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Compact Tractor Advice

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29 comments

  • hillbille
      only thing I know from my little experience with tractors is buy the biggest you can afford. a large tractor working at half power will last longer than a small tractor working at full power all the time........

    also have to ask yourself, are you gonna use the loader daily or just that everynow and then, few times year.  if more towards the daily use, get larger more dedicated tractor........
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  • jimdeere
    Adding a new loader would probably cost upwards to $5000. I’d sell the 755 and get one with a loader.
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  • Ditch-Runner
    hillbille said:
      only thing I know from my little experience with tractors is buy the biggest you can afford. a large tractor working at half power will last longer than a small tractor working at full power all the time........
     I messed up and used similar advice when I got married with my wife .... :'(
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  • Horse Plains Drifter
    What Jim said.
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  • SCOUT5
    You have for the 755 and it does what you use it for well why sell it?     You can buy a used tractor with a loader and have both.  When you buy a tractor with a loader it needs to be bigger than the 755.   While the 755 may do what you need it to it wouldn't do much with a loader on it, it's to small and under powered.  So if you need a tractor the size of the 755 just add a larger piece of equipment for what the 755 can't do.
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  • savage170

    There is a company called little buck loaders that makes a front end loader for the 755 for about 2000 my brother just bought one.


    https://www.littlebuckloader.com/

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  • spasmcreeksrun
    been playing with the little utility tractors since i retired from farming....had 5 and now down to three all with loaders, 3pt and pto.....pretty much similar between the brands ..prefer hydrostat drive as can creep doing diff things.....next one will have a cab and heat/air ...all under 45 horsepower.....one brand has went thru 4 name changes.....buy a brand that has a dealer on the ground near you for parts and service if needed....REMEMBER... build a weight box for the 3pt hitch ....ALL the little tractors loaders can get u in trouble with out the extra weight



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  • Cling2myguns
    Just bought a new Kubota L2501 with loader. Haven't got to use it yet, but after comparing the JD3025E, I decided on the Kubota as it is more of a small tractor where the JD is more of an upsized subcompact. I recommend JD or Kubota. They both have a large dealer and parts network.
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  • Bubba Jr.
    I bought a new Kubota B2910 in 2001. I considered it the best money I ever spent. I had almost 1900 trouble free hours on it when I traded it in for a new B2650 in 2015. As I got older the heat and cold were getting harder to take, so I bought the new one with a cab and heat and air. I've had a couple issues with the new one, but they were sorted out and everything works fine now. I would recommend the B2650 over the B3350. The B3350 has been plauged with regeneration issues, and a lot of dealers won't even take them in on trade anymore. They have come out with a new series to replace the B series called the LX series. Basically a more refined model and uses a common rail injection system that eliminates all the issues the B3350 had with regeneration. The Kubota is a more solid tractor than the JD's, and usually much fewer problems.
    Joe
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  • KenK/84Bravo
    spasmcreeksrun: 31536100925211/comments/31536057358875
    been playing with the little utility tractors since i retired from farming....had 5 and now down to three all with loaders, 3pt and pto.....pretty much similar between the brands ..prefer hydrostat drive as can creep doing diff things.....next one will have a cab and heat/air ...all under 45 horsepower.....one brand has went thru 4 name changes.....buy a brand that has a dealer on the ground near you for parts and service if needed....REMEMBER... build a weight box for the 3pt hitch ....ALL the little tractors loaders can get u in trouble with out the extra weight



    Drove a Huge Volvo L90E Grapple loader at the sawmill for two years. We would pick up log loads so big the rear wheels would just barely be on the ground. (Skipping.) If you had to hit the brakes hard. (Usually some jackwagon that worked there, cutting you off in his personal vehicle.)You'd better be ready to not kiss the windshield. I sprained my wrist a couple times, trying to brace myself.

    There was no Slow and Easy. It was hurry, hurry. Log trucks backing up. Loads of logs to be species seperated and put away, make sure the log deck has whatever species we were running on the log deck getting fed in to the mill. Etc. Etc. It was Balls to the Wall, all day, everyday.

    Good times.

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  • Horse Plains Drifter
    Speaking of proprietary, keep in mind Kubotas have a propietary transmission /hydraulic oil that costs $20.00-$30.00/gallon.
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  • Brookwood
    I was pondering a couple years ago about  if I ever had any real problems with my Kubota tractor and needed to have it worked on, just how would I get it transported to the dealer for work.  I no longer have the right vehicle and trailer.    Called the closest dealership about 20 miles away and they told me that they had a mechanic on duty that did house calls for 90 bucks an hour.   

    That helped me sleep a little easier and so far after owning the tractor these last 5 years I have not had any problems requiring their services.
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  • spasmcreeksrun
    one more annoying  hassle...last 35 hp TYM i bought was the last model i could get WITHOUT the tier 4  emissions BS on the engine....do not figure i am going to save the world with that expensive stuff on a low hour small tractor  ...so i guess they all have to have it now ..heard once 25HP and below was exempt ?????
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  • arraflipper
    I had a fellow tell me that you can buy a better tractor than a John Deere, but you can't pay more than what you do for a Deere.  That one kind of stuck with me.
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  • select-fire
    one more annoying  hassle...last 35 hp TYM i bought was the last model i could get WITHOUT the tier 4  emissions BS on the engine....do not figure i am going to save the world with that expensive stuff on a low hour small tractor  ...so i guess they all have to have it now ..heard once 25HP and below was exempt ?????

