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TNW Aero carbine, 16" barrel, 10mm caliber.

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3 comments

  • bambihunter

    Remember that your bore and your optics do not share the same plane. In order for them to intersect at some point, they have to angle towards each other. In your case, to be zeroed at 25 yards, the scope is aimed "downwards" a fair angle to make that intersect happen at that distance. As a result, the projectile will still be rising. My guess is it will still be rising out to probably just under 100 yards just guessing on the height above the bore the optic is mounted and the ballistic of the 180 grain 10mm (which can vary wildly depending on whether it is a true 10mm load, or a lite load). After that, it will then start falling in its parabolic arc.

    A lot of hunters use "point blank zero". Rather than reinvent the wheel, I just found a site real quick with some illustrations that better explain than I likely could. The first graphic is what I was describing above and at the bottom of the page it talks about point blank zero.

    https://www.everydaymarksman.co/marksmanship/point-blank-zero/

    3
  • CS8161

    Thanks for the info! Makes sense! I am going to check out the link you sent.

    0
  • Mobuck


    "Remember that your bore and your optics do not share the same plane."

    ^^^CORRECT^^^

    When boresiting an AR type firearm @ 25 yards, I adjust the crosshairs/dot about the same distance above the laser dot as the optic is above the boreline. This is the starting point. You need to decide where it's best to have the actual 'zero'.

    For something like the 10mm, maybe it can work with a 100 yard zero. A 9mm might be happier with a 50 yard zero.

    The 'up close' offset really isn't an issue unless you're shooting rabbits. My AR9 PDW dot optic is dead on @ 50 yards and hits at the bottom of the 4-6(?) MOA dot @ 100 yards. This provides assurance that out to 100 yards, all hits will be within the coverage of the dot.

    3

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