INLETTING RIFLE BARREL INTO A WOOD GUNSTOCK, user friendly
Stumbled across a method that saves lots of time and user friendly when inletting rifle barrels into wood stocks so as to get a close proper contour and float the barrel if desired.
I glass bed rifle stocks and float the barrels and in past had to be careful sanding and scraping the wood to get a good precise free float fit.
I needed to do 4 nice Winchester wood stocks and one was a Super grade and the previous barrel channels were not of proper contour for the new receiver barrels.
I had some old Remington and Winchester take off barrels and when I checked them with dial caliper some were same contour as the ones that needed inletting.
I took the old take off 7mm and 30 cal barrel and cut them to length cutting off the muzzle end so as to be more mangeable in the hand drill and then tapped the muzzle end for a 3/8 stud so I could use my vari-speed drill's chuck to slow spin the barrels. I installed the 3/8 stud and locked it in place. I then cleaned the barrel good and carefully spiral wrapped the barrels with Automotive body shop type Sticky back sandpaper (has glue on the back from a roll) using 80 and 100 grit. This is the thinner sticky backed paper about 2 inches wide and I trimmed the width to approximately 1 inch wide so as to get a smooth wrap onto the barrel contour, no wrinkles. You can also get the adhesive and use wet/dry or regular sandpaper sheets. Installed masking tape at the upper portions of the barrel channel for scratch protection and then carefully slow spun the sandpapered barrel in the wood barrel channel. Very easy to control using the battery operated variable speed drill and also eliminates lots of trial and error fitting for barrel contour and floating. took about 20 minutes from the time I started spinning the barrel in the channel to do one..
Got about .008-.012 contoured barrel float. Not even noticeable that the barrel is floating after the receiver is glass bedded.
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Interesting / innovative procedure, Thanks.
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Great idea, thanks for sharing. Yes hand floating a barrel is very tedious, boring and time consuming to do a nice job. As least to me it is.
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Great idea, thanks for sharing. Maybe you could do a video with Larry.....
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toad67: 30446805793691/comments/30446761646619
Great idea, thanks for sharing. Maybe you could do a video with Larry.....
I suspect Ole Larry if he sees this redneck idea will come out with a midway kit for doing such using a MADE IN CHINA type barrel inletting kit.
I'm just old school redneck country boy and one of the last of the Mohicans, never done facebrag , my cell fone is only for use in case of emergency when I'm out hunting in the deep woods, cell phone IS NOT turned on to receive incoming calls, don't text or even care about knowing how, cell phone was $10 per month prepay last year but had to up-grade few months ago to $18 month because my fone was being phased out. (and verizon sucks big air)
Beam me up Scotty,
Cannot find any intelligent life down here on this planet EARTH now days.
Planet Earth is being taken over by Democrats.
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I have always just used a barrel bedding tool from, Gunline Tools, can use two hands. Interesting idea though. Does the barrel tend to walk any at the chamber end?
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waltermoe: 30446805793691/comments/30446801654427
I have always just used a barrel bedding tool from, Gunline Tools, can use two hands. Interesting idea though. Does the barrel tend to walk any at the chamber end?
I've always used the barrel bedding tools also from gunline and others, some homemade.
You asked: Does the barrel tend to walk any at the chamber end?
I had that walking or trying to crawl in the direction of the spin also was why I first started a practice run on a old beater take off stock.
I left a bare metal spot (no sandpaper) at the chamber end of the barrel so as I could hold that end gently and the weight of the barrel itself and the slow spin sanding and by holding the muzzle end out of the wood until the chamber end first started settling then lower the muzzle end into the wood. I had thought about adding a short stub of wooden dowel or metal stud into the chamber end so as to use more fingers for holding but found it not necessary. The weight of the steel barrel also helped.
The trying to crawl the same direction of rotation was very minimal.
During the final sanding inletting and inletting if I seen a spot or section of wood that was touching (needing little more inletting relief) using the receiver's barreled action when testing the relief on one side of the barrel using one sheet of paper as a float gauge as a test for floating I took a permanent marks a lot pen and colored the wood inside the barrel channel as a witness mark at the place where little more wood needed removed and gently held the slow spin barrel in that direction until the colored withness mark was sanded away or got lighter in color. I did not even have to use any of my barrel inletting scraping tools during the finals. Using the marks a lot pen as a witness mark and coloring the wood alowed me to apply finger pressure in that direction to the slow spinning barrel and see the witness color mark results of material being removed
As the SLOW SPINNING barrel settled into the wood full length of the barrel when the inletting became more precise and matching the contour the full length of the barrel I would feel a little bit of chatter or more rotation tension start to take place and I could just slightly remove tension/pressure by tilting either end of the spinning barrel, usually using slightly less downward pressure at the drill/muzzle end so as to reduce the rotation tension or chatter.
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