    Didn't know new tractors had to be compliant .
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  • Cling2myguns
    one more annoying  hassle...last 35 hp TYM i bought was the last model i could get WITHOUT the tier 4  emissions BS on the engine....do not figure i am going to save the world with that expensive stuff on a low hour small tractor  ...so i guess they all have to have it now ..heard once 25HP and below was exempt ?????

    Didn't know new tractors had to be compliant .

    Yep anything over a 25hp, which is one reason I got the L2501. Many people believe the engine in the L2501 was downrated to 25 to fall under the need for def. It is a 1.6l engine.Sure are a lot of people saying it can handle what the 33hp unit does. It is rated for a backhoe too, which the 3025e JD is NOT.


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  • BikerBob

    Check out the Bobcat subcompacts as well. I really like Bobcat’s service. And they use the bobtatch system which a lot of manufacturers make attachments for.

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  • select-fire
    Nonsense. Read the manual for what spec. Then go read some hydraulic 5 gal pails at tractor supply. Looky see they are the same. 

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  • JimmyJack
    Got a Kubota 3901 and love it.  Forget the oil problem.  Even if you decide to use their oil,  it is not a great expence as you seldom if ever add any between changes. Any premium oil nowdays is gonna cost.
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  • Horse Plains Drifter
    Speaking of proprietary, keep in mind Kubotas have a propietary transmission /hydraulic oil that costs $20.00-$30.00/gallon.
    Did not know this.  Will strike Kubota from my list then.

    I just found this out recently myself. I don't have a Kubota, but my neighbor does. His needed some transmission oil, and he did not like the price of the Kubota oil, which the manufacture states you MUST use. Information flowing around on the internet confirms that using regular tractor transmission oil WILL lead to failed transmission clutches.
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  • select-fire
     Your call  whether you have to use Kubota oil in a Kubota. Kubota does not have their own oil refinery. Ashland oil I read yrs ago ( Valvoline) makes their oil. Look at the spec of the kubota fluids on their bottles and get the same elsewhere Cheaper...  Here is an example https://www.midlandslubricants.co.uk/agricultural/agricultural-oils-tractor/kubota-tractor-transmission-fluid/ that is a foreign website but other oil same spec is available locally . Parts man at the local Kubota dealer even said other choices are available. No where in my manual does it state only Kubota oil can be used. The UDT is just a common universal tractor hydraulic fluid (THF) and if you look at most of these labels, you almost always find UDT listed as one that it "meets the specs."/suitable for


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  • JimmyJack
    Checked my manual,  Select-fire hit the nail on the head.
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  • Bubba Jr.
    The deal with the Kubota Hydro oil is that if you have hydrostatic issues and have not used Kubota oil, you will not be covered under warranty for the repair. They do analize the oil on those claims. However there is nothing stopping you from using whatever oil you want after the warranty expires.
    Joe
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  • buddyb
    I changed the hydraulic oil in this 755 last fall.It calls for J20D oil if I remember correctly.It was about 20 bucks a gallon at the dealer.I found a distributor that sold the same oil,but not in green and yellow bottles but it was still about 70 bucks for 5 gallons.
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  • JimmyJack
    I dont think the tractors have a built in lab,  and if the specifications are the same, so be it.
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  • Mobuck
    "Nonsense. Read the manual for what spec. Then go read some hydraulic 5 gal pails at tractor supply. Looky see they are the same. "

    You do know that TSC was sued over some "generic hydraulic oil" and paid out a buttload of money to JD owners whose tractors were damaged by the so called "303" oil. Kubota is VERY picky about their hydraulic oil and will test oil from tractors brought in for transmission damage under warranty. I know 1/2 dozen cases where the use of "non'BOTA" hyd oil cost owners thousands of dollars in transmission repairs and that damage doesn't take long to occur.
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  • SW0320
    I have a Kubota 2320 manual shift and I have bucket, front snowblower, plow, brush hog and logging winch as attachments.  It is about 20 years old and I have not had any problems.  I do my oil changes and other fluids and have not had any problems.   I saved a lot of money getting the manual shift, dealer could not sell it because all of the weekend farmers wanted hydrostatic.
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  • Cling2myguns
    I have no problem using Super UDT-2 in my Kubota. Won't be sharing implements with other tractors, and will likely need less than a gallon a year. Just like I use Mobil 1 in my vehicles I have no issue paying for top quality lubricants. Price low ash oil for a gasser IH 706 sometime....
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  • select-fire
    JimmyJack said:
    I dont think the tractors have a built in lab,  and if the specifications are the same, so be it.

    :)  If you read on most hydraulic buckets they state what it is safe for..what make.
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