Collector question: how much if any patina may be removed
What if there was a US military firearm from the last century which had been maintained with a little too much linseed oil and had rusted lightly? How much patina may be removed before it's a travesty against history and collecting? What if there is dried linseed oil on the barrel and action? I'd like to remove it and remove the "proud" rust with an oiled piece of crumpled aluminum foil.
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Wait, an actual gun question from @SoreShoulder without some off the wall weird conspiracy theory... what in the world is going on???
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Be careful how you answer...
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Lacquer thinner for the linseed oil and a brass or stainless brush with a light oil on the rust. Bob
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Ballistol on the wood, Kroil on the metal. Burlap bag is just about right, in terms of abrasiveness.
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Ruger4me: 30429990586395/comments/
Wait, an actual gun question from @SoreShoulder without some off the wall weird conspiracy theory... what in the world is going on???
I have moved my rants to another forum. I don't think we're allowed to promote other forums on here so I won't say what it is.
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Dried linseed oil on metal is easy to remove and won't impact any real patina. Use an effective solvent and do not scrub with steel wool. Oh, and remove the wood first.
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Linseed is for wood, not metal. Remove metal from wood, If you have actual rust, get a Chore-boy COPPER pot cleaner. Not steel, not copper plated. Wet it with light oil, scrub until arm falls off. Change hands, get clean cloth (and yes, burlap works very well) Wet with light oil, scrub until you get the coppery color off that you just put there.
Minimal damage to bluing or Parkerizing.
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chme: 30429990586395/comments/
Linseed is for wood, not metal. Remove metal from wood, If you have actual rust, get a Chore-boy COPPER pot cleaner. Not steel, not copper plated. Wet it with light oil, scrub until arm falls off. Change hands, get clean cloth (and yes, burlap works very well) Wet with light oil, scrub until you get the coppery color off that you just put there.
Minimal damage to bluing or Parkerizing.
The M1 manual says to wipe down the stock lightly every year with linseed oil. There may have been similar instructions for these guns and they may have gone overboard with how much oil to apply. The action is full of solidified oil and I'm sure it's not cosmoline. There's rust spots that feel rough under the fingers and will probably leave light pits.
I was mostly trying to ask whether removing rust spots or linseed oil someone applied years ago would be considered removing the patina but thanks for the help everyone.
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I always was taught that depending how old and how valuable, it's best not to touch it. If not that old or valuable you have good advice here. I have about a dozen pistols from the 1800's. Some are not worth much and I have cleaned them up as recomended or even by more severe methods. Others I haven't touched other than wiping clean and keeping them in a warm and dry place. I and others would like to see your pictures.
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