to control air flow. (A round steel plate inside the pipe you can control and adjust to regulate airflow.)
The pipe inside the chimney will have to go up about 2-2 1/2 stories to exit the chimney. What do you think is a fair/reasonable price to do this?
Any suggestions would be welcomed.
Thank you.
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To be candid... A reasonable price is anything less than the cost to replace the house. Chimney fires can destroy the place. 0 -
I agree WearyTraveler. I will spend whatever it takes to make burning a woodstove fire in my house safe. I have the funds. I am not looking to take the cheap way out. I just hate being taken advantage of, and was looking at some opinions on what was a fair price in order to accomplish that.
I have kept my woodstove fires, less than rolling for the last couple years in order for flames not to enter the chimney. With the design of my house, (steep pitched A-frame) going up three open stories in my living room, (difficult to heat) I need to be able to load it up and crank it.
Just looking for opinions/advice and shared knowledge from this incredibly knowledgeable group. (As always) I appreciate you guy's.
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Dan's Chimney service out of Roan Mountain, TN. Very good reputation. I am not really concerned of an out of line price. Just trying to get a handle at what I am looking at in advance. Some ballpark prices from you guys. (If you would be so inclined.)
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Rough estimate on the stainless flue pipe is $25 a foot plus extras and installation. Installing a damper is a necessity. You may consider a heat box with a fan to make use of the heat before it goes up the flue. 0 -
Didn't we used to have a member who was an artist of building fireplaces? I really enjoyed looking at his projects but I haven't seen him post in quite a while.
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A complicated install. Here is the place for the wood stove experts and half of what I know about wood stoves, and I know a lot, came from this forum. Join up and post your question you will get all the info you need.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/forums/the-hearth-room-wood-stoves-and-fireplaces.6/0 -
"I have kept my woodstove fires, less than rolling for the last couple years in order for flames not to enter the chimney"...............that is exactly why you had the chimney fire, a 'hot' fire produces less creosote and keeps the chimney warner to vent what is left. the worst thing you can do to a chimney is have a 'lazy/smokey' fire. 0 -
About 10 years ago I had an estimate of $1,300 to run a stainless flexible liner up about a story and a half through an existing clay flue chimney liner. Sounds like yours is a bit longer and more complicated. 0 -
Sorry MW, I am not a neophyte. No "lazy/smokey fires" going here. My fires are always burning bright and hot. ((Just not) Burning so hot/loaded so full, flames are shooting out the back. There is a difference, and I am aware of it.
When my Chimney fire took place, it was because I had a full blown, loaded to the gills wood stove fire going. Flames shooting out the back pipe. Caught the creosote on fire. I use multiple products, "anti-creosoot spray, various anti-creosote remover powdered product," etc.
I NEVER have a low smoldering fire. Not my first rodeo.
Been around the block a few times.
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My chimney opens up considerably inside. (I can stand up in it at the base.) Smoke cools down and condenses on the inside walls. That creates/promotes the creosote build up. Flames hit it, and viola, chimney fire. I need to restrict/channel the outflow. Nothing more.
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I would get estimates from a couple other chimney guys in your area and go with the one that not only comes in at the lowest price, but also (most importantly) the one that you are the most comfortable with. 0 -
Pietro75, I believe. That guy could do things with stone that was just amazing. IIRC he moved from up in Mr. Perfects neck of the woods down to Tennessee(?).nononsense said:Didn't we used to have a member who was an artist of building fireplaces? I really enjoyed looking at his projects but I haven't seen him post in quite a while.
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"Sorry MW, I am not a neophyte. No "lazy/smokey fires" going here. ".......................OK we've got that covered, with a stone flue already in place you don't have to use a class 'A' chimney liner, a single wall s.s. pipe will do. 
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Sorry Mike, I meant no disrespect.
I only meant that I did not load the **** out of the very large woodstove, to the point flames were shooting out the back into the chimney.
I was very observant and judicious in how much wood I loaded up.
I appreciate all you input on my behalf. Thank you.
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"Sorry Mike, I meant no disrespect."...........no offence taken, I've been in the hvac business 45 years (now retired), and like the Farmers Ins. people have seen a lot. My son is running the business now, he is doing a similar job + other work for a home owner to the tune of $30,000 + for the job. 0 -
84, try theseTristen's Chimney Service, good, very busy, expensive. 828-387-6153Advanced Chimney Service, good, don't know how busy, gotta be cheaper than Tristen's. 828-525-0423Have used them both, from Newland, NC, don't know how far they travel, they both have websites.
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First thing you better do is start using properly seasoned firewood. Split and dried for a minimum of a year and preferably 2 or 3. If you think it is dry, check it with a moisture meter, That will minimize the creosote and if you are adding all the chemicals you say you shouldnt be having problems. Mike is right, if your chimney is that big you probably cant get it hot enough to reduce the buildup., especially if it is open at the bottom. If it is closed below the stove pipe thats a different matter. 0 -
Oh Crap. Sitting here with a few hours until the contractor shows up. I was thinking it would be a fairly simple up and out. Sitting here looking at my set up, i realize that I have about a 4-5" by 12-14" cast iron/steel flue that you can close up inside the chimney. Dammit. That is going to really complicate things.
Oh well. It is what it is. Just gotta deal with it.
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had a wood stove once and tapped into the two flue chimney....etc etc....never will have another wood stove in a home....i would have the external stove/shed and pipe the air in and out of the house thru insulated ducting...also with fusible trips on air doors to seal it off if something goes bad & flames up.....no mess....no smoke.. remote controls, can use larger logs and an easy tap into the central air/heat ducts 0 -
Never use two types of fuel in one in a chimney or duct .
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