Construction question
I have a 10'x16' concrete slab that has settled and cracked. What price range should the job be in? Remove slab (no wire or rebar), form in up, haul in sand, compact, level and replace two yards of concrete with 4000 mix? No special finish on the concrete. The location is easy to get to so they could pour the job right from the truck.
-
Hopefully the new slab will be reinforced
0 -
Use steel and wire in the next one or you'll face the same problem next time.
0 -
You're probably looking at around 1600 to 2000 bucks plus the cost of removal. What is the slab used for? If you park anything on it make sure it's got steel in it. If it was me I'd go the extra inch and pour it 6" rather than 4".
6 -
All the above plus don't pour it level. Give it a slope. Morons that poured our driveway, long before we got this place, poured it level. We live in the land of snow and salt and more salt. You ought to see what that does. There's two long tracks of small craters from the salt popping the concrete. Like it was hit with the round end of a ball peen hammer. And being level, the salt water just lays there until it's pushed away.
0 -
The new one will have wire in it. Just a back patio with three plastic lawn chairs and three fat buttts. Called the concrete plant and the 4000 mix will be $600 because of the minimum delivery charge. Six yards to not get the extra charge. I figure two guys could jackhammer it out in three hours. Many moons ago three of us broke out a 24x24 garage floor in five hours. Those moons and friends are history. I figure the job could be done in a day and comeback the next to pull the forms. Back in one of those moons I did lots of this stuff so I have a general idea of time but not present costs.
3 -
Like Neo said. There will probably be an up charge for only 2 yards. Depending what it's for, go bigger.
0 -
Wire or re-bar won't prevent cracking. At best it will 'limit' separation after the cracks.
I spent over $10K on a concrete floor in my new shop building. I watched the preparation and pouring carefully but Son kept telling me it would crack. HE WAS RIGHT. Even with fill tamping, reinforcement wire, and a good job of pouring/settling the concrete, there are several cracks-some extending full width of the 40' wide floor.
To say I'm unhappy is a huge understatement. I have ZERO confidence in any concrete slab or wall.
0 -
I would fix the crack and use the old slab. But I am cheap that way.
0 -
You cannot keep concrete from cracking, that's what it does. It turns grey and it cracks. What you can do is to control where it cracks by putting shallow cuts (control joints) in it after it has cured for a couple of days.
6 -
I was told to make sure the base is well set. Lots of drainage. Then set with good rebar. If slab is to big you need to make it in sections. Put expansion joints init.
0 -
NeoBlackdog: 29374317867163/comments/29374303067163
You cannot keep concrete from cracking, that's what it does. It turns grey and it cracks. What you can do is to control where it cracks by putting shallow cuts (control joints) in it after it has cured for a couple of days.
Here is what I know about concrete…
- It will always get hard
- It will always crack
- No one will steal it
😁
12 -
It's all in the base. Using a "fiber mesh" ready mix will help.
3 -
DEEREHART: 29374317867163/comments/29374287014043
https://forums.gunbroker.com/discussion/comment/11449975#Comment_11449975
Here is what I know about concrete…
- It will always get hard
- It will always crack
- No one will steal it
😁
Words to live by.
Should etch them words in stone ..er uh concrete3 -
asop: 29374317867163/comments/29374332540699
It's all in the base. Using a "fiber mesh" ready mix will help.
Fiber mesh is great with rebar ! If not a slick finish use the course fiber not the micro.
0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
14 comments