H&R Topper 158 made of powdered metal?
The rear tip of my H&R Topper 158 .30-30 broke off! Is it made of a powdered metal or sintered metal, of low strength? And a replacement seems hard to find.
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if you are talking about the 'tip' of the transfer bar, then yes. this is a part prone to failure. 0 -
Are you talking about the rear sight? added yes the transfer bar is cheap made - I have made several. So was the firing pin, replaced many. I liked the old ones with the rebounding hammer - less to go wrong. 0 -
So sorry, I left out the important word "hammer". It broke off the rear tip of the hammer on which I had installed an offset hammer spur to clear scope bell. 0 -
Get someone to high temp silver solder or braze on the piece if you have it. Or drill and tapped a hole, screw in a shaped new spur made from a bolt.
Oh and it could poor heat treatment besides powder metal.0 -
I have a fair number of T/C Encore frames and barrels. One of the warnings from T/C is to NOT use any of those hammer extensions because it would damage the hammer. The logic of which I couldn't quite follow so in my ignorance ... I added one. It took a fair number of rounds & years but at some point it dawned on me "damn that sure has become one prominent hammer spur". When compared to my other Encores, the spur had markedly moved up. The added weight of the hammer extension and inertia followed by sudden stop (a body in motion ....) had each time ever so slightly moved the hammer spur higher and higher.PA Shootist said:So sorry, I left out the important word "hammer". It broke off the rear tip of the hammer on which I had installed an offset hammer spur to clear scope bell.
My bet is yours developed a crack bit by bit that finally gave way.0 -
Many firearm parts nowadays, are made with the MIM process. This is steel that's molded, rather than machined from bar stock. Very difficult to work on. Couple of parts I tried to rework, were so hard. They couldn't be filed. Had to use a dremel, with abrasive cut off disks.
Not likely your hammer is MIM though. Probably some kind of low grade steel. Agree with Charlie. Remove hammer and have some guy, who knows what he's doing. Either braze or Tig weld a replacement hammer spur. Be very careful, that the surface that interfaces with the sear. Isn't over heated, or it could be very dangers. From a safety aspect.0 -
just to note, after you dis-assemble the gun and repair/replace the hammer, you will need a set of 'slave' pins to re-assemble it. 0 -
I found it better to ensure your set screw is not pointed, if so grind the very tip away and make it flat and lock tight screw when installing. this is related to the heat treating and occurs with other guns also. 0
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