Question for you Auto Mechanics
I thought I was one but I can't figure this one out. Chevy HHR 4 cyl. My son replaced both rear brake shoes and one slave cylinder as the bleeder broke. The cylinder was replaced and both rear brakes were bled. Initaly, the brake pedal was great but upon starting the engine the pedal goes to the floor. Rear brakes bled again but no change and the master cylinder never ran dry.
To save some of our team members some typing time, I'll say "It's a Chevy" for you!
Any ideas guys?
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Possibly has air still in the brake system since there was no fluid loss........also check the brake vacuum boost on the firewall for a fluid leak.
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Engine needs running while bleeding the brakes.
https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/chevy-hhr-brake-pedal-goes-to-floor/
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Did he pre-fill the slave cylinder?
Saying "the pedal was great" with the engine off just means you're essentially fighting a broken power brakes setup, like trying to drive a car with broken power steering. Sure, there's no play in the steering but it's HARD to turn.
Jack up the wheel, push the pedal with the engine off, and I bet the brake isn't really being applied.
As above, bleed it with the engine running.
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I replaced the master cylinder, proportioning valve,all brake lines,front calipers,rearwheel cylinders on my El Camino.I tried for days to get the air out of the system.I bought a pressure bleeder (I think at Harbor Freight)and fixed the problem in about 10 minutes.
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I did the same with my old Land Rover, and could NOT get the air out... the master cylinder sits at an angle with a big air pocket at the top. Impossible to bleed.
So I gave up and asked an old timer Rover nut and he said "jack up the front end".
Duhhhhh. Am I REALLY that dense? Oh, and he was right.
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Might be the anti brake control also needs bleeding
Google or check YouTube
It bit me inthe past
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Did you try turning it off and turning it back on again?
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^^^this^^^ AND the engine does have to be running......no vaccum on the brake booster otherwise.
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as nanuq says you must pre fill the cyl you replaced.
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Mr. Perfect: 30510701115803/comments/30510699841563
Did you try turning it off and turning it back on again?
Do as this guy says, try a hard re-boot.
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Not sure about that model but when it came time to replace pads on Grouch Attack's Chevy Equinox, the instructions specifically said NOT TO FORCE THE CALIPER APART (as in force fluid backward in the system) while removing the caliper and pads.
The accepted way is to open the bleeder and push the caliper apart so the fluid spills out rather than reverse flow.
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Thanks for all the comments guys. I've been working on cars (brakes included) since 1956. 1953 if we include mechanical brakes. I give up. I still think it's an air in the system problem but I don't have the benefit of knowing how the failure occurred. For a town of 400 we have a great auto shop staffed by a group of ASE mechanics. I met the owner 40 years ago and now his son runs the shop. I'm sure they will tell me just how dumb I am. 🤣
Thanks again for the suggestions guys,
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I congratulate you Jeff! It takes a good man to admit when it is time to pass the problem on to good professionals. It will cost you some but will perhaps educate you for future problems.
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have to tell this story
when I was first driving and learning to work on cars
I had a caliper go bad so picked one at the local junk yard I mean recycling yard LOL
any way I could not get the air out of the system several people I knew tried to help and gave up
so I took it to a chevy dealer the biggest one around us ( thats not saying much ) they had it three days . what they told me when I picked it up several of there mechanics worked on it they said several gallons of brake fluid were put thru it and nothing . a lot of scratching heads lost and giving up just so happen a older mechanic walked by and said you boys do realize that the right side caliper on the left side the bleed screw is facing down you will never get the air trapped in the top ...dhaa ....
so they replaced the caliper with the correct one ( I had no idea at that time I just used what the parts yard gave me )
as for the bill I was scared what it would be ( I was making about 2.00 a hour ) they charged me for the caliper like 20 bucks or so and like 30 dollars labor as they were embarrassed it took three days and several mechanics until one fellow spotted it as soon as he walked up .
I was also embarrassed but at that time I was just learning and least tried . and never did it again 😁
that was the first and the last time I ever took a car to be repaired other that a warranty claim .to any garage that was around 1975 /1976 time frame . since than I could not count all the repairs minor and major for friends and family I have done .
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Mobuck: 30510701115803/comments/30510702214427
Not sure about that model but when it came time to replace pads on Grouch Attack's Chevy Equinox, the instructions specifically said NOT TO FORCE THE CALIPER APART (as in force fluid backward in the system) while removing the caliper and pads.
The accepted way is to open the bleeder and push the caliper apart so the fluid spills out rather than reverse flow.
Rear brakes in an HHR are drum.
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