hvac blower motor question
As always I've come to the all knowledgeable forum for help. I need a blower motor for my heat pump. I know there's was/were few fellers on here that were service techs. Could you point me in the right direction on where to order a motor? What could you tell me what motor model I have? The label says:
endura pro HW19
1/2HP 230VAC
5/23/2015
Rheem P/N 51--101880-02-01 CCW
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amazon is your friend
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Make sure the replacement rotates CCW - counter clockwise
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montanajoe: 30484293604507/comments/30484313086107
I cant find one that has the exact same number. 51-101880-02-01 the last four digits are always different or if they are the same it'll say no longer available.
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I would e-mail or call rheem with your original part number and ask what is the new replacement part number.
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I have ordered from Supply House.com with favorable results.
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Check into having your motor rewound .
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montanajoe: 30484293604507/comments/30484331069723
I would e-mail or call rheem with your original part number and ask what is the new replacement part number.
Ding, Ding
We have a winner.
You go by the model number on your Rheem system.
If the Rheem part number you posted does not fly.
I use a universal motor that will work as both as Evaporator or condenser fan motor for my system for about $100 and I keep a spare handy, but you have to know how to connect all the wires to get it electrically connected properly.
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I went on a service call a few years back,the morning of Christmas eve.The family had young children,it was cold out and the evaporator motor was howling.I told them it may be a problem finding parts on a holiday.On the way there was an electric motor shop and there was a car in the parking lot.They were closed but an old guy salesman came to the door and I told him the situation.He told me he would wait till I brought the motor back to see if he could match it.When I got back with the motor ,he had a replacement but it wired differently and he taped up the wires not to use and explained how to wire it.Had the unit running like new in a few minutes.When the homeowner ask for the bill,I told him I would mail it,but I never did.
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Are you sure it's not the run or start capacitor?
Joe
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Bubba Jr.: 30484293604507/comments/30484300827163
Are you sure it's not the run or start capacitor?
Joe
No Im not, just going by the word of a friend that dabbles in the field. when we took the cover off the hamster wheel blower fan just rocked back and forth and hummed real loud. He took the multimeter to a few leads and deemed it was the motor.
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If there was no squealing/squalling.......just a "humming" sound.....there's a good chance it's the start/run capacitor (that provides the voltage/current phase shift, necessary for motor rotor torque).
It's easy enough to try a new capacitor........if no success, you've a spare. I keep a few spares for my compressor. Heck.....I even keep a spare compressor!!!.....AND blower motor!!!
BTW.......keep those blower vanes CLEAN!!
Hope this helps.
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I agree, check the capacitor first. Much cheaper and easier to replace. If you don't have a meter and can't check it, then open everything up, turn on just the fan on the thermostat and spin the fan blades by hand. If it takes off running, then it's a bad capacitor.
First, with power iff....
You can make sure it free wheels, if it's locked up then you need new motor. Also grab the shaft and wiggle up/down left/right.....should be VERY little movement any direction.
Sounds like a bad cap to me, but I wasn't there with hands on it either.
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I have to replace a capacitor every few years on every unit I ever owned. I buy a couple of extra when I buy them. I've got one spare in my cabinet now and when I replace it I'll go to the parts place and get a couple more. I tried ordering them on line but for some reason I get everything but the right number shipped to me so I gave up and just go to the parts house.
Back in the old days I had an HVAC company tell me I needed to replace everything because it was burned up. I had been around long enough to know that was a load of BS. I called another company and the old guy they sent out said that figures they would try to sell you something you didn't need. He showed me the capacitor and how to replace it and charged me $40 bucks but of course that was years ago. It's hard telling how much money he saved me over the years.
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With capacitors, age is not their friend. I used to delve into old, classic stereo gear, Mac, crown, Fisher, etc. Cap replacement was a very common occurrence.
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62vld2042: 30484293604507/comments/30484301081115
If there was no squealing/squalling.......just a "humming" sound.....there's a good chance it's the start/run capacitor (that provides the voltage/current phase shift, necessary for motor rotor torque).
It's easy enough to try a new capacitor........if no success, you've a spare. I keep a few spares for my compressor. Heck.....I even keep a spare compressor!!!.....AND blower motor!!!
BTW.......keep those blower vanes CLEAN!!
Hope this helps.
