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38 comments

  • Mr. Perfect
    Here is an easier to understand firewood chart.

    FIREWOOD BTU OF WESTERN HARDWOOD SPECIES

    Species Million BTU's per Cord Pounds Per Cord
    Green
    Pounds Per Cord
    Dry
    Live Oak 36.6 7870 4840
    Eucalyptus 34.5 7320 4560
    Manzanita 32.0

    Pacific Madrone 30.9 6520 4086
    Dogwood 30.4 6520 4025
    Oregon White Oak 28.0 6290 3710
    Tanoak 27.5 6070 3650
    California Black Oak 27.4 5725 3625
    Pepperwood (Myrtle) 26.1 5730 3450
    Chinquapin 24.7 4720 3450
    Bigleaf Maple 22.7 4940 3000
    Red Alder 19.5 4100 2600
    Quaking Aspen 18.0 3880 2400
    Cottonwood 16.8 3475 2225

    FIREWOOD BTU OF WESTERN SOFTWOOD SPECIES

    Species Million BTU’s per Cord Pounds Per Cord
    Green
    Pounds Per Cord
    Dry
    Douglas Fir 26.5 5050 3075
    Western Juniper 26.4 5410 3050
    Western Hemlock 24.4 5730 2830
    Port Orford Cedar 23.4 4370 2700
    Lodgepole Pine 22.3 4270 2580
    Ponderosa Pine 21.7 4270 2520
    Jeffery Pine 21.7 4270 2520
    Sitka Spruce 21.7 4100 2520
    White Fir 21.1 3190 2400
    Red Fir 20.6 4040 2400
    Incense Cedar 20.1 3880 2350
    Coast Redwood 20.1 4040 2330
    Grand Fir 20.1 3880 2330
    Sugar Pine 19.6 3820 2270
    Western White Pine


    Sequoia Redwood


    FIREWOOD BTU OF EASTERN HARDWOOD SPECIES

    Inconsistency between charts may exist due to different laboratory variables

    Species Million BTU’s per Cord Pounds Per Cord Dry
    Osage Orange 32.9 4728
    Shagbark Hickory 27.7 4327
    Eastern Hornbeam 27.1 4016
    Black Birch 26.8 3890
    Black Locust 26.8 3890
    Blue Beech 26.8 3890
    Ironwood 26.8 3890
    Bitternut Hickory 26.5 3832
    Honey Locust 26.5 4100
    Apple 25.8 3712
    Mulberry 25.7 4012
    Beech 24.0 3757
    Northern Red Oak 24.0 3757
    Sugar Maple 24.0 3757
    White Oak 24.0 3757
    White Ash 23.6 3689
    Yellow Birch 21.8 3150
    Red Elm 21.6 3112
    Hackberry 20.8 3247
    Kentucky Coffeetree 20.8 3247
    Gray Birch 20.3 3179
    Paper Birch 20.3 3179
    White Birch 20.2 3192
    Black Walnut 20.0 3120
    Cherry 20.0 3120
    Green Ash 19.9 2880
    Black Cherry 19.5 2880
    American Elm 19.5 3052
    White Elm 19.5 3052
    Sycamore 19.1 2992
    Black Ash 18.7 2924
    Red Maple (Soft Maple) 18.1 2900
    Boxelder 17.9 2797
    Catalpa 15.9 2482
    Aspen 14.7 2295
    Butternut 14.5 2100
    Willow 14.3 2236
    Cottonwood 13.5 2108
    American Basswood 13.5 2108



    A lot of those numbers are misleading. For example, Big Leaf Maple burns a hell of a lot hotter than douglas fir. It just burns a bit faster too, so you get fewer total BTUs (I guess).  It also leaves a helluvan ash mess.
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  • select-fire
    All of it will burn just keeping some burning is the problem . I always split bad stuff small so it would be gone quicker. And mixed it with good stuff just to get rid of it. Too many conditions to establish how long it lasts.
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  • Horse Plains Drifter
    Larch is the bees knees.
    Sho nuff it is! The old timers made shakes from larch too.
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  • Wild Turkey
    Makes no sense to me that Creosote production based on amount burned is major factor. Well maybe not in all cases. I use to help Grandpa haul pine slabs from sawmill and we cut up and feed to fire in fireplace. Real fast and heavy Creosote build up resulted in huge Chimney fire that neighbors could see for miles in night sky. Bellowed like a freight train and we all got out of house. It finally burned it self out. Scared the hell out of me as a ten year old.
    Think about it -- pine slabs are very wet so you had to burn a lot, leading to lots of creosote that led to fire.  They would burn well because they were pine but not as well as if they were dry. 

    Had a friend who lived in an old log cabin and he had a chimney fire -- roar and sparks were like you described.  Fire dept got there in time. 
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  • jimdeere
    Moisture in wood must be converted to steam . That takes energy, BTUs. Steam goes up the chimney and is wasted. Seasoned wood is always better.
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  • JimmyJack
    I agree,  I heat my home with wood from an inside boiler,  and all my wood is seasoned 2 to 3 years.
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  • kannoneer
    One time we had a chimney fire about 2 in the morning. The roof was so hot I had to put shoes on.  We had been burning green Locust. The creosote had built up and collapsed inward, plugging the chimney and filling the house with smoke. The furnace was shut down tight but it was drawing air from somewhere. Flames were about 2-3 foot out the top of the chimney. Poured a 3 gallon water jug on it and it died down and then soon came roaring back to life. Poured another jug in then stuck a 12 ga. shotgun with a field load down the chimney and touched her off. It literally blew the fire out for good. Thought for sure the house was going to go. Yes, I know about chimney fires. That gun saved our house.
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  • 4205raymond
    Grandpa and I never used green pine slabs but they laid at used up sawmill for I think at least a year and were well seasoned. I think they use pine for mineral spirits/turpentine. Would that not cause a heavy buildup of Creosote in chimney especially coming from knots in slabs. We use to pick up knots in woods with heavy concentrations turpentine in them which were great for starting fire. 

    I knew of many chimneys in Central Va. that had their clay flue pipes shattered from pouring cold water down chimney to put out a chimney fire.
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