H&R 950
I have one and it shoots high. Not just a little high, it shoot 3+ inches high at 6 feet. That's with the front sight buried in the rear right. The rear sight is drift adjustable for windage but there is no elevation adjustment. Adding to the front sight is about the only thing I can come up. The front sight is a blade and is already a 1/2" high. I wonder how a pistol even gets out of the factory like that.
I've considered removing the rear sight and filing a groove in the top of the frame like a pistol with fixed sights. But really, what good is a .22 pistol if the sights can't be tuned correctly.
I guess I'll trade it with full disclosure. I've had it several years but never shoot it as it's useless other than hearing it go bang. 9 shot single or double action with a 6" barrel. Should have been a ball of fun.
I could re-crown it but really it shoots tight enough groups the crown seems fine, dang thing just shoots high.
I've considered removing the rear sight and filing a groove in the top of the frame like a pistol with fixed sights. But really, what good is a .22 pistol if the sights can't be tuned correctly.
I guess I'll trade it with full disclosure. I've had it several years but never shoot it as it's useless other than hearing it go bang. 9 shot single or double action with a 6" barrel. Should have been a ball of fun.
I could re-crown it but really it shoots tight enough groups the crown seems fine, dang thing just shoots high.
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Is the front sight soldered or dovetail? 0 -
Soldered 0 -
If it groups real good and you like it, I would add a taller sight. You can also try standard velocity ammo. 0 -
can you lower the groove in the rear, you may add some thick tape to the front blade first to see how much distance you are talking about before grinding the rear sight down.........
or just aim low0 -
I've had this problem a number of times. J-B weld, is the best bet for building up the front sight. The trick with J-B weld, is to let it sit at least 1 hour or more, after mixing up a batch. This allows it to harden up, so that it wont't be runny and hard to work with.
The worst pistol that I worked on. And fixed with J-B welded front sight. Was a American Arms, replica P 38, in 22 LR. It was shooting a astounding 4+" high at 15 yrds.0 -
Okay, you made me think of something. If I cut a piece of black plastic to fit over the rounded blade. Filed the plastic until the gun is lined up. Then epoxied the plastic in place it may not look to bad if I did fine enough work. I could use a dremel wheel to cut out the groove to slip over the front sight. Or, I could solder on a taller front sight but, while I have soldered sheet metal, I've never soldered on a sight. or anything else to a gun barrel. 0 -
All my friends call be bubba 0 -
Now that I put some thought into this I have a better idea. I can drill a hole and secure with a roll pin. Just a new blade that will slip over the back of the existing blade. I could make up a few actually and have an adjustable system. Then again I could just trade it and get the Ruger SP 101 I've been wanting in .22lr. 0 -
Move your target out further. 3” high at six feet should be dead on at 150 yds. 0 -
I have a .44 Special Colt SAA which groups 4" at 50 yards. But the group is a foot low and a foot left. I have shot 3 deer with it, each was about 50 yards away. I just aimed at the top of the back right over the stomach on broadside shots and it worked OK. But I quit using it when the value went high. 0 -
Try shooting it at 25 yrds before you do anything to the sights 0 -
I've done that. It's been awhile and I can't remember exactly how much but it's ridiculously highbrier-49 said:Try shooting it at 25 yrds before you do anything to the sights
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