When the fan kicked on it would hum and shudder. The fan would rock back and forth like it didn't have enough oomph to spin on around. I didnt really get in there with him but the motor looks like one of those with the ECM on the tail end of it. Again this is just from me searching motors but it looks like if it has an ECM that it doesnt have a seperate capacitor. Its all built into the cap end of the motor
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mike55: 30484293604507/comments/30484344987291
I agree, check the capacitor first. Much cheaper and easier to replace. If you don't have a meter and can't check it, then open everything up, turn on just the fan on the thermostat and spin the fan blades by hand. If it takes off running, then it's a bad capacitor.
First, with power iff....
You can make sure it free wheels, if it's locked up then you need new motor. Also grab the shaft and wiggle up/down left/right.....should be VERY little movement any direction.
Sounds like a bad cap to me, but I wasn't there with hands on it either.
Ill try that all that out. Thank you for the input.
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You have a variable speed motor with all the electronics built in, like you said. You would be WAY cheaper to get a standard replacement blower motor and simply rewire it. That may be a little complicated if you dont know how to read the schematics or how it all works. I HATE those type motors, very expensive and fail often(more often than basic motors). Oh well, sounds like your friend was right. You can change all the electronics, but that may be more than the motor costs :(
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The cap is inside, here is a pic from the net.
www.amazon.com/Genteq-Evergreen-Replacement-Furnace-Module/dp/
(This particular one is not available, but you can prob find one). They aren't cheap either tho)
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If the motor/fan shook upon startup, you have bearings out in either the squirrel cage and /or the motor. Can you run the motor with out it being hooked to the fan? Does it run then? Can you wiggle the shaft on the motor side to side or in/out? Should be NO wiggle. If wiggle, bearings are shot. Can you wiggle the fan inside the housing? Should be NO wiggle.
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montanajoe: 30484293604507/comments/30484314999707
If the motor/fan shook upon startup, you have bearings out in either the squirrel cage and /or the motor. Can you run the motor with out it being hooked to the fan? Does it run then? Can you wiggle the shaft on the motor side to side or in/out? Should be NO wiggle. If wiggle, bearings are shot. Can you wiggle the fan inside the housing? Should be NO wiggle.
Ill check that as well. When I dries up enough to get into it.
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CaneyRiverDog: 30484293604507/comments/30484301046171
https://forums.gunbroker.com/discussion/comment/11334369#Comment_11334369
No Im not, just going by the word of a friend that dabbles in the field. when we took the cover off the hamster wheel blower fan just rocked back and forth and hummed real loud. He took the multimeter to a few leads and deemed it was the motor.
Bearings are bad. It will run until it gets too hot and then shut off. Needs to be replaced. Call Rheem for replacement compatibility.
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Another vote for Supply House here. Especially for better price. Plus they'll discuss compatibility over the phone.
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Dang!!!!!.......I should have kept my trap shut!!!
At 2:30 yesterday afternoon the cooling mode of my geothermal heat pump started blowing warm air.
After a 2 hour wait the emergency service guy said it might be Monday morning before he could get here. It was supposed to reach 85 to 90 degrees today.
Momma would NOT be happy!!
Long story short....late Saturday.....after replacing BOTH the compressor run capacitor(open) AND main contactor(bad contacts welding/pitting)........all is well. VERY glad I started keeping spares..........especially these "supply chain" days.
BTW.........it was NOT cool in my attic!!
What do they say about Karma???? It's a ..... , especially on weekends!!!!
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ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS keep spare contactors and capacitors ON HAND. They are cheap and have a forever shelf life. For some reason, once the original capacitor goes bad....then it will go out every year or two there after!
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mike55: 30484293604507/comments/30484307307035
The cap is inside, here is a pic from the net.
https://us.v-cdn.net/6031683/uploads/JSNSTYNPBQU7/screenshot-20220402-171508.png
www.amazon.com/Genteq-Evergreen-Replacement-Furnace-Module/dp/
(This particular one is not available, but you can prob find one). They aren't cheap either tho)
Over the years....I've had a few of those type "end caps" apart.
Usually most problems delt with the plug-in connectors(both plugs and receptacles). There was also some circuit board solder "ring cracking".......and, of course, bad capacitors.
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Well, what's the word? Is it fixed? What did it wind up being? @CaneyRiverDog
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I hate those ecm motors. PITA!! Had quite a few go bad over the last few years. Rheem will give you the right motor specs. Call them or a local supply house. You can also try Griangers. Be careful taking the "Squirrel cage" off. Also make sure you get the right size shaft on the new motor. Use a wheel puller and some WD 40 to remove the cage if it is old. If you need any guidance, call me at 856 725-0690. I can walk you through it. Oak.
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