Woodworker Question
I want to glue together (face to face) 2 pieces of 1 x 8 unfinished new oak shelving about 10" long. Is Elmer's carpenter's glue OK? Should I apply glue to one or both sides? Should I use a toothed trowel to spread it? I plan on many clamps. Any thoughts guys?
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You should be OK with using Elmers Carpenter glue if that is what you have on hand. I have been using Titebond III in recent years with very good results. You should leave the two wood surfaces that are to be matched together rough and not sanded smooth for the very best adherence. Application to one side liberally using your toothed trowel to get it covered well will be enough and when you clamp them together, the excess (which will be a lot) should be wiped off quickly around the edges. You will have to wipe a few times, as the glue will seep out a bit more as time passes.
I have used the Elmers in the past and it is very good glue. It makes a glued joint stronger than a solid piece of wood if it is clamped well following application directions. I like the Titebond for its similar qualities plus its designed for all weather, indoor\outdoor uses.
Good luck Jeff with your project!
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If you want it to NEVER come apart.........just use good ol' Brownell's Acra-Glas epoxy.
Just a thought for ya......🤔
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the above............or gorilla glue
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I use Titebond III almost exclusively. Lay the boards out side by side and then apply it to one board. Use a very short napped paint roller and roll it out evenly on both boards, transferring it via the roller to the board you didn't apply it to. Now clamp the snot out of it. I like to let things sit for 24 hours before I do anything with it. I don't worry much about the squeeze-out as I have a hand held power plane or a bench top jointer that I use to clean up the edge.
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I agree with the comments, I use an old paint brush to spread the glue. Elmers will do the job.
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I agree with the above folks who said either Tite Bond or Elmers. Apply it evenly but sparingly , clamp the boards together firmly. Any squeeze-out can be removed with a damp rag while still wet. Let cure for 24 hours. The wood fibers around the joint will fail before that glue-up does.
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Gorilla Glue.
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You'll be alright with that glue. I use a plastic credit card to spread glue. As you're clamping, make sure your pieces stay square to each other if that's important.
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Another recommendation for Titebond. (Red bottle is waterproof, Blue is not.)
Repaired a cracked 1897 Win. forend with the Red. Came out perfect.
Used it extensively in Construction/Carpentry up North. Very good stuff.
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It might be overkill, but a dowel joint would be stronger.
Sorry, I missed face to face.
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Just one more bit of Titebond trivia. My 3\4 full bottle was left out in my unheated shop this winter. When I needed some for a very small project, it FAILED me. It must have froze and then thawed so I didn't notice. If it ever freezes, it is JUNK.
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I use titebond III for all my wood gluing projects. Anything from the furniture I make, to my turkey calls.
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All the above is good advice, but for a project like that, I shun clamps and just use heavy objects as they will continue to apply even pressure as the glue moves out of the joint and into the wood.
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Ya-Just use some weights. Might want to use a slower set glue.
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I go with @NeoBlackdog advice,,
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Mr. Perfect: 30339455589403/comments/30339560713243
All the above is good advice, but for a project like that, I shun clamps and just use heavy objects as they will continue to apply even pressure as the glue moves out of the joint and into the wood.
Second the weight.
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Thanks for all the comments. I didn't think about roughing up the mating surface with some maybe 60 grit paper. The spreading a thin layer of glue w/ a roller sounds good. I happen to have a 4"x 8"x 8" piece of .178 wall steel tube which is 10#. That looks like a better way to clamp. I could always add a gallon can of paint to it for more weight. Does all this sound reasonable? What I'm doing is making oak boxes w/ hinged lids to store my taps, dies, step blocks, parallel bars, and 1-2-3- blocks rather than have them in drawers in a tool box. I don't have much to do during the winter so I modeled everything w/ SolidWorks and made shop prints. Thanks again guys.
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10 lbs seems pretty light.
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I wondered about the 10# weight. I also have a 45# block of cement that I can add. It's a convenient size. My boards are 5.5" x 8" and 7.5" x 12". I would hope that 55# of weight would be good. If not, I'll need to go with clamps.
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use both the weights and the clamps.
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Clamp it.
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Clamps
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Some glues work better if the wood is dampened first. Should be mentioned in directions if that's the case.
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Ya know, I got to thinkin' (usually not a good situation!) and for something as small as that and made of a strong wood like oak you could always park a car on it. Seriously! Glue the boards up, wrap 'em up in an old towel to protect 'em and then drive one tire of your lightest car up on top of 'em.
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NeoBlackdog: 30339455589403/comments/30339606396955
Ya know, I got to thinkin' (usually not a good situation!) and for something as small as that and made of a strong wood like oak you could always park a car on it. Seriously! Glue the boards up, wrap 'em up in an old towel to protect 'em and then drive one tire of your lightest car up on top of 'em.
I was gonna say that, but figured you all would think I was screwing with him........
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NeoBlackdog: 30339455589403/comments/30339606396955
Ya know, I got to thinkin' (usually not a good situation!) and for something as small as that and made of a strong wood like oak you could always park a car on it. Seriously! Glue the boards up, wrap 'em up in an old towel to protect 'em and then drive one tire of your lightest car up on top of 'em.
A bit of over-kill with that one Neo. IMO, you'd have to jack the car up and then drop it down upon the wood. If you just drive over it, pretty sure the two pieces would slide apart some. Never tried it, so just thinking like a nuclear physicist. 😁
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Good grief, that what clamps are made for.
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Brookwood: 30339455589403/comments/30339642048923
https://forums.gunbroker.com/discussion/comment/11387165#Comment_11387165
A bit of over-kill with that one Neo. IMO, you'd have to jack the car up and then drop it down upon the wood. If you just drive over it, pretty sure the two pieces would slide apart some. Never tried it, so just thinking like a nuclear physicist. 😁
Had the same thought, but if you had another piece about the same thickness you could just drive up on that first and then roll right onto the one you want to glue. Don't turn the wheel!
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I thought this was simple but nothing is simple for me anymore. My last idea: I have a hydralic press in the shop. It came w/ 2-6"x6" steel plates 1" thick that lay on the horizontal beams. What about laying the boards on those plates then putting my 4x8 steel tube on top. I would have the entire wood surfaces full covered and could press as hard as I want. If this doesn't sound reasonable I'll just buy 3 wooden screw clamps. I only have c-clamps and spring clamps. Your thoughts guys?
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cbxjeff: 30339455589403/comments/30339668989467
I thought this was simple but nothing is simple for me anymore. My last idea: I have a hydralic press in the shop. It came w/ 2-6"x6" steel plates 1" thick that lay on the horizontal beams. What about laying the boards on those plates then putting my 4x8 steel tube on top. I would have the entire wood surfaces full covered and could press as hard as I want. If this doesn't sound reasonable I'll just buy 3 wooden screw clamps. I only have c-clamps and spring clamps. Your thoughts guys?
If it'll keep constant pressure then do that. That should work just fine. Like I said above, let it sit for a day before fiddlin' with it.
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